Author Topic: Resurrection of a K0 (Formerly "Ko Club post") (Read 18696 times)

JLeather · « **Reply #50 on:** December 19, 2007, 08:46:49 PM »

Quote from: mj_honda on December 19, 2007, 06:24:35 PM

Glad to see that someone on here picked this baby up. I seen it almost as soon as it was posted on CL. Since I don't have the time, money or space it wouldn't do me any good:)

I've only got one of the three (space) and I'm quickly running outta that

Patrick · « **Reply #51 on:** December 19, 2007, 09:07:25 PM »

I painted my K5 750 to match my truck. I believe if I came upon side covers like those, though, I'd have to paint my truck.

Patrick

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #52 on:** December 19, 2007, 09:56:02 PM »

It's looking good mate, what's the engine and frame numbers? I'm fascinated that it has the early "double cut" front fender, they're normally only found on sandcasts, so it must be pretty early?

Hey there's a headlight bucket on Ebay that you'll probably want, it's even the right color! Cheers, Terry.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/cb750-honda-SOHC-headlight-bucket-K0-cb-750_W0QQitemZ270197007707QQihZ017QQcategoryZ35581QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

JLeather · « **Reply #53 on:** December 20, 2007, 05:40:13 AM »

Well, I'd rather not post the whole string 'til I get the title situation sorted out. I've got an affidavit from Canada certifying that the original bill of sale is the last known record of this bike, and I've got the new bill of sale, but the title was lost. I need to reapply through a title service or something.

Anyway,

Engine: 10163XX
Frame: 10160XX

hahnda · « **Reply #54 on:** December 20, 2007, 06:41:47 AM »

Open up your cap to see if you have this.

I would think that you would be unless the tank was replaced at some point.

My non-sandcast also has a cut fender. Its 1009xxx.

JLeather · « **Reply #55 on:** December 20, 2007, 09:03:50 AM »

Inside the tank there are no wrinkles that I can see (unfortunately). Not sure why. The original owner never replaced the tank, and he's had it since 1971. Also, the paint definitely matches the sidecovers, and I don't think it was repainted. More puzzles...

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #56 on:** December 20, 2007, 03:46:18 PM »

No worries mate, in fact it was useful for me, you see my numbers are:

Frame: 1021123, and
Engine: 1021246.

Anyway, Steve K0 thought that this was too wide a spread of numbers (123 between frame and engine) and might have been a case of the engine is not being the original, even though I have the original title.

So it's reassured me that in fact my bike is original in that regard, considering that your frame and engine numbers (from a bike that you know is definitely original) are maybe as much as 300 numbers apart? Thanks!

Hahndy's numbers make sense regarding the "double cut" fender and wrinkle tank, if the sandcasts stopped at 7500, then a 9000 bike like his is a very, very, early diecast, and so you'd expect a lot of left over sandcast parts like double cut fenders and wrinkle tanks being fitted, but by the time yours came along 7000 bikes later, those sandcast parts were running out, I guess? Cheers, Terry.

JLeather · « **Reply #57 on:** December 20, 2007, 07:23:03 PM »

Terry,
I have the bill of sale from "Honda of Ottawa" dated September 17, 1970. It lists the exact same engine and frame numbers currently on the bike. Therefore, if the engine were to have been changed it would have had to have happened when the bike was less than a year old. I would say the chances of finding an engine in Canada in 1970 that was correct for the bike is nearly impossible given the owner said this was one of two bikes the dealer sold. The spread between the numbers is over 250, so rest assured that yours is not disqualified from being correct.

Sadly I do not have a VIN plate with an actual build date on the bike. According to the bill of sale it's a 1970, but I believe it's actually a late '69 that wasn't titled until '70.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #58 on:** December 21, 2007, 02:46:44 AM »

Yep, I reckon you're "spot on" mate, your bike is around 5000 numbers older than mine, even though I don't know how many the factory was pushing out each month, as mine is a January 1970 build, I'm sure yours would have to be a much earlier 1969 build.

I've just noticed Scott Garland's post, his engine and frame numbers for his January 1970 build K0 are 157 apart, (and about 500 after mine) so once again, it's more evidence that mine are correct also. Like I said earlier, VIN plates were not used in Oz back then, and probably not in Canada either, but if Hahndy tells us when his build date was, I think we could estimate when yours was built, I'm guessing around a month or two later? Cheers, Terry.

Swoop · « **Reply #59 on:** December 21, 2007, 02:55:53 AM »

This should get you pretty close.

You said you had
Engine: 10163XX
Frame: 10160XX

Mine is
Engine: 101635X
Frame: 101617X

build date is 12/69
Canadian with a VIN

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #60 on:** December 21, 2007, 03:07:01 AM »

Thanks mate! Looks like JL's bike is a November or December 1969 build. Interesting that your Canadian bike has a VIN too! Cheers, Terry.

techy5025 · « **Reply #61 on:** December 21, 2007, 08:54:00 PM »

....so far I see nothing that indicates you didn't get an excellent deal. Later fenders had a plastic guide for the speedo cable mounted in a hole in the rear half of the fender. The guide you have is correct for early fenders. I don't know when the wrinkle in the "wrinkle tank" was fixed but it must have been before your serial number...oh well.

It's really great to see someone get a good deal on a bike!

