Author Topic: Aftermarket or OEM?? (Read 3382 times)

LoopsAndLogic · « **on:** December 25, 2007, 05:04:52 pm »

I have a question. When choosing a set of fork seals and dust boots, would you choose the OEM ($25 each for the seal and $24 for a dust boot) or an aftermarket Bikemaster/Parts Unlimited set for $15 for everything??

I have a few pits in the chrome legs as well, but how should I go about fixing them??

It's my first time changing front fork seals on a CB this old.... I've changed a few CB650 and GL500 SW's, but that's it!

I guess I should have said, 2 questions

Cheers,

LL

754 · « **Reply #1 on:** December 25, 2007, 05:55:41 pm »

Some seals are better than others..more lips or better design, but generally most seals will work. Cant say OEM will be better.
HD 35 mm narrow glide should interchange, just tuck that away in case your seals screw up on the road.

If your tubes are pitted, you cant expect very long seal life.

LoopsAndLogic · « **Reply #2 on:** December 25, 2007, 06:17:09 pm »

That's where I'm hoping someone could help me on this problem as well.

Good idea by the way,

LL

rhinoracer · « **Reply #3 on:** December 25, 2007, 06:21:49 pm »

For top quality and fit nothing beats OEM, Honda parts are really top notch. But there's a big difference in price so it would depend on your budget.

Aftermarket parts are fine, just don't put them side by side with the OEMs.

Before installing make sure to remove any surface irregularities from the fork sliders to prevent damage to the seals, other than that there's little you can do. There are some services that repair pitted fork legs or you can look for a good used set.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #4 on:** December 25, 2007, 06:27:03 pm »

I always "linish" pitted fork legs when I change the seals (and most after-market fork seals I've used have worked fine) with a "worn" piece of emery cloth, that I've "worn" by running it over my vice a few times to take the "bite" out of it, the benefit here is that it'll smooth the edge off the pitting, so the pits don't bite into the seal. It's an old trick that a bike mechanic showed me years ago, and has worked well for me. Of course, if you can buy some better tubes, then you should. Cheers, Terry.

LoopsAndLogic · « **Reply #5 on:** December 25, 2007, 06:30:35 pm »

I remember someone telling me to use Epoxy that's automotive tough, and when it's fully dried into the pit, go over the small pit with 2000grit sandpaper and work your way up until you can't feel a single snag.

Does this sound like the best idea. Or am I just putting more scratches in the chrome??

Nobodies shocks could be perfect. So how do you guys deal with this??

I would think emery cloth would still put lines in the chrome. Or, because the lines are following the motion of the forks, the seals would just form groves to accommodate these lines??

LL

LoopsAndLogic · « **Reply #6 on:** December 25, 2007, 06:33:08 pm »

Also, before I head to bed. I just wanted to let you know, that the forks on the 400F must be a pretty cheap chrome job.

Cause with all the forks I've seen at the junk yards, and after asking sellers on Evilbay, they are always pitted!

No Joke!

LL

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #7 on:** December 25, 2007, 06:51:27 pm »

The emery cloth does scratch the chrome mate, but if your forks are pitted anyway, no biggie. I've heard of guys using epoxy to fill the pits, I doubt if it's a permanent solution, but might work for a while.

2000 grit sandpaper would have less bite than your handkerchief though, so you might need to knock the excess epoxy down with a much courser grade initially then use the 2000 to polish it to a glass like finish.

All Japanese "hard chroming" of forks back in the 1970's was crap, you can get them re-hard chromed (not decorative chroming) at places that recondition hydraulic rams for earthmoving equipment and it'll be much better quality. Cheers, Terry.

azuredesign · « **Reply #8 on:** December 25, 2007, 07:18:25 pm »

While I would recommend it sparingly and gently, you can use a bench grinder with a buffing pad along with some white rouge, or if necessary Tripoli compound, to gently smooth the pitted areas. Although you won't remove much chrome, you do have to keep in mind that you need to polish evenly, as conceptually I guess you could flat spot. Another alternative might be the inexpensive legs that Cycle X is selling. I also agree that the epoxy seems like a short lived fix.

754 · « **Reply #9 on:** December 25, 2007, 08:00:52 pm »

Aftermarket tubes will be decorative chrome which is softer and prone to pitting or scratching.

I have seen a few aftermaket forks that are a bit undersize which would not help either. If you try to get decorative chrome redone.. regardless of price, the tube will probably be out of round and undersize when you get them back!! Shiny..still junk..but Shiny junk!!!

Hardchrome is the way to go, duller but way harder.

Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er · « **Reply #10 on:** December 25, 2007, 11:17:34 pm »

As far as the seals go, you will find single lipped or double lipped seals. I can't guarantee that all Honda replacement seals are double lipped but the last ones I bought were. The way I figure it, double lipped seals are like double seals.

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #11 on:** December 26, 2007, 01:04:32 am »

I can recommend the CycleX fork tubes, I've got them on my bike, and they're excellent quality. Cheers, Terry.

eurban · « **Reply #12 on:** December 26, 2007, 05:34:16 am »

Forks by Frank (or whatever they are exactly called) are excellent quality, definitely not some aftermarket "junk." Also have a pair of aftermarket purchased from David Silver's for my GL1000 front end that are very, very nice. Definitely hard chrome. OEM is nice for a restoration of if you find a sweet deal but there are plenty of quality aftermarket options. Oh and I used "Leak Proof" seals with the replacement GL pieces. Work(ed) nice . . . . . . Here's a pic of the DSS supplied (don't know who manufactures them) GL forks. Note the satin hard chrome finish. Actually a bit less shiny than stock . . .

