Author Topic: static timing  (Read 1808 times)

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cd811

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static timing
« on: July 23, 2005, 08:56:44 PM »
i'm working on a 73 sohc750
after I have timed 1-4 points, when I try to set 2-3(even wirh 2-3 plate turned all the way) I get fire just a hair past F mark.  so when I set 2-3 proper , my 1-4 fires a hair past F mark.It's like I need to make slot longer on my 2-3 plate. I hope this makes since. any suggestions? Is this close enough?
the whole plate ass. is brand new.
thanks for any feedback
cd

Offline scondon

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Re: static timing
« Reply #1 on: July 23, 2005, 09:50:37 PM »
Point gap will affect timing. When timing with a strobe gun I found that changing the point gap changes the timing at idle("F"), but not the advance timing(1l l4 or 2l l3). What are you gapping your points at?
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Buffo

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Re: static timing
« Reply #2 on: July 23, 2005, 10:00:18 PM »
I just bought the whole Dyna package: Dyna S, 3 Ohm coils and dw800 wires. It took about a half and hour to install AND time and I will never have to do it again. To hell with those points.

Don

Offline Harry

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Re: static timing
« Reply #3 on: July 23, 2005, 11:15:42 PM »
Hey CD811 - precisely this problem is described (and solved) in the FAQ!
Harry Teicher, member #3,  Denmark....no, NOT the capital of Sweden.

cd811

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Re: static timing
« Reply #4 on: July 25, 2005, 09:29:15 PM »
ok
no matter where I gap my points(13-18).the fire(points open) remains between T and F instead of on F. any ideas? the motor has not been started yet(rebuild)

Offline Bob Wessner

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Re: static timing
« Reply #5 on: July 26, 2005, 02:27:55 AM »
At this point, where are the plates (primary and secondary) relative to their adjustment range(s)?

I ask because this is how I've done it, and you can get good results with static timing. Start by making sure the backing plate(s) are in their mid-adjustment range. The large plate for 1-4 and the smaller secondary for 2-3. Adjust the point gap and check with the test light doing 1-4 first. Adjusting the backing plate is for very fine adjustment to the timing. If the timing checked after setting the gap is not within a few degrees, pretty close that is, I don't even bother trying to move the plate. Change the gap and try again. Widening the gap advances, narrowing the gap retards. When you get this part close, use the plate adjustment to zero in. Repeat the process on the 2-3 points. No question it can be tedious, but keep trying, you will get it.
« Last Edit: July 26, 2005, 05:03:21 AM by Bob Wessner »
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Offline TwoTired

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Re: static timing
« Reply #6 on: July 26, 2005, 10:37:58 AM »
If you remove the points from the plates and loosen all three large plate mounting screws, you will find that that large plate will move some distance radially on the mount posts machined into the engine case.  This movement is why you run out of adjustment range, as some plates are different diameters, and some engines have been machined to a different tollerance limit.  The spring pressures of the points pushes the plate in the opposite direction against the mount post. This puts both points in a position relative to where adjustment range is limited.

What to do.  While you have the points removed from the plate (thus all spring tension) and all three mount screws lossened, find the largest feeler gauge that will insert in the gap between mount post and large breaker plate. This is also the point gap error and directly impacts timing.  Reinstall the 1-4 points, set the gap and the 1-4 static time with the feeler gauge still inserted in the lower right mount post to breaker plate gap.  I sacrificed a feeler blade and cut one in an L shape to fit under the mount screw washer, so it wouldn't fall out during plate rotation. This way I can change the 1-4 timing while the bike is running (dynamic timing) or not (static timing).  In my experience, this brought the adjustment slot for both 1-4 and 2-3 points into an acceptable adjustment range.

How did I figure this out?  Well, the bike showed me this problem.  One day, while trying to dynamically time the engine, I had all three mountplate screws loosend while the engine was running.  It was then I could see the whole friggin plate moving around in the engine posts.  Dwell readings were all over the place, too, depending on which mount screw I tightened first or when and where the engine crankshaft was positioned when a mount screw was tighened.  Putting the plate in a stable position eliminated all the variability of time and dwell.  Then I found that if selected the right post to remove the excessive plate movement, the adjustment ranges of the slots were more than adequate.  So, I made a new tool, and, added it's use during the adjustment procedure.
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72 500, 74 550, 75 550K, 75 550F, 76 550F, 77 550F X2, 78 550K, 77 750F X2, 78 750F, 79CX500, 85 700SC, GL1100

Those that learn from history are doomed to repeat it by those that don't learn from history.

cd811

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Re: static timing
« Reply #7 on: July 26, 2005, 04:20:56 PM »
f...kin meow! ;D
twotired that worked great! ;D
I never would have thought about all that slack without you! ;D
thanks ;D
another error I was making was with the three backing plate screws ,I had install a flat washer that when tighted, it laid on the aluminum mount AND plate, which caused the plate to move up and down(because of that slack). I took flat washers off and used JUST the screws and ,BAM, it worked (no movement)
cool! ;D
thanks! ;D

Offline TwoTired

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Re: static timing
« Reply #8 on: July 26, 2005, 06:05:01 PM »
Glad to have been of some help.

Always nice to get positive feedback,  Thanks.  :)

I always wondered why the FAQ doesn't cover the breaker plate fit issue.
Lloyd... (SOHC4 #11 Original Mail List)
72 500, 74 550, 75 550K, 75 550F, 76 550F, 77 550F X2, 78 550K, 77 750F X2, 78 750F, 79CX500, 85 700SC, GL1100

Those that learn from history are doomed to repeat it by those that don't learn from history.