Topic: Sparty's bike one step closer to GO! (Update)10/1

[sparty]

Guys,

I tackled the CR carb install today.  I true PITA it was.  Most of the time was spent hooking up the throttle cables and adjusting them properly.  It took forever.  Here are a few pics on my web page.  http://www.basd.net/staff/aentz/CB750/CB750_page.htm


Sparty

[MRieck]

I like those OEM black manifold clamps. I will probbaly switch to those.( I DO have a brand new set of 8 OEM silver clamps in the bags). Looks good Art...getting near the day.

[scondon]

 I rue the day that one of my cables should break and make me go through that again   Kee-ripes, Sparty!!!  Pics look really sweet When do you think you'll be firing it up??

[andy750]

Mike - if you dont want those silver clamps Ill gladly take them off your hands 

cheers
Andy

[sparty]

I rue the day that one of my cables should break and make me go through that again   Kee-ripes, Sparty!!!  Pics look really sweet When do you think you'll be firing it up??

Well, I thought I would have it running this weekend, but I am still waiting for some special -AN10 hose fittings for my braided oil lines, they were on back order two weeks ago.  Two freaking $10 clamps are holding up the finished product.  I am not happy about that.

[RRRToolSolutions]

Art, I think I remember making the same verbal complaint abou the CR install - that cable is a monster the first time. Did you have to drill the threads on yours? My K-4 uses 2 nuts to adjust the cable and the fitting is "fixed" to the cable, so mods to the CR bracket were madatory.

Don't forget to add a Kawi ZRX remote throttle screw and you can get stainless clamps to go over those nipple ports on the intakes. I worried that one back-fire and those brass nipples would go flying and I'd have a lean mix on a cylinder. Somewhere back in time I posted the how-to.

Looking good!!

Regards,
Gordon

[scondon]

Grrrrrrrrrr, I feel your pain, Sparty. Too close to have the raging beast held up by a $10 part   All that angst will dissolve when you point it down the road for the first time though

[sparty]

I like those OEM black manifold clamps. I will probbaly switch to those.( I DO have a brand new set of 8 OEM silver clamps in the bags). Looks good Art...getting near the day.

Mike,

I bought a case of Honda HP4 oil for $88 at my local shop.  I'll run that oil after the break-in period.
I installed that Dyna 2000 system on the crank.  It went well.
Things are getting tight with all of the carbs, fuel lines, breather hose, wiring, etc.  I am running out of room to get my fingers in there.  That MSD crimp tool you recommended worked great.  I made the wires last week.

What gap should I set those plugs at that you supplied?

I found a guy who buys race gas in the 55 gallon drum.  He told me he will sell some to me when I am ready to take the bike to the drag strip.  It is the Sunoco 260 GT Plus race fuel.  Here are some specs.

Fuel Property Typical Specifications
 
Specific Gravity .746
 
Lbs./gal. 6.23
Pump Octane (R+M)/2 104
 
RON, Research Octane 109
MON, Motor Octane 99
Reid Vapor Pressure 6.3
Distillation, ºF  
Initial Boiling Point 113
10% Evaporation 151
50% Evaporation 219
90% Evaporation 229
Final Boiling Point 253
Leaded No - off road use only
Color Light Blue
Oxygen, Wt.% 4.5

[sparty]

Art, I think I remember making the same verbal complaint abou the CR install - that cable is a monster the first time. Did you have to drill the threads on yours? My K-4 uses 2 nuts to adjust the cable and the fitting is "fixed" to the cable, so mods to the CR bracket were madatory.

Don't forget to add a Kawi ZRX remote throttle screw

I didn't drill the threads out.  My cables is the same as yours, but I screwed the cable in first then hooked it to the throttle grip.  I had to make micro adjustments to the cable settings so that the carbs opened fully, at first they were not opening all of the way, now they are spot on.

I need to order the remote throttle screw, but I am not sure how I will fit it to the stock screw.  I don't have the ability to machine the screw to accept the cable.

[MRieck]

I like those OEM black manifold clamps. I will probbaly switch to those.( I DO have a brand new set of 8 OEM silver clamps in the bags). Looks good Art...getting near the day.