LoopsAndLogic · « **Reply #13 on:** December 26, 2007, 06:39:13 am »

Is cycle-X the websites name or the brand of the forks??

I looked at DDS, but there way too much to ship

After looking at epoxy, it says it's oil and gas proof that can withstand 1200psi. I guess I have to knock the edges off
the forks and then fill them.

I will look into that double lip. That never occurred to me.

This stinks! It seems like all the expensive stuff on my bike is going or needing replacement. LOL

LL

333 · « **Reply #14 on:** December 26, 2007, 07:17:21 am »

It's "Forking by Frank". Here's the website;

http://www.frankmain.qpg.com/

c_kyle · « **Reply #15 on:** December 26, 2007, 07:56:51 am »

I have had the LeakProof seals and dust boots on for about 8 months or so. The seals are holding up great, but the dust boots suck. They always ride up after about 10 minutes on the road.

754 · « **Reply #16 on:** December 26, 2007, 08:25:12 am »

How many of you have miked your replacement forks?? I have seen at least one that was a bit too far under for brand new. Just being shiny and fitting the bike does not a good fork make.

I do some work for a guy that builds custom front end assemblies. Some forks we shorten for a couple reasons, one being to put in an air lift assembly. Anyway after checking a few hundred sets it has come to light that tolerances can be a bit sloppy., but OEM never were.

azuredesign · « **Reply #17 on:** December 26, 2007, 09:35:49 am »

Quote from: LoopsAndLogic on December 26, 2007, 06:39:13 am

Is cycle-X the websites name or the brand of the forks??

I looked at DDS, but there way too much to ship

After looking at epoxy, it says it's oil and gas proof that can withstand 1200psi. I guess I have to knock the edges off
the forks and then fill them.

I will look into that double lip. That never occurred to me.

This stinks! It seems like all the expensive stuff on my bike is going or needing replacement. LOL

LL

http://www.cyclexchange.net/Honda%20Page.htm

eurban · « **Reply #18 on:** December 26, 2007, 11:47:09 am »

Quote from: 754 on December 26, 2007, 08:25:12 am

How many of you have miked your replacement forks?? I have seen at least one that was a bit too far under for brand new. Just being shiny and fitting the bike does not a good fork make.

I do some work for a guy that builds custom front end assemblies. Some forks we shorten for a couple reasons, one being to put in an air lift assembly. Anyway after checking a few hundred sets it has come to light that tolerances can be a bit sloppy., but OEM never were.

Nope never precisely measured my new forks. They are hard chrome, went together without a hitch, with 3K miles they still look new, perform well and were recommended by a reputable Honda spares dealer who also could have sold me OEM tubes. Forking by Frank has been around for a good long while and seem to have an excellent reputation. Like many replacement parts, I am sure there is a wide range of quality but in my experience there are certainly some decent aftermarket options when it comes to fork tubes. BTW, Cyclexchange's fork tubes are hard chrome as well . . . .

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #19 on:** December 26, 2007, 02:59:04 pm »

What he said. I've had no problem with after-market stuff from reputable dealers like CycleX and DSS, these guys aren't "fly-by-night-ers", they have a reputation to uphold, and know that there's no point selling craap, as it'll just reflect poorly on them. I'd say that the CycleX tubes are just as good, or better, than OEM. Cheers, Terry.

Patrick · « **Reply #20 on:** December 26, 2007, 08:00:42 pm »

L&L, just a thought... did you check a parts fiche (here's a decent one with actual Honda parts numbers: http://www.hdlparts.com/fiche_select.asp?vcc=Motorcycles&mfg=Honda&year=1969) to find out what fork tubes from that era might cross over from lesser sought models?

The fork tubes in my K0 are actually from a more recent 750, but they had the same Honda part number. Might broaden your search for used parts a bit.

I had to change all of the hardware from the actual K0 tubes to the replacement set, but the tube itself is identical.

Patrick

LoopsAndLogic · « **Reply #21 on:** December 27, 2007, 02:22:16 pm »

Thanks guys for all the help, but I'm going to try fixing the forks.

I'm heading to my dealership tomorrow, and I'm going to go see what prices they want for forks.

And trying the aftermarket forks sound like a high risk.....a risk that I couldn't afford.

LL

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #22 on:** December 27, 2007, 02:35:38 pm »

I bet you can't afford new OEM forks either, ha ha!

Patrick · « **Reply #23 on:** December 27, 2007, 02:57:12 pm »

Yeah, my parts fiche shows the tube alone at $125..... That's for one....

jevfro · « **Reply #24 on:** December 27, 2007, 03:21:29 pm »

Quote from: Patrick on December 26, 2007, 08:00:42 pm

L&L, just a thought... did you check a parts fiche (here's a decent one with actual Honda parts numbers: http://www.hdlparts.com/fiche_select.asp?vcc=Motorcycles&mfg=Honda&year=1969) to find out what fork tubes from that era might cross over from lesser sought models?

.
+1 Also there might be a a whole fork assembly from another model that isn't the exact same part but might be a good replacement or upgrade!

Keep looking, they're out there... you might just find some old ones for cheap in the parts for sale section here. That's what I did w/ my cb750k5.

In the meantime...
I've read on here somewhere about ppl using jbweld to fill those pits in. I would think it should work well if you're careful w/ your sanding and aren't too concerned about cosmetics.

Good luck!
I guess hard chroming is even more expensive that deco chrome?

News:

Author Topic: Aftermarket or OEM?? (Read 3382 times)