Topic: Removing paint on '75 CB550 to reveal original paint

[shepard]

I purchased this bike from someone who had repainted over the original Orange flake paint and I have been considering repainting the tank and side covers.  I believe that he bought the bike with a blue paint job and a naked woman painted on the tank, which he had covered up by painting over it with the likeness of a seal (odd).  Although I enjoy arctic animals, I find this unfitting so I have chosen to repaint. 

However, I really like the orange flake color and had noticed that some areas around the gas cap had lost the new blue paint and revealed the original orange flake color.  I am not sure if this removal was aided by gas spills or not, but I would like to know:

Is there is any paint dissolving agent I can use that may remove the bad paint job, but not eat through the original clear coat? 

Also, if I carefully sand the blue paint job off of the entire tank, could I salvage the original Orange flake paint job that I truly desire and apply a new clear coat over it?

If I cannot, then I will be forced to repaint the tank in a solid color (boring!) or maybe two-toned using tape, or add some vinyl racing stripes for some "flare".  Any recommendations would be appreciated if I cannot salvage the awesome orange flake color.

thanks

[Lumbee]

...strip it!  Theres no paint remover that would remove the paint on top, but not the original.  You could possibly sand the old off, but you would surely scuff (at the least), but probably remove the original too.

[TwoTired]

It depends on the paint layer composition.  The original paint will withstand paint thinner.  Perhaps the outer coats will not.  This would allow you to "wash off" the over paint with paint thinner.  You can use more agressive solvents like alcohol, and acetone, MEK until you find one that attacks the top layer.  If the layer you want to save begins to soften, then allow the paint to air dry and fully harden before continuing.

Another method is to use rubbing compound the rub off the top coats in successive fashion.  It's work.  But, if you get to a layer you like, then use polishing compound to make it shine and you're done.

Cheers,

[CrisPDuk]

If the repaints were rattle can jobs, it's will be possible, but painstaking to remove them without damaging the original coating.

As TT says mostly it's a case of carefully selecting and testing your solvents on an unseen part before getting stuck in

[ZetecOwns]

I am going to need pics of the seal on the tank before advising. 

[cleveland]

I am going to need pics of the seal on the tank before advising. 

+1 

I have a tasteless joke for you.

"A baby seal walks into a club........."

[bill3749]

I dunno. I think I'd do the stripping thing and then repaint. I've seen threads about painting in the original metal flake scheme on this forum somewhere. I think the solvent deal sounds like a great way to make a real mess and sanding is a guaranteed FUBAR.

[754]

You can also try WD 40 ya never know.

Sanding is very time consuming, but can  work use a fine enough grit that as you start to see through leave that area and work on the remaining thicker part.  I think if you get it so you can sort of see through the unwanted paint you can then polish or use cutting compound. Its pretty rewarding if you can pull it off. If you are willing to clear later that is a big help

We do it(sanding thru) on old gas pumps to see what decals were on them..

One problem you may encounter is the decal area, hard to save and maybe they scuffed up aggressivly before painting..like 100 grit. That and the flake had lots of orange peel back then..you may be  breaking through the high spots of the flake but still have clear remaining in low spots.. Might want to start on the decals, I think heavy sanding prep will show up more there, if they did that you may not be able to save it..

[shepard]

Thanks for all of the responses everyone.
I ended up using aircraft stripper even though I really love the orange flake paint but do not want to pay over $200 to repaint it in that color.  Turns out that the decals were totally sanded through and filled in with body filler.  Now my question is, what is the best way to get the body filler out? lots of sanding?  Also, do i need to do special prep in that area or just paint over the tank badge mount?

[Bob Wessner]

If you are talking about the badge recesses being filled with something like Bondo, I found this on an auto restoration forum. Never tried it so I can't vouch for it. If it you try it and it works, let us know. Others might be interested in the results.

"I found that gently heating the bondo with a propane torch, (I mean GENTLY, not so hot that you can't let your hand stay on it,) will soften the bondo to a depth of 1/8" or so, and you can scrape it right out with a putty knife, or chisel. I suppose that a heat gun would be better, but I saw no warping, or discoloration. I guesstimate the temp was 160-175 deg."