Mike,

I bought a case of Honda HP4 oil for $88 at my local shop.  I'll run that oil after the break-in period.
I installed that Dyna 2000 system on the crank.  It went well.
Things are getting tight with all of the carbs, fuel lines, breather hose, wiring, etc.  I am running out of room to get my fingers in there.  That MSD crimp tool you recommended worked great.  I made the wires last week.

What gap should I set those plugs at that you supplied?

I found a guy who buys race gas in the 55 gallon drum.  He told me he will sell some to me when I am ready to take the bike to the drag strip.  It is the Sunoco 260 GT Plus race fuel.  Here are some specs.

Fuel Property Typical Specifications
 
Specific Gravity .746
 
Lbs./gal. 6.23
Pump Octane (R+M)/2 104
 
RON, Research Octane 109
MON, Motor Octane 99
Reid Vapor Pressure 6.3
Distillation, ºF  
Initial Boiling Point 113
10% Evaporation 151
50% Evaporation 219
90% Evaporation 229
Final Boiling Point 253
Leaded No - off road use only
Color Light Blue
Oxygen, Wt.% 4.5

Yes...GT Plus is supposed to be good fuel. Problem is it must be fresh or stored air tight.

[MRieck]

Art, I think I remember making the same verbal complaint abou the CR install - that cable is a monster the first time. Did you have to drill the threads on yours? My K-4 uses 2 nuts to adjust the cable and the fitting is "fixed" to the cable, so mods to the CR bracket were madatory.

Don't forget to add a Kawi ZRX remote throttle screw

I didn't drill the threads out.  My cables is the same as yours, but I screwed the cable in first then hooked it to the throttle grip.  I had to make micro adjustments to the cable settings so that the carbs opened fully, at first they were not opening all of the way, now they are spot on.

I need to order the remote throttle screw, but I am not sure how I will fit it to the stock screw.  I don't have the ability to machine the screw to accept the cable.

I bet the FCR remote srew will work. My FCR's are of the FJ....I'll measure the threads to a CR idle screw.

[sparty]

Art, I think I remember making the same verbal complaint abou the CR install - that cable is a monster the first time. Did you have to drill the threads on yours? My K-4 uses 2 nuts to adjust the cable and the fitting is "fixed" to the cable, so mods to the CR bracket were madatory.

Don't forget to add a Kawi ZRX remote throttle screw

I didn't drill the threads out.  My cables is the same as yours, but I screwed the cable in first then hooked it to the throttle grip.  I had to make micro adjustments to the cable settings so that the carbs opened fully, at first they were not opening all of the way, now they are spot on.

I need to order the remote throttle screw, but I am not sure how I will fit it to the stock screw.  I don't have the ability to machine the screw to accept the cable.

I bet the FCR remote srew will work. My FCR's are of the FJ....I'll measure the threads to a CR idle screw.

Thanks Mike.  Let me know ASAP and I'll order one.

[scondon]

 I took the CR idle screw to the hardware store and bought a matching one with an allen head. Had the machine shop cut the old threaded portion off the remote adjuster and weld it to the allen screw. Finished the tip of the screw by rounding it a bit to match the tip of the CR screw.

 Got the remote adjuster off a set of Katana carbs my friend had lying around. I was able to take the routing clips too so I didn't have to fab any mounts. I think a lot of modern carbs use the remote adjuster and you might be able to save some coin if you can find an abandoned set in some buddies garage.

[RRRToolSolutions]

We did have to cut the Kaw threads off and weld on the stop washer and the original CR screw's threads. I have a good welder nearby. I'm glad of that too - we just finished these last week.

[MRieck]

I took the CR idle screw to the hardware store and bought a matching one with an allen head. Had the machine shop cut the old threaded portion off the remote adjuster and weld it to the allen screw. Finished the tip of the screw by rounding it a bit to match the tip of the CR screw.

 Got the remote adjuster off a set of Katana carbs my friend had lying around. I was able to take the routing clips too so I didn't have to fab any mounts. I think a lot of modern carbs use the remote adjuster and you might be able to save some coin if you can find an abandoned set in some buddies garage.