Jim

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #62 on:** December 22, 2007, 06:20:50 PM »

Well I just missed out on an original shorty K0 chain guard on Ebay (a pox on whoever won it!) so I took comfort in buying this repro seat. Whattya reckon?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&viewitem=&item=200185670156

754 · « **Reply #63 on:** December 22, 2007, 09:34:08 PM »

I hate to say it, but it looks thicker than I think it should just forward of the peak on the back. Them seats did look mean and lean.. that one looks more like a later one with a ducktail added..

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #64 on:** December 23, 2007, 12:37:58 AM »

Yeah, I think you're right mate, but once I've say my fat arse on it I reckon it'll come down pretty quick! Cheers, Terry.

andy750 · « **Reply #65 on:** December 23, 2007, 07:20:24 AM »

I like it! Looks like a K2 seat with ducktail - the later seats (post-74 were much thinner).

Good buy! Was that a Christmas present to yourself

cheers
Andy

Magpie · « **Reply #66 on:** December 23, 2007, 09:06:36 AM »

This one was given to me. A long ways from original but should be a good project. The engine isn't seized, build date 12/69. It will be expensive though!
Cliff.

Johnie · « **Reply #67 on:** December 23, 2007, 12:46:26 PM »

Terry...I wish you a lot of luck with that repro ducktail seat. I had bought that same one from the same guy you did in Oregon. I sent it back. The seat pan is plastic which was not that bad, but the rubbers on the bottom of the pan are not even close to what the OEM is. I did not take it out of the bag, but placed it on my KO in the bag. It sat way low compared to where it was supposed to sit. Now if you have some KO seat rubbers you could put on there you may be OK. The rubbers on this repro are not as high as the OEM and that is the problem. And it is fatter like mentioned. The sales receipt says you can not send it back if you open the bag so you may want to lay in on there first before you take the plastic off. If you decide you want to send it back contact me and I will tell you what it takes to get some of your money back. Best of luck and I sure hope it works for you!!!

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #68 on:** December 24, 2007, 03:56:42 AM »

G'Day Johnie, thanks for the "heads up" mate, I've got a K1 seat base with rubbers which I believe is the same as K0, so I should be ok. I've got a mate who is a really good upholsterer too, so he might be able to take some of the "fat out of the seat foam if It's too bad, but to be honest, the OEM K0 seat doesn't look too comfy, and this bike will never be a "show bike" with all the repro stuff I'll be using, so no biggie.

Quote from: andy750 on December 23, 2007, 07:20:24 AM

I like it! Looks like a K2 seat with ducktail - the later seats (post-74 were much thinner).

Good buy! Was that a Christmas present to yourself
cheers
Andy

G'Day Andy, that's right mate, it's my Christmas present to me, ha ha!

Johnie · « **Reply #69 on:** December 24, 2007, 02:11:54 PM »

Merry Christmas Terry...it sounds like you have it under control and should be good if you can get the correct rubbers. I am still looking for a ducktail. For the time being I have the K1 on there that I got from the same guy in Oregon. His K1 is a nice seat. I still have my OEM ductail pan and pad, but the guy had a different cover on it. I may end up with the Yamiya for $750 at some point, but I am in no hurry. The only ones that know I should have the ducktail on my KO is the guys on the board when they see my picture. So I can live with it for a while. Have a great Christmas with your new KO seat.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #70 on:** December 24, 2007, 03:26:38 PM »

Thanks Johnie, like you, most people around here where I live wouldn't know a K0 from an F2, but I want to take it to the Phillip Island classic motorcycle races on January the 26th/27th, and as there will be a lot of "enthusiasts" there, I'd like to get it a tad closer to original.

Why don't you just buy the Yamiya cover for 220 bucks and put it on your foam and base? These prices are scary to me, but if you've got the money to spend, you can't do much better than the Yamiya stuff, for sure! Cheers, Terry.

toycollector10 · « **Reply #71 on:** December 24, 2007, 08:18:24 PM »

Those reproduction ducktails are all over the Internet at usually never less than $300 USD.

The reproduction seats for, say, a 1973 Kawasaki Z1, are usually $150 USD.

There just isn't twice the workmanship or material in the Honda seat. It's just sandcast
or K0, therefore the price is ramped up.

Johnie · « **Reply #72 on:** December 24, 2007, 09:01:32 PM »

Excellent point toycollector...I had sent Yamiya a message twice asking why the KO seat was $750 and the K1 seat was $350. Basically the same seat except for the ducktail. They never responded back to me. I guess they did not know why either...rip-off, yes.

mcpuffett · « **Reply #73 on:** February 02, 2008, 10:15:27 AM »

Terry have you any upto date photos of your KO with its new seay etc? ;)cheers Mick

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #74 on:** February 02, 2008, 01:37:04 PM »

Quote from: mcpuffett on February 02, 2008, 10:15:27 AM

Terry have you any upto date photos of your KO with its new seay etc? ;)cheers Mick

G'Day Mick, well the first seat never arrived, (see my recent post in the BS post thread) but supposedly the replacement was sent out on Thursday, so I should have my Christmas present sometime before my birthday, ha ha!

I'm looking forward to it too, I took the K0 for a 50 mile ride yesterday and I've noticed that the OEM K1 seat is a little "firm", ha ha! I'll post pics when the new seat arrives! Cheers, Terry.

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Author Topic: Resurrection of a K0 (Formerly "Ko Club post") (Read 18696 times)

Swoop