I've seen a few threads on this subject, both here and on the old site, so now that winter is approaching (at least it is here in the Northern Hemisphere), I though that I would gather the accumulated knowledge of the membership on this subject:
1. Oil and Oil Filter.You want to get rid of any acids in the oil before storage. Drain it when hot, refill with fresh oil and circulate the new oil with the kick start to flush the oil galleries and bearing surfaces. Do not run the engine to do this.
Since the engine breathes with temperature and barometric changes, humid air can enter the crankcase and condense on the internal walls during storage. When water meets organic oil, amino acids form.
When returning to service change the oil again.
2. Fuel TankFill the tank to keep the humid air from entering the tank through the vent and rusting the internal walls. If storage is for longer than 5-6 months, add a stabilizer (anti oxidant) so the fuel doesn't lose too much potency.
3. CarbsDrain them. The carbs are vented to atmosphere and fuel in the bowls will evaporate leaving a residue. A squirt of WD-40 into the bowls should keep them fluid and deter corrosion.
4. ChromeA squirt of WD40 wouldn't hurt, but a protective coating of wax would be easier to clean come Spring as it won't attract and hold dust. While oil or wax on the head pipes will deter corrosion, this also may cause the exhaust chrome to blue if not thoroughly removed before they heat again during run operation.
5. BatteryCheck electrolyte and use a battery tender. Or, remove from bike and put in cold non-freezing storage.
There appears to be some confusion around whether it is safe to set your battery down on concrete. It appears that this is an "urban myth" based on old-design batteries that could discharge or fail if stood on concrete. Modern batteries should be fine.
6. Tires / TyresAh, yes the rubber bits on the wheels...
Wax to keep from dry rot. (I wonder what that blue stuff is that the manufacturer puts on them at the factory for storage? It is water soluble, but keeps the rubber supple.) Block the bike so there is no weight on the tires and deflate.
Another thought about tire preservation: Since most of us are "shop rats" of one form or another, if you store your bike in a garage where you have a workshop set up, try not to park the bike near any electric motors (air compressors, etc) since they can produce ozone, which degrades rubber.
For the CB550, the engine breather foam at the bottom of the airbox should be cleaned, dried and lightly oiled. I don't remember if the 750 has something similar.
7. OtherWax painted surfaces, Lube the chain, Grease all fittings. Wouldn't hurt to lube the cables.
You're supposed to clean the bike before storage, as dust will wick any moisture onto the surface and hold it there. Use a cotton cover to help keep dust off, but at the same time allow air circulation. This, of course assumes the bike is stored in a covered, protected environment.
I've heard of some people finding a plastic bag that's bike enough to put the bike in and toss in a few bags of desiccant (moisture absorbent) to keep things dry. Info on "Vac-Bags" can be found here:
www.vac-bags.co.uk/product.htm For those of us that run in-line fuel filters the spring is a good time to change them since they can trap water that might have formed in the fuel system over the winter.
Thanks to:
TwoTired
Bob Wessner
Jonesdp
Chris Liston
Jotor