Author Topic: Checking Valve Seals  (Read 1169 times)

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kaysystems

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Checking Valve Seals
« on: September 03, 2007, 12:12:04 PM »
There are a couple of threads at the moment about smoking.

As a sidenote. Has anyone figured out how to check the seals on a CB750 (or even if there are any) without taking the engine out?

I really don't want to pull the engine just to change the seals.

thanks

David

Offline mark

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Re: Checking Valve Seals
« Reply #1 on: September 03, 2007, 12:23:20 PM »
If the engine has never been apart, then it is safe to assume that those little rubber valve seals are at least 30 years old.

You could replace the rings and the rest of the engine seals while it is apart.

Cheers.

Mark
1976 CB550K, 1973 CB350G, 1964 C100

F you mark...... F you.

kaysystems

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Re: Checking Valve Seals
« Reply #2 on: September 03, 2007, 12:27:28 PM »
If the engine has never been apart, then it is safe to assume that those little rubber valve seals are at least 30 years old.

You could replace the rings and the rest of the engine seals while it is apart.

Cheers.

Mark

It was apart last winter & I had a valve job & rebore done. I assumed that everything was good, so didn't check. Now it smokes & drips oil from the exhausr joints. I'm wondering if they forgot to install the seals.

David

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Re: Checking Valve Seals
« Reply #3 on: September 03, 2007, 12:57:59 PM »
If the engine has never been apart, then it is safe to assume that those little rubber valve seals are at least 30 years old.

You could replace the rings and the rest of the engine seals while it is apart.

Cheers.

Mark

It was apart last winter & I had a valve job & rebore done. I assumed that everything was good, so didn't check. Now it smokes & drips oil from the exhausr joints. I'm wondering if they forgot to install the seals.

David

   In order to check/replace the valve seals you need to remove the keepers, retainers, and springs. Joeb was able to do this, without removing the head, by using an air compressor threaded into the spark plug hole which kept the valves seated. A spring compressor that grabs the spring while pushing down on the retainer was used. Don't see how it would be possible without removing the engine and valve cover though. Plus side is that you only need to remove the cam and rockers and have a new valve cover gasket handy, although in your case you might want to remove the towers and retorque the head.

   I'm on my 4th engine build and still am learning the ins and outs of how to get it all back together without leaks developing over time. My 3rd engine lasted 18,000 miles before the leak at the exhaust joint began spitting out onto the header on startup(oil feeds). Torqueing down the head and letting it sit overnight before retorquing to max spec, some good sealant around the oil feeds(careful) and liberally applied to the cam tower pucks, along with laborious cleaning of the mating surfaces has #4 engine at 3500 miles without even a weep up top. All stuff I learned here :)

kaysystems, did ya go with oversize stock pistons or 836 on your rebore?
Give me..a frame to build a bike on, and my imagination will build upon that frame

kaysystems

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Re: Checking Valve Seals
« Reply #4 on: September 03, 2007, 02:08:46 PM »
I went with +.5mm pistons. I decided not to go with a big bore kit as I figured I would have enough fun getting it to run anyway - it sat for 20 years after a non-mechanical person tried to fix it.

David