Topic: removing studs? cb350 case

[mikedialect]

Looking to remove some studs on a cb350 case... either I'm blind or I missed it in the manual. Any tips appreciated!

[crazypj]

Cheapest is to lock two nuts together, smack end of stud to jar threads and unscrew using lower nu against top one..
Nicest stud remover is Snap-On CG500 metric, but its real expensive, particularly if you only doing one case (over $100.00)
 don't use the knurled type that grip studs, they mess them up and make them prone to snap later
PJ

[Tim.]

Are you talking about the cylinder studs?  I replaced a couple on my 550F and used the double-nut technique.  Came out like butter, which perhaps should have been cause for concern.  But, I don't own the bike anymore

[mikedialect]

I tried the 'double nut' technique to no avail. Maybe tapping the studs- as mentioned- will help aid in the process. I assume a heat gun won't get hot enough for it to be of any use...?

[RRRToolSolutions]

Are you going to re-use them or replace?

The only sure way to remove them without breakage is heat. Buzz of Dynoman builds and has built a lot of engines. He'll tell you removal attempts without heat is a crap-shoot. Corrosion of dis-similar metals just plays deveil with the threads of both.

My machinist says he's never broke a stud in 40 years and 30 of those are doing 3-4 aluminum heads daily. He heats the part in an oven for 15 minutes at 350 F. He immediately takes the part and double nuts them. "if" that doesn't work - get two large Visegrips and clamp near the bottom in opposing (180 degrees) positions and turn. What you are trying to do is make a "T" handle. Those stud removal tools and other such attemps like the double nut put a side-load on the stud. The T handle effect of the opposing Visegrips will twist even the hardest corroded studs right out.

I've broke a stud on a Kawasaki H2 750 and it cost me a lot to get it out and repaired. I'm a believer and we just replaced every one in my CB750 with heavy-duty numbers.

Good luck.
Gordon

[mikedialect]

Are you going to re-use them or replace?

The only sure way to remove them without breakage is heat. Buzz of Dynoman builds and has built a lot of engines. He'll tell you removal attempts without heat is a crap-shoot. Corrosion of dis-similar metals just plays deveil with the threads of both.

My machinist says he's never broke a stud in 40 years and 30 of those are doing 3-4 aluminum heads daily. He heats the part in an oven for 15 minutes at 350 F. He immediately takes the part and double nuts them. "if" that doesn't work - get two large Visegrips and clamp near the bottom in opposing (180 degrees) positions and turn. What you are trying to do is make a "T" handle. Those stud removal tools and other such attemps like the double nut put a side-load on the stud. The T handle effect of the opposing Visegrips will twist even the hardest corroded studs right out.

I've broke a stud on a Kawasaki H2 750 and it cost me a lot to get it out and repaired. I'm a believer and we just replaced every one in my CB750 with heavy-duty numbers.

Good luck.
Gordon

Well, I have a 68 cb350 case with a tranny in it that I am going to send to bill440cars and we were looking at ways to make shipping cheaper by having a smaller box, but it's sounding like removing the studs is not a good idea unless you absolutely have to. I don't have a torch and I was REALLY worried that I was going to break the studs when I was double nutting it.

[Terry in Australia]

Mate, if you don't need those studs and all else fails, just bend 'em at right angles and wind them out. I just did it with my K6 engine, (replaced the studs with heavy duty APE items) and it was a piece of pie! Cheers, Terry.

[mikedialect]

Terry, I know bill wanted these studs for re-use, so I will keep that idea in the tool box if I ever come across ones I don't need:)

[Terry in Australia]

No worries mate, it's like me. Crude, but effective. Cheers, Terry.