Topic: problem child (possible breakthrough)

[S-Dog]

Thanks for the input.

Here are the things I will bring up.

I will tell him that I looked everywhere on the internet but could not find anywhere that said it is ok for the bike to leak gas, EVEN with the petcock in the on position.

I then took it upon myself to figure out exactly where the gas was leaking from.  I found that one of the lines(that he put in) leaked and that the float bowl gasket was leaking in 1cyl carb.  That lead me to look at the spark plugs to see how they looked.  I noticed that they were black(not hot enough?) and cyl1 was wet also(too much gas).  Having looked at the spark plugs I also referenced the plugs themselves and noticed that you used plugs with resistors.  My bike requires plugs with no resistors and that may be part of the fuel burning problem.

After seeing that cyl 1 had a wet plug I took off the float bowl to see if there was anything going on with the float itself.  And sure enough it is sticking when the float is down(causing flooding in that carb?) THAT is the major leak problem.

Things I need addressed:

1) float pin fixed for smooth float operation
2) tubing fixed so it doesnt leak
3) replace spark plugs with correct D8EA in place of DR8EA
4) make sure the carb are in sync/tune after fixing sticky float in carb 1


How does all of that sound?

[S-Dog]

I agree... and will go about it in the best possible manner.  I just want the bike to be right...

[Raul CB750K1]

From my experience, the main problem with mechanics is that they have an hourly rate and as long as they work any given amount of time, they want to be paid. So they think customers shouldn't complain or try to get more things done for free, because if they have to put another hour in your vehicle, they want to get paid for it.
But the point is that they should understand customers don't pay them for working in their vehicles. They pay them for fixing their vehicles, and the amount to be paid equals the hourly rate multiplied by the number of hours the mechanic needs to fix the vehicle. If he doesn't fix the vehicle, then there is no pay, end of the story.

If we pay somebody for working in our vehicle but he doesn't fix it, I could pay somebody the same amount of money for just staring at my vehicle the same amount of time, and it wouldn't make any difference.


Raul

[Bodi]

Who said $700.00? Geez, I could make a living doing it for that price!
Fuel dripping is almost always float valves (when it isn't bowl gaskets). Most of us turn the petcock off when not riding, bits of dirt can lodge in the float valve and cause temporary leakage... gas is expensive and fires are very unpleasant. An inline fuel filter helps with those leaks a lot.
Installing carb kits is not a panacea for carb trouble. The parts are often not exactly right, especially the needle taper which can leave you with a weird mid-throttle mixture. The float valves are usually sub-OEM quality.
Anyway, this behavior is not normal. If your mechanic can't or won't fix it then you can do it yourself, and learn quite a bit as well . I know I did! Surging and backfire are often symptoms of lean mixture, do a plug chop at least and see if it's reasonably close to OK.

[S-Dog]

plug chop?

and I said $700 

[S-Dog]

I found what a plug chop is....

[SOHC4ever]

S-Dog,

For what it's worth, I'm pulling for you. I got taken to the cleaners by a local mech 2 summers ago for exactly the same reason you did: "I want to ride NOW!".

I still have nightmares about it. The upshot is that it lead me to this forum, and to the mechanical knowledge and inclination that keeps me riding and wrenching today.

I could wax poetic for ever about my relationship with my bike, it's easily as complex and tumultuous and rewarding as any relationship with a woman, but I'll spare you. You'll find out soon enough.

I'm glad you've got the right idea about communication. Make sure to come across clear, confident and good natured. There will be plenty of time (and resources) for counteractions later, if necessary. For now, this guy's still your friend.

[S-Dog]

HAHAHA... I forgot.. I am trying to get ahold of him today but it is a holiday.  RI is the only state in the union that still celebrates VJ(Victory Over Japan) Day.  Even Hawaii has stopped celebrating it.  Well I guess I will talk to him tomorrow.

[nickjtc]

Hmmmmm....this was an interesting thread. Is this a job for a Brimmer-style internet swat-team, or do we let the mechanic redeem him/herself?

Sad to say it but there are too many scammers out there who prey on the under-informed. But you are coaught between a rock and a hard place when there is only one 'expert' in town. Thank goodness for the internet and forums like this one...........said as I cast my eyes to heaven and thank my lucky stars that I have no issues with the carbs on Sophie.

[S-Dog]

If I knew an easy way to fix that carb I would do it myself.... Buying 4 plugs isnt a big deal either.... I just hate to see him get away with it.

[S-Dog]

I just got off the phone and I am bringing it in tomorrow morning.  He is going to fix it right away.  He said the he put in the resistor plug because the have mor energy and foul less... He also said that he can throw in regular plugs if I want him to.

We shall see what the outcome is.

[dusterdude]

what kind of bull#$%* is more energy,i got to admit ive never heard that one.

[S-Dog]

HEHE.... I think he meant stronger spark... but I think that is opposite from what I have read....

[dusterdude]

spark plugs are nothing more than a conduit for the spark to travel thru,one plug doesnt have more energy than another,now that being said,a non-resistor plug will allow more spark to travel thru it than a resistor plug will,however i dont think its really enough to matter in the grand scheme of things.

[TwoTired]

A resistor is named so, because it resists the flow of electricity.  While doing its job, it expends energy denying it from it's destinantion.

Adding resistance to the Spark circuit does require that the coils build to a larger voltage before it is sufficient to jump the spark gap.  But, that doesn't make the voltage AT the spark gap any larger.  In fact, the added inline resistance will only serve to reduce the current arcing the gap and deliver less power into the igniting fuel/air mixture.

Energy is voltage WITH current.

Resistor plugs are common with modern high energy ignitions, which your SOHC4 doesn't have.

Cheers,

[S-Dog]

I got the bike back on Wednesday.... and he said he fixed everything... The fuel lines do not leak now.... YIPPEE!! But there still seems to be a leak from the carbs even WITH shutting off the petcock....

it is not consistent.... and does not leak a whole lot... but it is waaaaay annoying and I know it is not right...

as a side note.... it feels like I am lacking power.... when I give it the goose(full throttle) it bogs like crazy then I let off a bit and it accelerates but not powerfully.  When the temperature outside cooled about 30 degrees and the air seemed a little thicker the engine ran much better...

I thin I am done with bringing my bike to the mechanic and will try to deal with these fantastic problems myself.

[S-Dog]

Thanks Doug ..... errr Daniel 

I have the Clymers and the honda shop manual...  I have an OK mechanical understanding, but the carbs... ahhh yes, my $700 rebuilt in a crappy fashion carbs.... scare the daylights out of me.

I really have no idea how the timing, valves, etc. are... I will probably end up haveing to spend some dough and buy the proper tools to check....

[S-Dog]

As for the carb leak... It is leaking from the gasket itself.... Now that I think about it...I am guessing the tube could be clogged and instead of draining out of the tube it is going through the gasket.

[S-Dog]

I just gapped my valves and they werent too bad... I decided to check out my jets and 3 out of the 4 jet were clogged up with crap.  The 2nd carbs float valve its all out of whack and the float does not go up and down.... I will have to yank the carbs it seems and see if he didnt just clean the bowls.... this is REALLY pissing me off... I need to find out what the stock jet sizes are... I have 112's in there....

[andy750]

For the k5 I believe they were 110s. You should just clean the jets first and then reinstall and see how it runs. Easy enough without taking the carbs off and having too much riding downtown (save that for end of Fall). If you do take the carbs off consider getting new airbox-carb rubber as it makes getting them back so much easier. For engine side use a hairdryer or some light silicon grease to help them on. make sure no air leaks!!

Good luck!
Andy (sweltering in Nagoya -home of Toyota, Japan).