Author Topic: Main fuse keeps blowing (Read 26004 times)

andy8190 · « **Reply #150 on:** March 16, 2009, 09:23:27 PM »

that is correct

MikeB · « **Reply #151 on:** March 16, 2009, 09:28:00 PM »

ok try this you (might blow another fuse)

remove headlight

plug in turn signals

turn on your light switch , if you blow a fuse one of the turn signal leads (both black)
could be shorting/gounding out in the turn signal housing

andy8190 · « **Reply #152 on:** March 16, 2009, 09:34:56 PM »

haha new symptom. plugged in the head light and unplugged the right blink and it doesnt blow the headlight when switched on. When i hit the right blinker the back right blinker works and the indicator light does as well. Now here is the interesting part. when i hit the left blinker the headlight turns off and the left blinker works.

MikeB · « **Reply #153 on:** March 16, 2009, 09:46:23 PM »

are you trying to confuse me lol

don't know the wiring on the 550
but my 650 has two black wires from the turn signals the plug into (right side light blue and blue/white) (left side into orange and orange/white)

did you try turning on the lights with turn signals pluged in and headlight unpluged ?

Spanner 1 · « **Reply #154 on:** March 16, 2009, 09:47:20 PM »

Great stuff guys,. yer all working-on it !!

MikeB · « **Reply #155 on:** March 16, 2009, 09:51:02 PM »

I'm trying
but i fear I might be confusing him ?
am I making sense ?

andy8190 · « **Reply #156 on:** March 16, 2009, 09:53:00 PM »

its got to be the right blinker. I just turned on the right blinker with the headlight unplugged and it even blew the fuse, the left blinker and headlight worked fine with the right blinker unplugged. so i am taking it apart and gonna look over it.

MikeB · « **Reply #157 on:** March 16, 2009, 10:01:46 PM »

then yes right blinker
probably one of the black leads coming from the turn signal is grounding out in the housing

if you have a meter you can test for resistance from the black wires to ground
you should have infinite resistance.

if you read very low resistance at either black lead to ground
that would be the one that is shorted

if no meter
than unplug the right blinker and turn on the lights and plug the black leads from the
turn signal (one at a time) into the right signal leads in your headlight bucket (light blue and blue/white)
which ever black lead blows the fuse is the shorted one

andy8190 · « **Reply #158 on:** March 16, 2009, 11:48:02 PM »

so i dont know what it was a bad ground or just the wires touching bc they were crammed in the clicker case, but i soldered a new ground on then looped the wires around in the case so they were not so wedged and everything works fine now. Tomorrow i want to get an electrical blinker because i hate how slow the mechanical ones blink.

MikeB · « **Reply #159 on:** March 17, 2009, 07:45:51 AM »

glad to here you got it isolated

if by moving the wires around and now it works
might have a bad solder joint in the bulb socket or a skined wire going to the socket

vibration from riding might move the wire enough to short it out at anytime
make sure you carry spare fuses with you

you could just unplug the lead and tape it off its for your running light when your headlight is on
unplug the left one also , might have a little less power draw on the battery also
unless you do a lot of night time riding you don't really need them on

good luck
Mike

ron.cieri.313 · « **Reply #160 on:** March 18, 2009, 08:22:23 AM »

I can't find the exact post on this subject now but wanted to says thanks to all...my main fuse on my Honda CB750 K kept blowing...I broke the metal clips when cleaning so went on to replacing with a mini-blade fuse and fuse holder from radio shack per instructions...works great...kept the the two others fuses as is for now...thanks all...ron.

Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er · « **Reply #161 on:** March 18, 2009, 11:39:34 AM »

Speaking of melting a hole in the cover, be sure to check the plastic in the back where it is molded around the fuse clips. You will probably find it melted there also. No way will a fuse be held in place properly. This will create heat and blown fuses. New fuse box time if so. One usually goes with the other. If you're lucky and have the 5 position fuse box I guess you could always unsolder the wires on the bad position and resolder on the spare fuse holder.

theked · « **Reply #162 on:** March 18, 2009, 11:02:35 PM »

try the kill switch wiring. I had the main fuse blow on my bike went through everything and the p.o. had done some pretty bad wiring in the kill switch that was causing the blow to occur. Re-wrapped the wires and haven't had a problem since

Alan F. · « **Reply #163 on:** March 19, 2009, 07:18:23 AM »

I've got a few fuse blocks I picked up a few years back at a swapmeet, they're made by a company called Littelfuse and they look like this, except they're singles not ganged together like the one in the photo. I'll adapt them to the harness in a watertite enclosure with the stock wiring from my oem fuse block. New clean connections, and I get to use the spare fuses I've been carrying all along.

