Mine is set to 10,500 and I've heard it hit several times. The front is usually just touched from it's defiance of gravity in the lower two gears. A ported head makes all of this possible. The rods just allow it to live afterwards..
My Dyna 2000's minimum rpm is 8,500 and in 500 rpm increments. I picked the 10,500 after getting a seat of the pants feel for where the meat was in the power band. My seat tells me that I'm at peak torque around 8,500 and peak horsepower at just below 10,000. I came to this using the front wheel as a guide. The bike will start lofting the front (power wheelie) in 2nd starting at 8,000 and drops it as the needle hits the 10,000 mark. Since the wheel is reacting to the twisting force of the engine, I gather that the torque drops off fairly quick at the 9,500 + mark. With that, I left a little room for revs and selected 10,500 as the maximum required/desired.
Art, your cam is longer in duration, your head ports larger, and you have the CR31's. My guess is that you're going to need at least 500 more rpm - perhaps 11,000 to get the most. I would expect yours to make it's peak torque rating in the 9,000 range and it's peak hoespower in the 10,500 range. You'll definitely want the revs to fall "above" peak torque as you make each gear change for maximum forward gains. I would also expect every trip past 9,000 to be a rear-wheel only experience in first and second.
It is an odd concept - a CB750 pulling so hard that it will lift the tire upon hitting a particular rpm - but for those who have ridden the newer R6, R1, Gixers, Hondas, and Kaws - this is nothing. It's a lot more fun on an old 500 lb Honda! though and will give you some idea of the personality difference a build like Mike's accomplishes. It turns a nice bike into one that's still very nice, but with all of the attitude you want to dial-up wih the right wrist.
Gordon
