I think 3 or +lbs comes off early one with the flange, in 73 Honda started using lighter ones..
Ok now I am Quoting from a RC catalog, which shows a stock heavy one and a lightened one, here is the text;
3 3/4 lb alternator to replace stock 8 1/2 lb unit. Helps to prevent crankshaft breakage. Charging system is not altered. I deal for street racer who needs a charging system but wants performance. Lets engine rev, more quickly and safely.
Comes completely balanced.
#1093 Deletes electric starter
#1094 With starter ( recommended for small motors only)
core charge 50.00
I am not planning on drag-racing only on my motor and would rather spend cash to make the bottom end bulletproof. Plus I have the covers made to run no alternator, it is easy to whip off, with a greater weight savings than a lightened crank.
Now something about Bonneville that many people misunderstand.. it maybe the only form of racing where weight is not critical...in fact it is sometimes added to gain traction.
On the long course (only place you can set a record), you have 3 or 5 miles to get to speed, weight of the crank makes no difference.
Bikes like Busa's often fill the swingarm with lead shot in an effort to get traction.
I want to lighten the crank later but not for next summer, I can cut it myself and rebalance the crank..
OK, here's what I am trying to put over.
The CB hasn't got the power to overcome the prepaired surface of a dragstrip.
Start upping the bhp and you will eventually overcome the surface that has been put down for the bikes and cars that have an abundance of power.
This is where you start having problems with your set up. There are several ways round these problems but as a drag racer that had a good teacher, you probably know what they are, lead weights being just one of them.
On the salt flats the problem is more or less in reverse.(talking your CB now not a Busa or any other big powerfull bike) Your power is down due to the altitude so where can you find a bit more power ? When you tune to make more power, you change the bikes power to weight ratio, allowing you to pull a higher gear and go faster. If you don't tune but reduce the weight instead you are still changing the bikes power to weight ratio which will also allow you to pull that higher gear. If you agree with this, then why not loose weight off the bike wherever you can.
I ran a small bike in the 60s that had a top speed of 70mph. It would never pull peak revs in top gear because Mr Honda made it's top gear to high.
I reduced the weight enough to allow it to pull that high top gear and it recorded 87.5mph (a 25% increase).
Lots of people think that reducing weight only affects acceleration but in reality it can aid top end speed.
If on the salt you have 3 miles to the first timing trap you wouldn't need to worry about wheel spin because you have all the time in the world to build up to your top speed.
It's down to you what you do but the lighter you can get your bike the better.
Good luck in your quest for speed, tell us more of what you are hoping to achieve.
Sam.
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