Topic: bleeder bolt stuck

[Odge]

I have a problem with the bleeder bolt on my '74 CB750. I am trying to remove the bolt and my box wrench has been slipping around the bolt.    Before I go to town with a pair of vice grips, I was wondering if anybody had any better ideas. I  snapped one once on my old 550 and would like to avoid that hassle.

[Triffecpa]

I've tried a variety of things to free up a stuck bleeder valve and have never been successful.  Eventually you'll break the bleeder bolt off and then you're stuck.  I've tried penertrating oil, heating up the bolt and the caliper and a couple of other things.  I've then tried to drill out the broken bolt and not been successful with that one either.  So, I have a whole collection of half dead calipers in the garage.  If any one else has an answer to this dilema, I'd like to hear it.

My sympathies...

Tracy

[78 k550]

Where you useing a 12 point or 6 point? If not the 6 always try to use the 6 point before the 12. If you use craftsman just Tap a deep socket on it then break it free. If the socket gets damaged then just return it.
Big vise grips always work for me bleeders are cheap.

Paul

[bryanj]

Heat up the caliper, not the bolt, with a plumbers torch and spray WD 40 type stuff on whilst its not---YES it will smoke smoulder and maybe even flame a bit so have the water bucket just in case(but i never needed it). Do this a couple of times and then put the 6 sided socket of and try undoing

[snyquist53]

i find it easier just to save all the prep time and snap it off.  drill it out, retap it , clean the mess out and throw a new one in there.  your still gonna need to buy a new one and it's very rear that you can save a termally stripped bleeder

[Triffecpa]

snyquist53

Don't you have problems with the bottom of the hole when you drill it out?  The bleeder is supposed to fit into an angled hole at the bottom to seal it.  If I'm not mistaken, that angle isn't the same as a drill bit.  Do you tap it the same size or do you put in a heli-coil?

Tracy

[75750SS]

And replace it with a Speed Bleeder.

[super pasty white guy]

I've seen that the Speedbleeder folks will remove the old and put in a new bleeder for you if you send them the caliper.

dave

[dagersh]

+1 for the Speedbleeder

I had the same problem on my 550F.  I used heat on the claiper and ice on the bleeder screw with lots of PB Blaster at the threads.  After a few cycles of this, the bleeder was able to be unscrewed.  it just took some time and patience.

Good Luck.

Gersh

[wadarush]

I can't believe out of all the responses no one mentioned this simple method....
Get a hammer and whack it on the head a few times then give it a few slight taps on the sides where your wrench fits.  Don't mutilate the bleeder but hit it hard enough to "stretch the threads a little".... works wonders!

[TwoTired]

It's not just the threads that seize.  The bleeder valve and seat fuse together, too!  I drilled one out past the threads.  Still had to pry on the remains to break it loose.  Put your penetrating oil IN the bleeder hole, too!

Cheers,

[Odge]

Thanks for the ideas! I will try the heating method, and if that fails I will begin the calculated destruction method by drilling it out. Maybe I'll use anti-sieze stuff on the threads next time...

This forum is the best!

[mic-57]

I find the trick to loosening anythink threaded is to tap the wrench. Do not use even pressure!!! That will break it every time. Heat up the caliper, use your preference of penetrating oil and use a six sided socket or box wrench but instead of pushing steadily on the wrench tap the handle with a small hammer. Works for me