First off I did not want it to get out of hand cost wise, labour I can supply. So to CNC is probably out of reach for a test barrell.
Brief outline of what I thought would work;
Extra finning and thicker fins
Solid between bores and up to the cylinder studs
Probably holes between inner cyl and Camchain cavity.
Hopefully allow big-bore street use due to less heat and cylinder distortion
To clear up a previous post,
I would not run tapered fins, and leave them thicker or at least full thickness. Easier to cut you can use a horizontal type wheel cutter/ slitting saw about 3.5 or 4.0 dia. Better easier cutting action and you run a toolpath similar to the base gasket outer surface. You could cut a tapered fin with a tapered end mill but now you have to cut from at least 2 sides , if not 4. Just not worth it to me and I like thicker billet fins.
Fins would be fairly straight across front and rear and ends would be longer like the head (aprox .36 per side) It would be a meaty large cylinder that would not look like stock but is less teltale than a finless block at first glance.
Can be done manually, worst problem I see is making a mistake.. on slip of the handle..#$%$@#$..