Alan F. · « **Reply #164 on:** March 19, 2009, 07:19:25 AM »

or to keep things simple, these water resistant blade fuseholders are available all over the place.

78CB750CAFE · « **Reply #165 on:** March 19, 2009, 11:36:34 AM »

Quote from: Alan F. on March 19, 2009, 07:19:25 AM

or to keep things simple, these water resistand blade fuseholders are available all over the place.

3 of them replaced my stock fuse box, and 1 more for the relay power to my headlights. I run 15a main and relay power fuses and 5a on the other 2 since I am pulling headlight power through the relays and all other lights are LED. Haven't blown a fuse in a year since I did the swap, I used to blow mains around 5-6 times a year.

Alan F. · « **Reply #166 on:** March 19, 2009, 09:49:14 PM »

Quote

3 of them replaced my stock fuse box, and 1 more for the relay power to my headlights. I run 15a main and relay power fuses and 5a on the other 2 since I am pulling headlight power through the relays and all other lights are LED. Haven't blown a fuse in a year since I did the swap, I used to blow mains around 5-6 times a year.

Now that's the kind of info that should go into the FAQ or tips and tricks!!!

cb750fbomb · « **Reply #167 on:** May 20, 2009, 02:03:52 PM »

So I'm riding around and she starts acting like she's going to die and figured I just didn't clutch/throttle correctly. Drive 3-4 more blocks and she cuts out. Thanks god there were no cars behind me and I was only about 20 minutes from home. The battery screws were tight and the fuses looked good at the time. I call a buddy and he comes to get my key to get my spare battery at my house because I broke down in a shadey neighborhood and didn't want to leave my bike ("You can pry it from my cold, dead hands"). Just before he got back, about 10 minutes later, I try to start her again and she fires right up.

My buddy followed me home and I got there with no problems. Once I was home I checked my battery voltage, sealed battery, and it was at 13 volts. I get back on and ride around the neighborhood, she keeps acting like she wants to cut out and she dies a block from my house after about 10-15 minutes. She acts like she's cutting out when the rpms go up which makes since with more juice flowing through the system. I got her home, checked the fuses and notice that the bottom fuse, the main, was burned and while installing a new fuse I noticed that the prongs that hold the fuse are black when the others aren't. I pulled it off and behind the main fuse the red wire is melted, not the wire insulation(?), looking like someone had soldered it and the fuse holder pieces are charred. With a new fuse in it starts right up. I bet as soon as I go riding, give it throttle and the charging system does it's thing it will happen again.
Is my harness screwed or will a new fuse panel resolve it? I have one on the way from evolution_7, so that's covered. Any common procedure for finding this particular type of falt? My PC, actually my OS, died from a virus a couple of days ago and I have to use library PC's. They only let you use them for a short period of time, so my searching ability is very limited. This being said, sorry for not searching before asking. Any help would be greatly appreciated and I will try to get back here to the library until I get my XP disk in the mail.
Also, I have had to use fuses that are longer than the stock ones because I can't find the older style smaller ones anywhere around here.

OldSchool_IsCool · « **Reply #168 on:** May 20, 2009, 04:09:13 PM »

Sounds like the real problem is the hacked up fuse box. Ev0'z replacement should fix you right up.

Bill Vaughan · « **Reply #169 on:** May 20, 2009, 04:19:39 PM »

I had the same issue with a CL360 I restored a few years back. Not to say that there isn't another problem lurking with yours, but a new fuse box fixed the problem on the 360 and it's been fine ever since.

cb750fbomb · « **Reply #170 on:** May 26, 2009, 06:22:25 PM »

I've installed evo's fuse box and have had no problems anymore.

Beans · « **Reply #171 on:** May 26, 2009, 06:59:38 PM »

is their a website to evo's box or where can I get one. im in the process of getting all my parts together before I build her back up and well wanted to clean up all the wires and everything and hopefully try to feed the wires through the frame if possible.

OldSchool_IsCool · « **Reply #172 on:** May 26, 2009, 07:56:38 PM »

You can PM him here... http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?action=profile;u=4982

UnCrash · « **Reply #173 on:** May 26, 2009, 07:58:36 PM »

Hey Beans,

Evo is a veteran member who is helping a brother out...

I had a similar problem with my fuse box and bought a fresh old one from Ebay. There's also many threads on a conversion to blade fuses which is pretty simple.

Cheers~

cb750fbomb · « **Reply #174 on:** May 26, 2009, 08:16:27 PM »

Here's the link to the thread about them:
http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=50593.0

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Author Topic: Main fuse keeps blowing (Read 26004 times)