Got a request for info on how I did this, and it isn't rocket science but this could save a little thrashing.
This is the stand:
http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-engine-stand-69886.html
I did a few things to it - they furnish a cotter pin to hold the pivot handle through the pivot to hold it into the frame - I drilled it for a hitch pin with an R clip, much faster and easier to swap in and out. It also came bone dry, spend a few minutes and grease up the casters and all the pivot points. Other than that it is very sturdy, well balanced, and an outstanding value at $60 on sale.
To adapt it you will need to run down to Home Depot and get a few things:
4 feet or so of 3/8" threaded rod aka allthread.
A foot or so of the widest STEEL angle iron they have, to make the right-angle adapters
Some (4 each) 4 and 6 inch 3/8" hex bolts, matching fender washers, plain washers, and lock washers. Get extra washers and nuts, you may want them.
A couple of metal pipe nipples to use as spacers. Get 2 each of several lengths, as small as will fit over the allthread
Cut the angle iron into 3 inch lengths, and drill to allow the althread to pass through. Offset the holes as seen so you have access to both nuts. Make certain you space the hole far enough from the corner of the angle iron to fit the washers in.
Cut the allthread to width, 5 or so inches longer than the engine is wide.
Bolt the allthread and angle iron to the engine through the rear engine mount holes. Note the use of the pipe nipples as spacers where I needed them along with fender washers to keep it all straight.
Bolt that to the carrier. Tighten it all up.
Tilt the engine/carrier into the receiver on the stand itself (on it's back for the moment), pin the handle in place to lock it.
Squat it upright (with your LEGS man, your LEGS) , and don't hurt yourself.
Hope that's helpful to someone.
