Topic: '78 750f engine removal.

[superchode]

greetings, all.  I've been reading this forum for a week or so and it looks to be an excellent resource with some serious member knowledge.

for my first request from the knowledgable ancients, i would like to know how exactly one extracts the engine from the frame of this thing. not a whole lot of clearance.

i was going through past posts and came across the option of tilting the bike on its side and pulling the frame away from the engine - which is interesting, but i'm not sure it would solve the clearance problems i was having on the weekend.

then i came across a post advising removal of the exhaust mount studs, which would allow the engine to be slid out comparitively easily - but i wasn't aware that they could be removed.

can anyone confirm that the exhaust mounting studs on the engine can indeed be removed and let me know how exactly they're attached to the engine (thereby revealing the secret to their removal)?

thanks.

[kghost]

There are two types.

The early K's have a spigot or a Short header tube if you will. It attaches with two (per spigot) phillips headed screws. Remove the screws and the spigot will come out along with two half round inserts.
On this type the exhaust mounts to the Spigot with a clamp.

Later types and some aftermarket exhausts mount on studs. The half round inserts are used but the exhaust itself bolts to the engine with a flange. The studs may be difficult to remove.

[MRieck]

I take the studs out for engine removal- it makes the process much easier. You can double nut the studs to take them off. Heat from a propane torch is necessary also. Use never seize on the studs when you replace them.

[superchode]

thanks for the quick responses.

what exactly does 'double nutting' mean? please describe that process - i really don't see how that engine's going to come out with the studs still in.

[kghost]

Put one nut on the stud. Put another nut on the stud. Tighten the two together (hold the inner one in place and tighten the outer one against it). You should then be able to turn on the inner nut to loosen the stud.

What in effect you are doing is using the outer nut as a stop nut. This allows the inner nut to seat against something so the rotational force is transmitted to the stud. Unscrewing it from the head. 

[superchode]

k, thanks. hopefully that goes smoothly and it'll be on to the rebuild.

[jtb]

After I removed the studs from my F2 engine by double nutting them, (sounds horrible) I saw a stud removing tool at Harbor Freight.  Don't know what they are, how they work, but might be worth a look.

John

[mcpuffett]

hi fellas i have used a stud removal tool the type that fits on a half inch ratchet very handy tool    mick.

[Terry in Australia]

It's doubtful that you'll get all the studs out with the engine in the frame, but it's not necessary, it'll come out with them in place.

Most Aussies just pick up the bike and shake the engine out on to a sheep or something else that's nice and soft, but for other countries you might need a couple of guys to do this, ha ha! Cheers, Terry.  

[Lumbee]

..hey super, welcome to the board.  I have a 78F also.  I would recommend getting a friend or two to help u remove the motor.  She's about 2 bills and as u have noted, its a tight fit.  I had somebody help me out the first few times.  The last time I did a removal and put back in the engine, my friends stopped answering there phones    so I did it by myself...took a little longer, and required the use of a car jack, and a milk crate...but I did it!

Oh, and about the studs...I don't think I would sweat it...I agree it will go out/in smoother with out them...chances are they will be a bear to remove.  I'v never removed mine...

[superchode]

wow. hats off to you guys. i had a buddy helping me and we couldn't get that thing to squeeze through.

seems like i could get the bolts clear or get the rear of the tranny clear, but not both - and i'd end up wedged at the conclusion of either method.

i had planned to walk away from it and give it another try with a clear head, but ended up not having a buddy to help me out at that point (the next day).

pulling some exhaust bolts definately tickles me as the easier route... but kudos to anyone who's managed to slip the engine assembly out with them still in.

[scondon]

      Hey 'Chode. All the advice so far has been good so I'm just throwin' my two cents in for moral support(haha). Having removed engines both with, and without studs I've found them equally difficult to position for removal. I found that a rolling floor jack is the best tool for rasing/lowering/tilting the engine to find that perfect window of clearance. It allows you to stop, look at all clearance points, and make minor adjustments without straining your back.

                One thing that hasn't been mentioned but should give you that extra 1/4 inch to play with is to remove the breather cover on top of your valve cover. Makes it a little easier to clear the rear engine mount( rear of the tranny ).
 
                The engine will come out without removing studs or breather cover so don't force/break anything in frustration (been there), if ya get stuck just step back, smoke a cig/drink a beer/pound some ice cream/walk the neighbors dog, whatever it takes to clear the head and renew your perspective. It's a puzzle so once you find the solution it seems simple. weeellllll....OK, simple-er

[Lumbee]

...hang in there super...to say removing the engine is nuaced is an understatment.  Like scon said, its a very small window of clearance...but its there.  Make sure ALL stuff is off...oil filter/oil tank...all that stuff, then start edeging it out nice and slow paying carful attention to what part of the engine is stopping you from removal.  Guess this is why I can't waint to build my chop...with 4" is stretch in the down tube getting the engine in and out should be a snap!!!   

[jotor]

FWIW--

I developed a technique for removing frozen studs from aluminum castings when I used to work on Corvairs.  Found that if I heated the casting around the stud REALLY HOT with a propane torch, then spritzed the area with WD40, it would often looen things up enough for removal.  You can tell if it was hot enough by the smoke filling the air.  I theorized that the combination of heat enhanced capillary action and the shock of rapid cooling did the trick.

I don't pull the exaust studs, though.

(After 20 years, I'm finally getting to the bottom of my BIG jar of anti-sieze.  I had to cut it in half so the brush would reach the bottom.)