Topic: Sloppy clutch lever on CB550

[cleveland]

I have gotten a new clutch cable for the bike due to the old one being sloppy.  It never sprung back all the way.  The new one seems to have the same problem.  It almost seems like there may be a spring or something missing.  The first half of the "squeeze" of the hand lever shows no resistance what-so-ever and it seems to just flop around.  The second half feels like I am barely catching the clutch and in some cases I wonder if it is catching at all.

The end of the cable that feeds into the clutch is unscrewed to almost it's farthest point, same with the end that feeds into the hand lever.  I have screwed then in farther and it makes the clutch harder to pull on the second half of the squeeze, but the first half is still sloppy.

I know 99% of the time it is operator error on my part.  Lots of screw ups, misread directions, and so on.  So please tell me what I am doing wrong.  If my description is not good enough, I'll take pics when I get home tonight.

Thanks guys!

[Gordon]

Clutch lever play has little to do with the cable itself, so a new one won't solve the problem (as you've already found out).  Your maintenance manual should have a section that describes the procedure for adjusting the clutch;  the clutch itself, not just the cable.  Follow that procedure and it should solve your excessive lever play problem.   

[bozo4onion]

I had the exact same problem. I got a new cable also. However my clutch was slipping too. Maxed out adjustment like you. When I tried to adjust the clutch with the lock nut and screw on the lower clutch cover (loosen lock nut on the cover and adjuster on the lifter to slacken the cable. Turn center adjusting screw clockwise til' it stops. Loosen 1/4 turn) I still couldn't make the marks on the lifter lever line up with the marks on the case. I'm now replacing all discs and springs. Do the marks on your lever and case line up. It appears to me the more clutch disc wear, the more difficult to line up the marks. Good luck.

[cleveland]

Clutch lever play has little to do with the cable itself, so a new one won't solve the problem (as you've already found out).  Your maintenance manual should have a section that describes the procedure for adjusting the clutch;  the clutch itself, not just the cable.  Follow that procedure and it should solve your excessive lever play problem.   

I will pull out the manual and read through the clutch section.  Frankly, it never occurred to me that the clutch it's self may be the issue.  Oh to joy. 

I had the exact same problem. I got a new cable also. However my clutch was slipping too. Maxed out adjustment like you. When I tried to adjust the clutch with the lock nut and screw on the lower clutch cover (loosen lock nut on the cover and adjuster on the lifter to slacken the cable. Turn center adjusting screw clockwise til' it stops. Loosen 1/4 turn) I still couldn't make the marks on the lifter lever line up with the marks on the case. I'm now replacing all discs and springs. Do the marks on your lever and case line up. It appears to me the more clutch disc wear, the more difficult to line up the marks. Good luck.

I don't know, I haven't looked at the clutch it's self.  I have to change the oil soon, and I do it then.

[Gordon]

I will pull out the manual and read through the clutch section.  Frankly, it never occurred to me that the clutch it's self may be the issue.  Oh to joy. 

Not to worry.  It's not a difficult procedure and should only take about 15 minutes, if not less. 

[bozo4onion]

My first clutch. I noticed my clutch wears in the direction of loosening the cable (thickening the pack will move the lever in a tightening direction and line up the marks on the case) and when measuring my discs all 7 are about 2.4mm or so. Clymer says <3=bad. Big Duh to some I'm sure but don't flame me here I said it's my first (motorcycle) clutch. Parts on the way $97 from hondaparts-direct incl. gasket, springs, case screws and discs.

[vames]

I don't know, I haven't looked at the clutch it's self.  I have to change the oil soon, and I do it then.

You won't need to drain oil or actually open up the case to get to the clutch adjustment. They're different on different bikes so check your manual, but it basically involves adjusting the actuator so that it sits snug against the actuator rod. (not sure about the 550 but there will probably be a procedure such as "loosen the locknut, turn the screw until it's snug, back off 1/4 turn, tighten locknut"

[cleveland]

I don't know, I haven't looked at the clutch it's self.  I have to change the oil soon, and I do it then.

You won't need to drain oil or actually open up the case to get to the clutch adjustment. They're different on different bikes so check your manual, but it basically involves adjusting the actuator so that it sits snug against the actuator rod. (not sure about the 550 but there will probably be a procedure such as "loosen the locknut, turn the screw until it's snug, back off 1/4 turn, tighten locknut"

Oh, I think I know the part you are talking about.  It threaded with a slot for a flat head and sticks out of the clutch case.  It would be nice if it's that simple.

[Tower]

There is a spring attached to the Lower Clutch Lever.  That spring must have enough tension to bring the Handlebar Clutch Lever back to its free play position.  If its too weak, it should be replaced, or you can try snipping off a small piece and re-bending the end to fit - that will add extra tension to the spring.

Also, when adjusting the Clutch Adjusting Bolt, be sure to turn the bolt out several turns before turning it back in.  When turning it in, don't turn so far that the bolt stops - thats much too far.  Turn it in until you feel a resistance.  This resistance point is the point at which the Clutch Lifter Plate is beginning to disengage the Clutch disks.  From this position, turn back 1/4 turn and lock it in place.

[cleveland]

I adjusted the bolt and it solved MOST of the problem.  I will replace the spring once I do my tear town this winter.  Thanks guys!