Author Topic: StrongPerf 550 project! WHEELS/SWINGARM/CHAIN/SPROCKETS thread with pics (Read 8239 times)

StrongPerf · « **on:** November 20, 2007, 07:50:49 AM »

Hey guys, I'm making progress. Here are some links to my other threads.

CARB thread: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=27051.0

I just don't like spokes much. So I did this. 82 CB900F wheels. It took some machining to the sprocket hub (cush drive). It was fairly easy. I machined off the seal cover to creat room. I also machined some off the sprocket flange. There was tons of room for that. I'll paint up the wheels later. Cosmetics are last. Enjoy!

StrongPerf · « **Reply #1 on:** November 20, 2007, 07:54:42 AM »

I just pulled out the sprocket studs machined the flanged and put the studs back in. I did have to tap the holes deeper.

It took a bit of measuring to get the alignments right. I found laying the wheels on thier side on a table top and then measuring from the table top to the flanges, rim, etc. worked great. This is how I figured how much to take off the spacers and sprocket flange.

StrongPerf · « **Reply #2 on:** November 20, 2007, 07:59:08 AM »

The 900F rear rotor was freakin' HUGE! and way thick. Way too much for something to hold me still at a red light.

I used to have a Kawi ZRX1200 and had some spare parts laying around. Turns out the caliper hanger and rotor would work. I had to make a spacer for the rotor. Complete with a register to fit the rotor and internal register to fit the origional register. I plunge cut around the stud holes and then turned some nuts down. These made handy little registers to locate the bigger holes in the rotor and keep everything in place. Check it out!

StrongPerf · « **Reply #3 on:** November 20, 2007, 08:00:41 AM »

Fitting nice!

StrongPerf · « **Reply #4 on:** November 20, 2007, 08:04:29 AM »

The little locator nuts fit lower than the total rotor thickness to allow clamping on the rotor when tightened.

Notice I also had to machine off the seal cover on the right side to narrow up the wheel enough to fit the caliper, etc.

StrongPerf · « **Reply #5 on:** November 20, 2007, 08:06:17 AM »

Rear wheel looking good!

StrongPerf · « **Reply #6 on:** November 20, 2007, 08:07:42 AM »

Caliper and hanger looks great. I think!

tinyrobot · « **Reply #7 on:** November 20, 2007, 08:11:50 AM »

Wow

nice machine work! Looks amazing

StrongPerf · « **Reply #8 on:** November 20, 2007, 08:12:55 AM »

Front wheel was straight forward. I'll cover it more in the GL1000 front end swap thread.

StrongPerf · « **Reply #9 on:** November 20, 2007, 08:16:10 AM »

OK so I hate puny looking flimsy swingarms. So at the cost of adding a little weight I did this.

StrongPerf · « **Reply #10 on:** November 20, 2007, 08:17:40 AM »

And this! Notice the spools to use my rear track stand without carrying around the stock center stand.

StrongPerf · « **Reply #11 on:** November 20, 2007, 08:24:01 AM »

Couple more shots to enjoy!

754 · « **Reply #12 on:** November 20, 2007, 09:04:28 AM »

Nice Work!!

How did you bend the swingarm hoop.. looks nice & clean..

Are you going to lighten the disc carrier? , looks like about a 1/3 the weight can come off easy.. Do you have access to a milll?

If I have that in my hand I look and say .."Lets Trick it up a bit"

StrongPerf · « **Reply #13 on:** November 20, 2007, 09:15:58 AM »

Thanks Tinyrobot.

754 - A friend bent it with his radius tubing bender. The kind you bolt to the floor and bend roll cages with... Not sure what you mean by the disc carrier. Are you talking about the spacer that I made? If so, I've already lightened it. I turned the od and id down just enought to get the job done. I also drilled it from the back side everywhere I could get away with. I just didn't drill it all the way through. Later I'll probably drill more holes in the disc itself or perhaps mill some unneeded material out.

754 · « **Reply #14 on:** November 20, 2007, 09:26:00 AM »

Ok, I was thinking you take a 5 or 6 in wheel cutter, and plunge downbetween the disc mounts up to the register lip.leave a bit of meat at the disc bolt mounts. Then you can see through the disc holes for a cleaner look.. I used to do that with a boring head but plunging with a wheel cutter is way quicker..

