Author Topic: Sweep's hotrod 750 build log (Read 2769 times)

Sweep · « **on:** November 08, 2007, 01:56:15 PM »

I started this way long ago and had much motorwork done at APE. It was done right but took a long time and by the time I got the pieces back I had no time to build...that is until now. I'd like to thank Buzz at Dynoman for giving me a good deal of help over the phone as well as sourcing me many of my new parts. I'd also like to mention David Silver Spares, sometimes you just need something and can't find it (nos dynamo cover and front fender). They are across the Atlantic and get me what I need for a fairer price than what I usually see on ebay and get it to me in two days!

I'm sort of at the mock up/build stage. I just want to get it together and then paint the tank and do all the finishing touches after I get it running. So far I've done the following (partial listing):

-APE balanced/lightened crank.
-Carillo Rods
-APE head port and valve job.
-Web 41a cam.
-The entire motor was cleaned up and rebuilt by me. All chains and tensioners are new.
-Wiseco 836cc forged pistons.
-CR29 carbs.
-Dyna S ignition.
-Kerker 4 into 1 exhaust.
-Wheels rebuilt, powder coated/polished.
-Forks rebuilt/polished.
-Progressive rear springs.
-Brakes rebuilt/blasted.
-Swingarm needle bearing
-Tapered head bearings.

I had a hell of a time getting the carbs on today. I did get them on relatively easily but then found (as did Gordon) that my petcock would not clear. I then took them off and messed with the intakes to get a more downward angle. The carbs are back on but not slid on all the way and my instincts tell me they will leak. It took two strong men to get those babies on to the point they are now so I'll have to take them off and mess with the intakes some more. This isn't a big deal since I mixed up the push pull throttle cables and have to switch them anyway.

I pretty much started putting everything back together yesterday and here she is so far.

andy750 · « **Reply #1 on:** November 08, 2007, 02:07:35 PM »

Wow!! Very nice looking motor!!! Ill be watching to see how this turns out (and runs!). Keep us updated!! Looking good so far...any plans for painting the tank?

cheers
Andy

sparty · « **Reply #2 on:** November 08, 2007, 02:25:06 PM »

Looking great man. yeah, those CRs can be a bugger. I had an issue with my '72 tank also.

Sparty

Sam Green Racing · « **Reply #3 on:** November 08, 2007, 02:37:12 PM »

Looking good Sweep

...Why did you go for the Crane cam and what Valves did Jay put in your head ?

Sam.

Sweep · « **Reply #4 on:** November 08, 2007, 03:07:39 PM »

Andy: I'm going to likely paint the metal, etc black.

Sam: I forget which valves we went with. I'll find the sheet and then post it here.

Thanks for the comments!

RRRToolSolutions · « **Reply #5 on:** November 08, 2007, 03:18:48 PM »

Sweep, I learned a lesson on those carbs. First get the rubbers mounted to the head first. Take a short level or straight-edge. You want to turn them so their face (carb side) is perfectly square and level. My carb installation woes were my fault - not Keihin's not Honda's. Forget the numbers on the top - rotate until they are perfectly level.

Second - mount those cables push/pull and get all of the over-lap done with them on a work bench. When perfect and you've checked for full open/close and the recommended overlap (so twisting forward brings the throttle cam on the carbs to the stop), them mount them and run the cables to your throttle handle. That center frame backbone is right in the way and severely limits access when on the bike.

Here is a pic of the finished carb position "after" I listened to Buzz on getting those rubber manifolds leveled - plenty of tank clearance and no chance for a leak. You'll also find that the carbs slip on one side at the time much easier. Notice the alignment of the K&N's with the side covers - they are parallel and I've got 1" of petcock clearance - the float bowls will like this positioning too!

You're going to love the bike. That's virtually the same build I have.

Regards,
Gordon

Sweep · « **Reply #6 on:** November 08, 2007, 03:55:39 PM »

Thanks Gordon, good info. I'm going to re-tackle the carbs tomorrow. I actually got them more level than your look but they will not mount well onto the center two intakes. I guess I have to get just a bit of an angle to get the carbs on there. I will get the throttle working before I put the carbs on again.

Spikeybike · « **Reply #7 on:** November 08, 2007, 04:12:44 PM »

some very nice work so far.
what are you gonna do for the seat?

Sweep · « **Reply #8 on:** November 08, 2007, 04:19:02 PM »

Quote from: spikeybike on November 08, 2007, 04:12:44 PM

some very nice work so far.
what are you gonna do for the seat?

I have a carpy seat pan but I'm sort of thinking I'd rather put the old fender back on and get a stock seat to keep the character of the original bike. I haven't decided yet and I would have to get a seat since the one that came with it was a king and queen thingy.

