Topic: installing and removing carbs and airbox CB550K

[Bob550four]

I'm just wondering, because when I put my carbs and airbox in my bike, its incredibly frustrating.   It looks almost as though the bike was built around the frame, and the air box was just an afterthought, that was poorly executed in terms of serviceability. 

what is the easiest and least frustrating way to do it?  because I'm VERY tempted to just put pod filters on the carbs and call it good.


Right now, I pop the rubber boots on the box part back off the carbs, and into the plastic box, then pull the carbs off the engine. its still a tight fit even in the way I've found.   when you're doing a lot of carb work, namely bench synchronizing the carbs, then realizing you gotta go back in to rebuild them because they have leaking seats and needles on the floats,  the whole process above gets really annoying.   

Any input is appreciated.

[CrisPDuk]

That's about the only way I've figured to do it, I think it's just generally accepted that it's a PITA job

[Bob550four]

Thats about what I figured. thanks.

I'm thinking I'll mothball the original airbox and just put pods on it for ease of service when funds permit.  I have a low tolerance to this much of a PITA design.   

the bike itself more than makes up for that though. its simple as can be, and I cant really find any serious flaws in its design.

[CrisPDuk]

I know what you mean, this is my first bike, and I can't believe how easy everthing is to get and remove/replace

I just wish I'd found out sooner and not spent so many years messing about with cars

[Jonesy]

Somewhere TwoTired had a post on the correct order of reassembly that made it much easier. I'll look for it later.

I figured there had to be some trick to it, as Honda would want a quick and easy assembly method on th eassembly line.

[jsaab2748]

separate and remove the air cleaner housing (under the seat) from the plenum chamber. That gives a little more room.

[Bob Wessner]

Somewhere TwoTired had a post on the correct order of reassembly that made it much easier. I'll look for it later.

I figured there had to be some trick to it, as Honda would want a quick and easy assembly method on th eassembly line.

Dan,

This the one?

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=5704.msg48277#msg48277

[Gordon]

I'm thinking I'll mothball the original airbox and just put pods on it for ease of service when funds permit. 

It's a common idea that switching to pods will make things easier, but in reality you'll spend way more effort, time and frustration getting the air/fuel mixture correct with the pods than you will putting the air box back on.  Just make sure the carbs and jets are squeaky clean and all o-rings and float valves are in good shape before putting things back together and you won't have to pull the carbs again for a long time.   

[ralt12]

I found that getting your 12-year old involved and telling him EXACTLY how to do it will save quite a bit on bandaged knuckles....(yours, anyway....)

[Jonesy]

Somewhere TwoTired had a post on the correct order of reassembly that made it much easier. I'll look for it later.

I figured there had to be some trick to it, as Honda would want a quick and easy assembly method on th eassembly line.

Dan,

This the one?

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=5704.msg48277#msg48277

Yup, that's it. It's a lot easier if the boots are still flexible. In that case I was able to hold a metal straightedge off of a combination carpenter's square and hold the boots in with that while I got the airbox in position.

[TwoTired]

I'm just wondering, because when I put my carbs and airbox in my bike, its incredibly frustrating.   It looks almost as though the bike was built around the frame, and the air box was just an afterthought, that was poorly executed in terms of serviceability. 

No sir.  Form follows function.  The carbs can be removed and reinstalled in 15-30 minutes.  I've done it many times.

what is the easiest and least frustrating way to do it?  because I'm VERY tempted to just put pod filters on the carbs and call it good.

Ever been frustrated with the carb rejetting process?

Right now, I pop the rubber boots on the box part back off the carbs, and into the plastic box, then pull the carbs off the engine. its still a tight fit even in the way I've found.   when you're doing a lot of carb work, namely bench synchronizing the carbs, then realizing you gotta go back in to rebuild them because they have leaking seats and needles on the floats,  the whole process above gets really annoying.   

Any input is appreciated.

The rear airbox boots were glued in at the factory, and weren't available as a separate offering in the parts catalog.  That should tell you they were not intended to be removed during carb servicing.  In other words, Honda thinks you are doing it wrong, and pretty much deserve the headaches you are creating for yourself.

To be fair, the aged, hardened rubber, can make the process more tedious.  But, the extra rearward movement of the air box by removing the filter mount bolts and allowing the rear rubber to deflect without the steel clamps interfering during removal and installation makes all the difference.  I also use a silicone spray on the rubber to help things slide over them.  Jonsey's straight edge used as a ramp during installation makes sense, too.  I might try that next time.  Getting the rear boots off the carbs at the start and repositioning them back on at the end I find was aided by using a dull tipped right angle scribe or some music wire bent at an angle to walk the boot bells back onto the carbs.

Cheers,

[Bob550four]

Ah, that how to explains what I pretty much did the first time.  didnt dig that very much either.

[Jonesy]

But, the extra rearward movement of the air box by removing the filter mount bolts and allowing the rear rubber to deflect without the steel clamps interfering during removal and installation makes all the difference.  I also use a silicone spray on the rubber to help things slide over them.  Jonsey's straight edge used as a ramp during installation makes sense, too.  I might try that next time. 

I took it one step further and removed the rear portion of the airbox (the part that holds the filter element). Then I had all kinds of room to move the forward manifold around.

For the straightedge, I just held it across the four rubber boots and with my hands on each side of the airbox I pinched the metal rule against the manifold, slightly compressing the boots enough so I could rotate the airbox into the correct orientation to the carbs.