Topic: Battery fixed electrical problem - Bike is running like crud

[turin39789]

You need this plug wrench, available at most MC shops.  The hex is 18mm but sometimes the dealer may refer to it as a 12mm, which is the thread diameter of the plug.

Thanks, I ended up going in real careful with a deep well 18mm socket that I had.

Be careful that you don't cross thread number three spark plug while using a straight walled socket.  Or, your current problems will seem small.

Flash touched the pipes after a run around the neighborhood.  The two outside pipes were both hot hot hot, the two inside were warm, but I could leave my hand on them for a few seconds without searing it.

This information conflicts with the spark plug pictures showing 3&4 dark.  The outside pipes are 1&4, and share a common ignition circuit. This would focus efforts down that path.  3&4 share a common fuel delivery circuit.  Provided the cylinders are sparking correctly, restorative efforts would focus on carburation/ fuel.

The Hex nut on the crankshaft is made of soft metal and has key slots behind it.  Be careful not to put too much torque on it or it will sheer off.

I still think you need to do a full tuneup.

Cheers,

I'm working my way down the list you posted.

Oil and filter just got changed, now its onto spark plugs and contact points.  I think one issue for me is sourcing replacement parts.  The closest Honda dealer is a town over.  I want to try replacing all of my fuel lines when I get to that step, but i still need to call and see if anyone has the right size.  I'm going to try pulling the stock airbox off my parts bike and squeezing it back on to replace my K & N pod, but where do I get more filter elements?  Should I be able to get new plugs at a local store or should I just order them. 


The spark plug pictures above are not all 4, just the first two from left to right, (so 1 and 3?)  two pictures of the outside plug, followed by 2 pictures of the inside plg next to it.  Not going to be getting home tonight until 11, so I probably won't be able to provide a meaningful update until sunday.

[TwoTired]

As you might discern, the spark plug deposits can tell a lot about run issues and where to look for problems.  Two spark plug examples only tell half the story, and very little about the ending of the story.

I'm going to try pulling the stock airbox off my parts bike and squeezing it back on to replace my K & N pod, but where do I get more filter elements?  Should I be able to get new plugs at a local store or should I just order them.

Get a Uni - NU 4055 replacement element along with the filter oil and cleaner for the stock airbox.  If you can't find it locally order it online or mail order.  I don't think the air filter is the source of your current power loss problem, though. Possibly a contributor, but facts not in evidence.
The Honda dealer should have the correct spark plugs.  Call ahead.  There is no way for me to know what your local outlets have for parts availability, wherever that is.

Cheers,

[turin39789]

Thanks for the help. Unfortunately I decided to charge ahead without direction again.  I came home on friday after a 13 hr day and wanted to play some.  She didnt want to start, so I decided to go ahead and give up on riding for a little while and figured out how quick and painless pulling the tank was.  Not sure how I was supposed to drain it but I pulled it full with the petcock off, then trained through the petcock into a few gas cans.  That done, pulling the carbs suddenly seemed like a good idea.  Thankfully Clymers has a wonderful procedure laid out (pull tank, loosen clamps, slide the carbs out).  Pretty sure I lost my drain tubes in the process, need to check to see if I took out any of the rubber boots, I checked the forum real quick in the middle of the process and it seemed like pulling them can be a pain and some brute force and ignorance is required.  Still, the method I used can't be the right one.  I picked up some new spark plugs, still need to locate the proper wrench.  I'm going to go outside in a bit and take a peek at the bowls.  I ordered a gasket set(not sure what all it includes to be honest) from bikebandit that shipped on saturday.  But otherwise I don't want to actually rebuild them so it will probably be more of opening them up, using some carb cleaners spray, closing them up and attempting to reassemble. 

[Tower]

@turin39789, please don' take this the wrong way, no offense, but you seem to be all over the map when it comes to diagnosing and working on your bike.

A little organization will go a long way.  You seem like a well educated guy.  See for yourself what a big difference a little bit of structure will provide.  Try this...after writing your post, but before submitting, organize your post into discreet ideas (paragraphs) and a logical sequence of steps (sentences).  You should see how many items you are trying to tackle at once.  Again, please don't take this in any other way than a suggestion for some orderly diagnostics.

Then tackle one, at most two, items on your list - only!  Then move to the next item.

My own suggestion is to concentrate on the fuel system, as its looking like that's where the biggest problem rests.  Regardless, fuel or electrical - just stick to one item at a time and you'll get through it faster and with more certainty.

Hope this helps.

[turin39789]

@turin39789, please don' take this the wrong way, no offense, but you seem to be all over the map when it comes to diagnosing and working on your bike.

A little organization will go a long way.  You seem like a well educated guy.  See for yourself what a big difference a little bit of structure will provide.  Try this...after writing your post, but before submitting, organize your post into discreet ideas (paragraphs) and a logical sequence of steps (sentences).  You should see how many items you are trying to tackle at once.  Again, please don't take this in any other way than a suggestion for some orderly diagnostics.

Then tackle one, at most two, items on your list - only!  Then move to the next item.

My own suggestion is to concentrate on the fuel system, as its looking like that's where the biggest problem rests.  Regardless, fuel or electrical - just stick to one item at a time and you'll get through it faster and with more certainty.

Hope this helps.

I definetly didn't take it the wrong way, and I was all over the place.  I felt like I needed to be doing something and just started working instead of thinking.  I really wish I had just changed and gapped some new plugs before moving on to the fuel system. 

Right now I have the carbs off, and I'd like to find new fuel hose of the right diameter before putting them back on, as well as inspecting and possibly replacing the boots intake boots that they hook up to.

 I was getting a lot of fuel leakage from the bottom of the bowls(probably should have just drained them while on the bike) so right now I'm thinking that I should try rebuilding and cleaning the carbs, or at least replacing the gaskets and checking the float levels while it is off. 

The problem is that I don't have much confidence in my ability to do this, as I botched a carb rebuild on a weber 40 idf for my VW and ended up with extra parts and a leaky carb.  This has left me with an intense distrust of my hands inside of carburetors, so I'm also thinking about trying to just get the carb back on as is and doing the plugs and seeing where I am. 

I've looked at the faq for rebuilding the 750 carbs.  I had already ordered a new gasket set (part # 3839491-001 ) from bike bandit that should be here any day, I could probably use a full rebuild kit, but again I'm just not confident in doing it with just an internet walk through.  My next step at this point is to open up the float bowls and take some pictures, and try to find local sources for parts(fuel line, needle sets, float sets) so that I don't have to wait and order online after I figure out what I need.

I'm tempted to just start funneling money into new oem parts(new points and condensers, new plug wires, all new fuel hose, etc) to replace anything that is consumable that might be getting work out.  I already picked up a set of plugs.  But it seems that for troubleshooting purposes it will be better to do things one at a time to get it working and take my time.  If not I may end up making new problems and won't be able to isolate the changes.

[turin39789]

I need to get the pictures uploaded, but I definetly has some crud come out of the float bowls when I opened up the drain screws.  There seemed to be washers on at least 3 of the 4 screws that seemed deformed.  I was getting leaking through these screws when i parked the bike after a ride.

Looked at the bike and I think the boots should be fine so I can at least reinstall the carb when I'm done playing with it.  Right now I need to decide if I need to try taking the carbs apart and dipping them.