Author Topic: StrongPerf 550 project! CARB / Pods / battery / tank / tuning thread with pics (Read 8503 times)

StrongPerf · « **on:** October 09, 2007, 07:58:40 AM »

I'm finally getting started on this project. I'm starting with Carb rebuild, tank resto and battery upgrade. I have a few questions too. Thanks

For starters. This bike was given to me. Not running with lots of the parts in a bucket including the carbs.

StrongPerf · « **Reply #1 on:** October 09, 2007, 08:02:44 AM »

I started by cleaning the carbs. I experimented with Simple Green and Yamaha Carb cleaner. I liked both but the Simple Green worked a little better. I decided to do both. 45 min in hot SG then 45 min in Hot Yam CC and H20 then 45 min in Hot soapy water. I then blew out and checked all the passages. Then I sprayed them with Kaboom shower cleaner and scrubbed with a tooth brush which gave them the new carb finish.

I found that one of my cars had a bent body and forced the slide to stick at 1/2 opening.

StrongPerf · « **Reply #2 on:** October 09, 2007, 08:05:06 AM »

My carbs are model 022A. I was very fortunate to find a set at my local wrecking yard for $70. I picked them up and used the one body I needed as a replacment. Also the new carbs had needles in better shape and donated lots of parts to make mine a better set.

StrongPerf · « **Reply #3 on:** October 09, 2007, 08:08:48 AM »

So I completed the clean up and assembly. I found my float height should be 22mm. This looks odd because the float hits the body at full travel up before it puts much pressure on the needle. I thought there might be something wrong but it tested ok and seems to work.

StrongPerf · « **Reply #4 on:** October 09, 2007, 08:11:49 AM »

Next I decided that I will probably use pods so I addressed the choke clearance issue. Did I mention I have a welder?

A plastic button from the local hardware store finished it off.

StrongPerf · « **Reply #5 on:** October 09, 2007, 08:19:17 AM »

Before using the pods I will run it in stock for with the airbox to get a baseline.

My carbs were listed with 40 slow jets in this forums Carb FAQ. Mine came with 38's and so did the extra set I bought. My set had 100 mains and the extra set had 98's. I'll run the 38's and 100's to start.

Anyway my needles and the extra carbs needles had the clip in the second slot from the bottom (closest to the pointed end). I think I read that they should be in the second from the top (opposite the pointed end).
Can anyone help me firm up what's correct for the clip posit on a 022A carb?
Did I set the float height right?
38 slows should be ok right?

Just for those of you reading...Stock needle clip posit is 4th from the top, float height was set correct, 38 slows were stock on many 022A's. It runs good so far.

StrongPerf · « **Reply #6 on:** October 09, 2007, 08:24:25 AM »

If I'm gonna work on somehting I like for it to look good when I'm done. I painted the linkage and brackets with dupli-color caliper paint. It resists fuel and doesn't stain. Seems like great stuff so far. I took the pivot bar and turned it down in my lathe in a couple of spots to get rid of the rust. I also had to change on of the bushings because I broke it getting the shaft out. Dumb design I thougt with no way to remove the pin. I tapped the whole an but a small (M4) bolt in it's place. I turned the tip down to the same diameter and length as the origional pin to locate the shaft. Worked great and now I can remove the bolt to get the shaft out if needed.

StrongPerf · « **Reply #7 on:** October 09, 2007, 08:28:02 AM »

Ok except for some tuning my carb rebuild is done. And I have lots of spare parts...

I added the pic of the Bolt (removable pin) for the linkage shaft

StrongPerf · « **Reply #8 on:** October 09, 2007, 08:37:51 AM »

I got the carbs in the bike and realized I don't know what is supposed to hook up to the two lines in the middle of the carbs. There are 2 vaccume or vent elbows that had small rubber lines on them but I'm not sure where or if they attach.

Can someone help me out by telling me where these go or what they are for?

You can see here I just have them connected together with a half loop. I later cut the loop and just left them open.