Sean...I believe the routing clip I have is from a Can O' Tuna too. Art....you got the "Billion Dollar CB" bro.

[MRieck]

We did have to cut the Kaw threads off and weld on the stop washer and the original CR screw's threads. I have a good welder nearby. I'm glad of that too - we just finished these last week.

Gordon....I'd name that "The Bad Ass Toy".
         Mike

[scondon]

Sean...I believe the routing clip I have is from a Can O' Tuna too. Art....you got the "Billion Dollar CB" bro.

   Are they called Can O' Tuna everywhere? Man those bikes get a bad rap Remote adjuster works good though, as well as the front MC.

 With all the money I didn't spend on the rest of the bike I'm thinking of lengthening the title to "Sumbich- the Million Peso CB". A million pesos can still buy a lotta hot sauce

[RRRToolSolutions]

Mike, my CB will never perform peak numbers like my Green H2. I have a stock 1974 and a stock 1975 - the Honda will eat them..

These are the TomCats I've been waiting on for 18 months. These are the pipes Darren Abrams of LRE used to test the engine's porting. These generated 161 at the crank. I'm still working out carburettor tuning, but all indications are that the rear tire and 3" extended swinger aren't enough..

Art - this runs on 92 octane! It just likes it a lot - about 15 mpg.

Thanks for the compliments.

Gordon

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

Geez Gordon, where are you hiding the chute? Looks really nice.

[CrisPDuk]

We did have to cut the Kaw threads off and weld on the stop washer and the original CR screw's threads. I have a good welder nearby. I'm glad of that too - we just finished these last week.

Gordon....I'd name that "The Bad Ass Toy".
         Mike

Mike, a good friend of mine used to own one of those, Bad Ass doesn't even begin to describe them, even when stock

"The HOLY F'KIN SH!T, Scary Assed Monster" is closer to the money

[Sam Green Racing]

but all indications are that the rear tire and 3" extended swinger aren't enough..

Thats what I was thinking Gordon

When you get that sorted all that you will need is a drag strip

Sam

[sparty]

Moved a few steps closer this evening to zero hour.  With some luck, it will run tomorrow.
It is just amazing how much time it takes to get everything just right.  I spend over an hour going over all of the bolts to make sure everything was secure.  I put air in the tires, adjusted the chain, fitted a crankcase breather hose and K&N filter element, gapped the plugs, bought 2 gallons of fuel (Shell V-Power).
Tomorrow I am playing hookie from work so I can set the Dyna 2000 timing and finish my oil hoses.  Then I will put oil in and get it up to pressure.  I'll start the bike, looks for leaks and then hit the road. 

I have my video camera battery charging, so I will have some video soon.

I do have two questions.  Before I set the Dyna 2000 timing, should I put oil in the bike before turning the crank?
Also, When should I synch the CR carbs?

Sparty

[RRRToolSolutions]

Art, I checked my CR's with metering rods and they were very close. In fact, I only had one carb that was out by more than 2 on my Morgan Tune. You can take a small drill bit and using the idle adjuster - set it so the smooth end will fit under the slide with only the slightest drag. If the other 3 are the same - then you're close - real close. In fact, I have to set my twin and triple cylinder bikes this way - they won't work with gauges due to reversion. Go get some miles and then come back and check them. That tank will have to be off to access the adjustment. Oh, those adjusters work absolutely opposite of what you'd think.

Gordon

[sparty]

Art, I checked my CR's with metering rods and they were very close. In fact, I only had one carb that was out by more than 2 on my Morgan Tune. You can take a small drill bit and using the idle adjuster - set it so the smooth end will fit under the slide with only the slightest drag. If the other 3 are the same - then you're close - real close. In fact, I have to set my twin and triple cylinder bikes this way - they won't work with gauges due to reversion. Go get some miles and then come back and check them. That tank will have to be off to access the adjustment. Oh, those adjusters work absolutely opposite of what you'd think.

Gordon

I have my Motion Pro carb synch ready to go.  I just got it from Steve at Z1.  I never adjusted CR carbs, so it will be a learning experience.

[andy750]

Good luck Art! We are all waiting for the First Ride report!!

cheers
Andy