Topic: Anyone using a shift light?

[blantonator]

I want to get rid of my gauges, but would still like to know when to shift.  A shift light, BRILLIANT!  Anyone running one or know how to implement one on a bikes setup with a mechanical tach.

[cleveland]

A shift light, BRILLIANT!

I've never seen one.  Is it a light that literally says "shift" once you have reached a certain RPM?

[750essess]

Dyna makes one but is rather expensive. http://www.dynoman.net/ignition/dynaShift.html

[my78k]

Wouldn't you need to convert to a Dyna or other ignition system first? I don't suppse there is anything that would work on a points type system...

Dennis

[smccloud]

look at a standard mechnical automotive tach with a shift light.  it might be possible to adapt it, but not really sure.

otherwise get a shift light that is designed to be independent of a tach and set it to 4 cylinder mode at twice the rpm you want or set it to 2 cylinder mode (at least i think that would work).

[paulages]

just curious-- where would the shift range be? i find it completely dependent on how and where i'm riding. redline maybe? 

[blantonator]

Essentially a shift light is a bright light that illuminates when you reach a certain RPM.  For instance I could have it illuminate at 9K RPMS.  It should work under the same principle as a electric tach (http://www.sohc4.us/forums/index.php?topic=21640.0)  which im still trying to figure out.  From my readings you can monitor RPMS off a coil.  A homemade one could be made very easily with a PIC microcontroller.

Anyone know the principles behind electric tachs running off a coiL

[blantonator]

something like this http://www.veypor.com/jsp/purchase.jsp?prodID=VSP1000-MTR

[dusterdude]

try msd

[750essess]

That gizmo is cool, but it will only pic up the signal not determine what rpm to turn on an output such as a light. here is one that is much cheaper. ttp://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2DG2945&N=700+115&autoview=sku

[blantonator]

Where is the coil located on our bikes?

also how does the coil work on a 2 vs. 4 cylinder bike.  If they unit is good for 12K rpms on a 4 cylinder... would that mean only 6k on a 2 cylinder or 24K?

[750essess]

under the tank, there are two of them. one for 1 and 4 and one for 2 and 3.

[tbone]

I use a shift alarm! When I hear the valves start to float I shift! 

[Gordon]

Where is the coil located on our bikes?

also how does the coil work on a 2 vs. 4 cylinder bike.  If they unit is good for 12K rpms on a 4 cylinder... would that mean only 6k on a 2 cylinder or 24K?

After reading this, my instinctive response is to say you need to learn a lot more about your bike before making any changes or modifications to it, and I mean absolutely no offense by that.  I just think you'll be a lot happier with it in the long run because when something does go wrong with it you'll have a better knowledge base to go off of, have a better idea of what has gone wrong, and you won't have to wonder if the problem is being caused by something you inadvertently did to it. 

[neil young]

i rarely look at my tach.i can hear the engine and i definitely know when shifting time is.unless your racing it i cant see  wasting the  cash

[blantonator]

Where is the coil located on our bikes?

also how does the coil work on a 2 vs. 4 cylinder bike.  If they unit is good for 12K rpms on a 4 cylinder... would that mean only 6k on a 2 cylinder or 24K?

After reading this, my instinctive response is to say you need to learn a lot more about your bike before making any changes or modifications to it, and I mean absolutely no offense by that.  I just think you'll be a lot happier with it in the long run because when something does go wrong with it you'll have a better knowledge base to go off of, have a better idea of what has gone wrong, and you won't have to wonder if the problem is being caused by something you inadvertently did to it. 

i hear ya, i definetly have a lot to learn, and thats why i'm here.

[mick750F]

Where is the coil located on our bikes?

also how does the coil work on a 2 vs. 4 cylinder bike.  If they unit is good for 12K rpms on a 4 cylinder... would that mean only 6k on a 2 cylinder or 24K?

After reading this, my instinctive response is to say you need to learn a lot more about your bike before making any changes or modifications to it, and I mean absolutely no offense by that.  I just think you'll be a lot happier with it in the long run because when something does go wrong with it you'll have a better knowledge base to go off of, have a better idea of what has gone wrong, and you won't have to wonder if the problem is being caused by something you inadvertently did to it. 

   Took the words right outta my mouth...