Thanks

gregimotis · « **Reply #9 on:** October 09, 2007, 08:44:57 AM »

Quote

There are 2 vaccume or vent elbows that had small rubber lines on them but I'm not sure where or if they attach.

I'm pretty sure those lines drain out below the bike. At least they do on my 750

.

StrongPerf · « **Reply #10 on:** October 09, 2007, 08:47:17 AM »

Next came the tank. Molasses works! 3.5 to 4 days total. It may have been done sooner but I wasn't in a hurry.

This is a spare tank that came with the bike and was in better shape.

Before and after.

StrongPerf · « **Reply #11 on:** October 09, 2007, 08:58:18 AM »

I forgot to mention I used those sharp clean little aquarium rocks and diesel to scrub the tank prior to molassas.

StrongPerf · « **Reply #12 on:** October 09, 2007, 08:59:10 AM »

Quote from: gregimotis on October 09, 2007, 08:44:57 AM

Quote
There are 2 vaccume or vent elbows that had small rubber lines on them but I'm not sure where or if they attach.

I'm pretty sure those lines drain out below the bike. At least they do on my 750 .

Ok thanks. I'm assuming they are vents and not vaccume then...

StrongPerf · « **Reply #13 on:** October 09, 2007, 09:01:33 AM »

Also, I didn't mention I have a partner on this project. His board namd is Crashskidmark. I'm sure he'll be around soon.

StrongPerf · « **Reply #14 on:** October 09, 2007, 09:07:18 AM »

I don't like the stock 550 battery. It's big and heavy and not sealed, etc. My 03 z1000 has a much better battery and I decided to have the same in both bikes. It didn't fit by 1/4 inch. No problem. I weld. I drilled the spot welds, bent the brackets a little and it fits like a glove. It's sealed, smaller and lighter and has more amps. Done!

goon 1492 · « **Reply #15 on:** October 09, 2007, 09:29:45 AM »

nice thread man! i have never heard of the molasses trick until now, sounds preety good. I'm diggin' the everstart bettery, i have used them for years the warranty is nice too three year warranty and battery burns up in two... five bucks later and a core exchange means new battery

bozo4onion · « **Reply #16 on:** October 09, 2007, 09:52:55 AM »

Your carbs look great. How the hel l does molasses clean a tank. Any chemists want to chime in? Will maple syrup or jelly work? Fun with breakfast food!! Keep posting, I'm doing a 550F and am watching closely.

Irishguy · « **Reply #17 on:** October 09, 2007, 09:59:27 AM »

Quote from: bozo4onion on October 09, 2007, 09:52:55 AM

Your carbs look great. How the hel l does molasses clean a tank. Any chemists want to chime in? Will maple syrup or jelly work? Fun with breakfast food!! Keep posting, I'm doing a 550F and am watching closely.

The way I understand it, it's and old hotrodder trick from the 50's. There is an acid present in Molassis, but it is very mild and that is why it takes so long to work. By the way most people use a farm grad molassis that is used as a feed supliment for farm animals.

If you check my cafe build thread, I used "The Works" toilet bowl cleaner that I bought for $1 at the dollar store and it cleaned my tank in about 10 minutes. Quick, cheap and simple. Just another alternative. I like the idea of using the molassis though... Very environmentally friendly.

StrongPerf · « **Reply #18 on:** October 09, 2007, 10:09:05 AM »

I used regular molassas from the grocery store. It was pricey (about $21 worth but I live in Cali) compared to works toilet cleaner but I had already bought it when I read your thread Irish. I could have bought some farm grade from the feed store but 5 gal was the option. Also since it is so mild it didn't flash rust after cleaning.

TwoTired · « **Reply #19 on:** October 09, 2007, 10:37:38 AM »

The float height is 22 mm just as the float tab hits the valve spring pin.

The slow jet on 022A is most often #38. The carb chart lists #40 because that's what I found on my 74 Cb550 022a and I KNOW it was original. However, after rebuilding many more 022A sets, it seems to be the lone aberrant.