StrongPerf · « **Reply #15 on:** November 20, 2007, 09:26:40 AM »

Quote from: 754 on November 20, 2007, 09:04:28 AM

"Lets Trick it up a bit"

You and I think alike! Thanks for the compliments. I've got to save some tricking up for after the bike is built. You know when you are all done and you say "Hmmm, what else can I do?"

UnCrash · « **Reply #16 on:** November 20, 2007, 09:27:09 AM »

Sweet!

Excellent work. That bike is gonna look killer and stop great too...

Keep us posted, it's informative and inspirational.

StrongPerf · « **Reply #17 on:** November 20, 2007, 09:30:00 AM »

Thanks uncrash!

754 I totally agree but I'll save that for later. I want to first figure out how to cut down the disc itself and then perhaps cut something like you are saying that picks up the lines of the new cut down rotor! Thanks for the tips.

goon 1492 · « **Reply #18 on:** November 20, 2007, 09:31:56 AM »

That is some awsome work

can't wait to see the front end swap, this is gonna be sweet machine

754 · « **Reply #19 on:** November 20, 2007, 09:32:30 AM »

You know what they say about Billet and Sculptures...

"Easy, just cut away everything that doesnt look like the piece!!"

FunJimmy · « **Reply #20 on:** November 20, 2007, 10:52:27 AM »

StrongPerf

Awesome project!
I think I'll send you me swingarm too. That looks fabulous!

BTW. I had a ZRX1100 and loved it.
Do you have a ZRX speedo drive laying around that you could measure the ID for me?

Cheers
FJ

rlarkin70 · « **Reply #21 on:** November 20, 2007, 11:06:33 AM »

looking great!! that swingarm looks MEAN. I gotta learn how to weld so I can make cool stuff like that.

did you weigh it before and after? do you think the extra unsprung weight at the back end will translate into a change in handling? I am curious if you made the changes for asthetic reasons, or were you specifically going for additional stiffness?

I have seen those box-type swing arms for the CB550s, but I always thought that was done for weight reduction (aluminum) as opposed to stiffness. Or maybe it's a combination of both.

StrongPerf · « **Reply #22 on:** November 20, 2007, 12:42:44 PM »

FJ and Ron,

It is quite a bit heavier. I thought the stock swingarm was fairly light to begin with. At least it felt lighter than the aluminum rectangular swingarm on my Z1000. I was surprised how heavy it felt after the bracing. I did it for looks but I do think it will help the feel of the bike. The unsprung weight added isn't good but will matter less if I have good shocks which are valved correctly which I plan on. Works performance is just a few miles up the road. Remember that for things like a swing arm on a bike or control arms on a car only 1/2 of it is unsprung weight. Yes the whole arm pivots but not at the same rate. Also you can see that most of the weight added was close to the pivot itself which is sprung weight. I really won't know if I like it till I ride it hard. I'll keep you posted. I expect it will be good.

FJ - Give me some time. I'll find out the ZRX axle/speedo spec and PM you.

Ron - I'd say combination of both.

FunJimmy · « **Reply #23 on:** November 20, 2007, 04:38:58 PM »

Thanks for the ZRX axle specs. Very helpful.

That swingarm may be a bit heavier than the factory unit, but it will feel great!
Your rear wheel is gonna track perfectly, especialy with good shocks and rubber.

BTW, is that front fender from the GL1000? I looks similar to the GS750 fender that I'm using.

Later
FJ

StrongPerf · « **Reply #24 on:** November 21, 2007, 07:27:15 AM »

Quote from: FunJimmy on November 20, 2007, 04:38:58 PM

BTW, is that front fender from the GL1000? I looks similar to the GS750 fender that I'm using.

It's a DOHC CB750 fender. Around 81 I think. I had already bought a fiberglass one from Airtec but couldn't pass this one up because it has the guide on the left side for the speedo cable and I like the little lip around the outer perimeter. I'll paint it up aluminum looking along with the shortened rear I think. I'll start a body work and paint thread when it's time...

Is you swingarm aluminum or steel?

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Author Topic: StrongPerf 550 project! WHEELS/SWINGARM/CHAIN/SPROCKETS thread with pics (Read 8239 times)

rlarkin70