Topic: Products and using a Buffer

[78_SaltLick]

Okay guys i know you must be tired of these stupid new guy questions, or just stupid questions in general. So if anyone would take some pity on a poor old boy id really appreciate it.

I need to shine up my bike, i have a 6" electric buffer, can someone give me a good product to use with the buffer, or should i skip the buffer and just go for 0000 grade steel wool and some WD40?

Also, how would you use a buffer on an engine? Or would you just stick to using the buffer on the pipes/chrome parts.

Thanks again.

[Wes]

I use turtle wax chrome polish/rust remover. My chrome was really rusty when I got the bike. Now theres not a speck of rust on it, and it only took 5 minutes.

[Killer Canary]

A compound wheel and white jeweller's rouge will make aluminum gleam like chrome.

[eldar]

I think the buffer will be too large to effectively buff the engine. You might be able to use if on the larger smooth surfaces but the fins are too close. You can use a dremel with a buffing wheel for this a drill with a small buff wheel.

[78_SaltLick]

You use the same thing on the engine that you would the pipes? How about the forks?

[TwoTired]

Steel wool is fine for use on chrome and steel.  But, don't use it on alumimum.  Little bits break off and embed in the aluminum.  Then, with any moisture a small battery is created and corrosion occurs.

For parts you can take to the buffer, the hardware store has buffing compounds in tubes.  I got an assortment from a company called Divine Dico.  (The name still make me chuckle.)
http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1292263&cp=&searchId=94436&brandId=94436&parentPage=search
You need a different buffing wheel for each abrasive type, so you don't cross contaminate the abrasives.  This is true for the subject material, too.  Wheels that have polished steel aren't to be used on aluminum and vice versa.  Its the same embedded metal bits thing.
You select the abrasive for the type of finish or brilliance you want for the metal.  You can make them like mirrors of you want.  But then, maintenence is an issue.  Bare polished metal will ozidize.  And, clear coats don't adhere well to highly polished sufaces.  The original aluminum engine covers were left with a brushed surface so the clear coat would adhere with some longevity.  I was able to duplicate this brushed finish with scotchbite pads after polishing with the buffer (I used Tripoli).  The clear coat is still on it 5 years later. (Well, stone chips don't count, do they?)

[turnenwheels]

As stated, The fine bits will make life difficult if moisture is involved.  I used neverdull which brightened the crome and livened up the aluminium.  Also, scotch brite pads.  goos luck

[eldar]

The biggest problem is getting between the fins!