Most likely you will want the #40 when you use pods, as these effect the throat pressure at idle.

The two hoses near the top of the carb are bowl vents to keep atmospheric pressure atop fuel in the carb bowls. They route to a point just behind the engine cases similar to the overflow tubes.

BTW, Molasses has sulfuric acid in it. Mild strength, of course, about pH of 5, I think. It is likely less acidic than coke or lemon juice.
See
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PH

StrongPerf · « **Reply #20 on:** October 09, 2007, 12:47:40 PM »

Quote from: TwoTired on October 09, 2007, 10:37:38 AM

The float height is 22 mm just as the float tab hits the valve spring pin.

The slow jet on 022A is most often #38. The carb chart lists #40 because that's what I found on my 74 Cb550 022a and I KNOW it was original. However, after rebuilding many more 022A sets, it seems to be the lone aberrant.

Most likely you will want the #40 when you use pods, as these effect the throat pressure at idle.

The two hoses near the top of the carb are bowl vents to keep atmospheric pressure atop fuel in the carb bowls. They route to a point just behind the engine cases similar to the overflow tubes.

BTW, Molasses has sulfuric acid in it. Mild strength, of course, about pH of 5, I think. It is likely less acidic than coke or lemon juice.
See
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PH

Great. Thanks for the help TT. I am on the look out for 40 slow's but still plan to get it to stock first.
Any idea on the needle clip posit I mentioned?

TwoTired · « **Reply #21 on:** October 09, 2007, 10:18:50 PM »

Quote from: StrongPerf on October 09, 2007, 12:47:40 PM

Great. Thanks for the help TT. I am on the look out for 40 slow's but still plan to get it to stock first.
Any idea on the needle clip posit I mentioned?

4th groove from the top.

#40 slows can be found in 627B carbs if you can't find an online source (Sudco?). Those were standard on the Cb500.

Cheers,

StrongPerf · « **Reply #22 on:** October 10, 2007, 06:16:12 AM »

Thanks TT. I noticed OldFarts website but didn't know how to interpret the clip posit until I saw a post where you explained it in another thread. I got it together last night and fired it up.

It ran like crap until I noticed the middle two cylinders were dead. A disconectted plug wire on 3 and a seperated plug wire on 2 were corrected. Runs #$%*in now!

That was without the airbox or filters. I'll put the airbox and filter in tonight and get to checking the valves and points. So far I'm quite pleased.

As soon as I feel the motor is well tuned I'll be doing the mock up on the GL1000 front end and disc brake rear end conversion and such. Then it's cosmetics.

Man this thing is more fun than a 16yr olds summer!

StrongPerf · « **Reply #23 on:** November 20, 2007, 08:26:18 AM »

Just wanted to let you guys know I've posted up a thread with wheels and swingarm.

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=28324.0

StrongPerf · « **Reply #24 on:** October 07, 2008, 10:44:11 AM »

Hi Guys!

It's been a while. I've completed much on the bike and I'm starting to ride it and tune with the pods.

I'm running some aftermarket 4-1 header with a slip on megaphone. I'm also running the very small pod filters. CRC tells me they are fairly restrictive and don't require any different jets than stock filter setup. Yeah, right...

I'm getting there with the jetting. I started rich on the mains and have worked my way down. So far I'm at 105 mains and the needles on full rich. This set up still isn't perfect. The needles on full rich make the very highest RPM's too rich. Any leaner on the needles the top RPM's feel good but it's too lean on the bottom. I believe it's time to switch to those 40 slow's we talked about. I think this will richen up off idle so I can lean the needle clips back out. I think this will work best. I will also probably try the 100 main just to see how it feels. So far so good.

Question: What is Throttle Valve cut away or opening?

I see it referenced in various places. Does it have anything to do with the first diameter large straight on the needle or with the emulsion tube opening that the needle fits into? In this chart I see Throttle Valve Cut away and just don't know what it is...

Thanks

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Author Topic: StrongPerf 550 project! CARB / Pods / battery / tank / tuning thread with pics (Read 8503 times)