RRRToolSolutions · « **Reply #9 on:** November 08, 2007, 04:40:56 PM »

Sweep, get down and look across the rubber intakes. The faces should all be square to one another. Seriously - they all line-up to be perfectly "flat" . If a straight-edge is put on them, they will all touch. The carbs won't be easy, but taking a little soapy water on your fingers and run over the intake flange. Go sparingly and don't use lube - you want this to evaporate.

Wade (Bits-4-you) or something like that in Canada sells OEM seats on EBay with buy it now - brand new and with all of the factory markings, doc door - and a metal pan - all for less than $350. I recommend him. Everything I've every bought was perfect and he'll stand behind it.

Best of luck - oh, for the record "I like your decission to go stock-retro". I love seeing the stock colors, bars, mirrors, seats, fenders ect. It adds class to a classy bike and gives me that showroom rush I had back in the 70's when I'd walk into every neighboring dealership.

I know....a can of worms

Gordon

Sam Green Racing · « **Reply #10 on:** November 08, 2007, 04:56:36 PM »

I'm with Gordon on that one.....It's called a sleeper

Sam.

754 · « **Reply #11 on:** November 08, 2007, 08:04:44 PM »

If you cant get petcock to clear, lift the tank.. Mine sits on top of a stock rubber mount, then I built a bracket and used a rubber pad to clamp tank down off a battery tray stud..

I am not using CR's but needed the clearance for other carbs

Sweep · « **Reply #12 on:** November 09, 2007, 05:18:38 AM »

Quote from: Ilbikes on November 08, 2007, 04:40:56 PM

Sweep, get down and look across the rubber intakes. The faces should all be square to one another. Seriously - they all line-up to be perfectly "flat" . If a straight-edge is put on them, they will all touch. The carbs won't be easy, but taking a little soapy water on your fingers and run over the intake flange. Go sparingly and don't use lube - you want this to evaporate.

Wade (Bits-4-you) or something like that in Canada sells OEM seats on EBay with buy it now - brand new and with all of the factory markings, doc door - and a metal pan - all for less than $350. I recommend him. Everything I've every bought was perfect and he'll stand behind it.

Best of luck - oh, for the record "I like your decission to go stock-retro". I love seeing the stock colors, bars, mirrors, seats, fenders ect. It adds class to a classy bike and gives me that showroom rush I had back in the 70's when I'd walk into every neighboring dealership.

I know....a can of worms

Gordon

I'll try using the straight edge and soap today and I'll also check out the seats on ebay. I did grind off the hinges from the frame though

Sweep · « **Reply #13 on:** November 27, 2007, 01:27:06 PM »

Here's an update. I took her out for a couple of mile ride and everything is good in the broad strokes but there's lots of tuning and things to finish up such as brakes and some polishing/painting. I left the sheet metal as is to help me to decide to repaint in the stock color or to follow my original plan of going black. I'll pound in knee inserts either way. The first few pictures are from today followed by some build history.

Now the history:

savannahcafe · « **Reply #14 on:** November 27, 2007, 01:41:03 PM »

Looks great. Cant wait to see her all done. You'll have fun "dishing" the tank. Mine is almost done.

Spikeybike · « **Reply #15 on:** November 27, 2007, 05:59:04 PM »

VERY nice, what cam are you using ?

Sweep · « **Reply #16 on:** February 02, 2008, 10:59:45 AM »

To update this thread, which will probably be moved to the new project forum...

Today was the maiden voyage of my 750 with the twice rebuilt 836 motor and it ran so well and was so fun that 5 miles turned into 20 and I'm going back out in a bit on a longer ride after checking bolt torques etc.

My settings:
-CR29 Needle clip 3rd from top
-120 Main jet
-60 Pilot jet
-Stacks
-Open Kerker exhaust (sounds like a beast)
-250 Air jet
-Dyna 2000 position 4 on 35 degrees of advance

The bike runs great and has good power but seems a bit lean on the high end so I'm thinking of dropping the needle one more position. Neutral is impossible to get into when the bike is running and I'm hoping I just need to adjust the clutch. The bike feels really tight and I'm so happy I rebuilt the front end correctly as well as the brakes and not to mention the motor. I went to my friend's shop and the bike was turning heads left and right.

scondon · « **Reply #17 on:** February 02, 2008, 03:34:36 PM »

Geez, I didn't know you had Carillos in there. Crank that baby up to 11

Sweep · « **Reply #18 on:** February 02, 2008, 03:57:44 PM »

Quote from: scondon on February 02, 2008, 03:34:36 PM

Geez, I didn't know you had Carillos in there. Crank that baby up to 11

Ah, disregard my 2nd pm then. I'm rev limited to 10 for now but we'll see.

News:

Author Topic: Sweep's hotrod 750 build log (Read 2769 times)

savannahcafe