Mike

[jmckinne]

I not interested in a light to tell me when to shift, I listen to the engine for that. I would LOVE an indicator to tell me what gear I'm in though. Knowing when I'm in neutral is OK, but is a numeric indicator to much to ask for? When downshifting with the clutch held in - like coming up to a stop light - I'm always forgetting to count or losing count or counting wrong...whatever. I lose count when upshifting too. All of THAT presumes I remember what gear I was in when I started shifting too. If I was in 1st or 5th...maybe, otherwise not a chance.

It's one of the many thrilling things about getting old.

[Bob Wessner]

I sometimes get fuzzy about 4th vs. 5th in some siduations, which am I in? Conveniently on my K0, the tach and speedo sort of flip relational positions between the two gears, so that's my indicator.

[paulages]

i sometimes forget if i'm in 4th or 5th at highway speeds, but i just feel upward with my shift foot-- in 4th, there is tension sooner, indicating that i can shift again. if i'm already in 5th, it travels farther and feels different.

[jmckinne]

The 4th/5th thing is what bugs me the most too. Pulling in the clutch and "shifting" at highway speeds only to discover you were already in 5th - sigh. I'll have to try your tension sensing trick paulages.

[olds-cool]

It's nice to know I'm not the only one that can't remember if I shifted to 5th sometimes. 

[seaweb11]

My wife tells me when it's time to switch gears

I don't have any issues with the bike.

[snyquist53]

you could make a shift light out of a mechanical tach but the tach would have to be on the bike.  take the gauge apart and use the internals to establish a electrical connection though the needle at a certain point.  it could be adjusted by using a screw for the contact point for the needle.  one would have to build a hosing and a bracket.  good idea but a lot of work when you can just buy a electronic tach and light.  electronic tachs are smaller more accurate and would probably save you money and a headache in the long run

[jmckinne]

I'll have to try your tension sensing trick paulages.

Well DUH!

Tried paulages's trick and it works great wish I'd thought of that before - highly recommended! I tried it at the other end of the scale too - If your in 1st there is give, if you can downshift there isn't. Again, DUH.

Now we just need something for the 2nd vs 3rd vs 4th area and I'll be happy.

Paulages - beer is on me.

[jmckinne]

A homemade one could be made very easily with a PIC microcontroller.

BTW-blantonator sorry to hijack your thread into the "what gear am I in" discussion. I've got a couple technical suggestions for you to make up for it..

You mentioned the PIC so I assume you have some electronics/software background. I'm a software engineer and have alot of experience in device control/robotics so the mention of the PIC caught my eye. Here goes..

1) Buy a cheap bicycle odometer/tach setup. They use cheap optical sensors to count RPM's. Install on you front wheel, basically as for a bike. Cut off the included gauge/display and wire the output from the sensor into a PIC or OOPic port. Count the impulses and wire an output port to illuminate a bulb when you hit your target RPM. Remember we're talking wheel RPM not engine RPM here. Note the exhaust note when you are at your shifting RPM. Learn the relationship between wheel RPM and engine RPM at that poin. Learn to listen for that and shift, then toss this Rube Goldberg setup. Bear in mind the relationship between wheel and engine rpm will not be linear across gears, it will be a curve. That's the practical effect of your gear ratios

2) If you have loads of dough - and what software or EE guy doesn't  - buy a Dyna or other electronic ignition with a rev limiter in it. That won't tell you when to shift directly but it will prevent you from over revving the engine. Setup the rev limit at least 500 RPM before redline and learn what that sounds like. Then shift just before the rev limiter comes on. This approach rocks over a dedicated shift light in that after you learn where to shift you still have the benny of the electronic ignition, whereas with the Dyna shift light you have $250 bucks worth of dead weight.

Also "when to shift" is more than just a mechanical question. Take into consideration your environment and just how loud you want your bike's screaming mill to get before you shift. I'm not Speed Racer so I shift mostly for around town driving and I never get anywhere near redline before shifting. Keeping the bike turning in the 3-4K range where possible until you hit 5th is good in town advice I think. Wind it up higher if you want quicker accel but never exceed redline. If you're in a parking lot etc you'll find you can't always get it up to 3K. You'll notice the bike doesn't like that much either. Moving vehicles generally don't like driving in 1st gear at all, it's just to get you going. If you have to absolutely crawl ok, but usually get to 2nd at least. My SOHC seems happiest turning at 3K and above, but as long as it isn't "bucking back" from low revs you're ok down to around 2K.

You'll get the feel for it, don't waste to much time trying to solve this.