Author Topic: First attempts at Polishing Aluminium (Read 20440 times)

JAG · « **Reply #50 on:** January 29, 2008, 07:51:09 AM »

seaweb that's just beautiful!

Johnie, thanks for the pics... I think I know what I need now..

JAG

JAG · « **Reply #51 on:** January 29, 2008, 04:14:32 PM »

Well I drove all over the world picking up everything.. I hope it works... I'll send some before and after pics...

I tried all these old exhaust mufflers.. Even though they are chromed and probably isn't good for it.. It got all the gunk and rust off of it except for some pitted parts.deeper parts.. Any suggestions to get it the rust off the chrome?

seaweb11 · « **Reply #52 on:** January 29, 2008, 04:55:28 PM »

#1000 steel wool with cream chrome polish gets most of the nasty stuff.

JAG · « **Reply #53 on:** January 29, 2008, 08:29:18 PM »

Well after about 3 hours of work, it is looking pretty good.. I got some steel wool and 1000 grit sand paper and that seemed to get just about every bit of oxidation off of the aluminum. It took me awhile to figure out all the rouges, so I had to go back and forth from different rouges to sandpaper and back again. I definitely learned some patience. The two pieces I did, do look 80% better, it still has some hazy spots. I wish I could take the pieces off. Tried but didn't want to risk stripping a screw. I don't know how TO get them off, but I did the best I could with them on there. Any suggestions on getting the screws free? Are they sealed with gaskets, meaning if I do take these parts off will I have to replace the gaskets? Or is it just the screws that are on there holding the sill?

I figured the rouges to be more chalky, since you guys had talked about all the dust and what not flying around, but I didn't get any of that. Is there different kinds of consistency with the rouges, or do they all come in that 'stick-like' form? I would have assumed if the compound came off and went onto the buffing wheel better that it would do a better job. Not sure what I am doing wrong.

I'm going to go back and do it again, starting all the way over to doing the wet sanding all the way down to the white rouge.

Wish I could have taken some pictures, but I can't find my friggin camera.

Thank you guys for all the help, the bike is definitely starting to shine up nicely..

Jonathan

seaweb11 · « **Reply #54 on:** January 29, 2008, 09:13:47 PM »

Are you refering to the screws on the side engine pieces?

If so go get your self an impact screw driver and have at er.

JAG · « **Reply #55 on:** January 29, 2008, 09:27:37 PM »

that would be them.. I'll pick one up tomorrow!!

Johnie · « **Reply #56 on:** January 30, 2008, 09:36:22 AM »

Yup...the impact driver will do the trick. But as I learned here on this board, those side cover screws are a 1 time use. Toss them out and get yourself a set of hex screws and replace them all as you put the covers back on. You can see a picture of 3 hex screws in the picture of my stator cover. When you put the new hex screws on use some anti-seeze. You can get an entire set of hex screws from www.stainlesscycle.com and this guy has them on ebay too. About $26. Took about a month to get them as they were real busy, but they are very nice and well organized in seperate bags so you know what goes where.
Yes, there are gaskets under those covers that you should replace if you take them off.
The dust we get is not dust from the rouge, but dust from the aluminum covers as we buff them down. You can see the black dust on my pictures under and behind my buffer.

RedMavrik · « **Reply #57 on:** January 30, 2008, 02:36:42 PM »

If he's polishing with a drill and buff pad like I think he is, he is probably sending most of the dust into the air or straight down onto the floor...

Depending on how dirty the floor is or if he's outside, he probably wouldn't notice any buildup.

JAG · « **Reply #58 on:** February 23, 2008, 10:31:24 PM »

Well here are some pictures of what I could accomplish after 5 hours. I wish I would have taken some "before" pictures but I got to eager..

There is a DEFINITE drastic difference than when it began, but I still can't get that "mirror" finish I keep seeing..

The questions I do have are on average how long do you spend on each "rouge"? Has anyone tried using the Blue rouge for final polishing?? How do you know when you are ready to go on to the next step? From Red, to Green, then to White.

I receive a lot of blackness on my rouges that rub off of the wheel when I go to apply it, due to a dirty surface I presume. Does that really matter, or does the rouges always have to remain there color, wheels have to constantly be brushed out, and the surface always cleansed between each rouge application?

What about trying different buffing wheels? Some have spiral sewed type buffer wheels that branch all the way out to the edge, like the picture Johnie posted up. Is that the general, easiest one to use? What about the concentrated sewed type? which are the types I found and tried. Also they do have the ones with only one or two sewn circles towards the inner part of the wheel, close to the arbor whole which allows for more flare and softer touches on the surface you are trying to polish? I purchased the Full Disc Loose Type Buffing Wheel with one sew around the arbor hole, and it worked pretty good on the final stage. I'll post some pics of the different wheels if need be.

With that said should you use different types of wheels for the different rouges? Or does it not make any difference what types you use, just as long as you use a different wheel for the different rouges to keep them separate?

My methods were-
Aircraft stripper soaked for a few minutes, removed by steel wool and then washed with soapy water.
Black (Emory Cake) until even layer. using concentrated sewn 6 in. buffing wheel
sanded with 1000 grit
Red rouge until it seems that it all got a little shinier. using one sewn type 4 in. buffing wheel
sanded lightly again to try and remove the rest of the imperfections
White rouge until it seemed to get shinier..

. using the same wheel type as red rouge.
Blue Rouge....Using 6 in full disc loose type buffing wheel

Sorry for being so wordy, and having so many questions, evidentally I'm doing something wrong, or you guys are making it look much easier than what it is..

P.S. I am using a drill, as I don't have the balls to tackle taking the pieces apart and doing each piece individually. So I don't see any dust. Besides I tried to break open the stator cover, but I can't figure out how to use a Impact Screwdriver!!!

InaneCathode · « **Reply #59 on:** February 23, 2008, 10:39:59 PM »

You're going to clear coat it after you polish it right? If you dont it'll oxidize pretty quickly and you'll end up doing this all over again next year.

JAG · « **Reply #60 on:** February 23, 2008, 10:50:01 PM »

I didn't think clear coat would adhere to aluminum..

What method is used for clear coating??

I thought about it. The only other thing I have done was try and use some turtle crome polish to try and give it more shine, but all it really did was cloud it up again..

InaneCathode · « **Reply #61 on:** February 23, 2008, 11:38:56 PM »

I just get clear coat from wallies or HD and shoot a wet coat over it. So far i havent found any adhesion problems, just make sure the surface is free of oil (clean it with xylene first or some sort of clean solvent)

Tower · « **Reply #62 on:** February 24, 2008, 08:48:51 AM »

If your work is at the point where you're deciding white or blue polish, then the piece is smooth enough that it will not oxidize easily. A layer of carnuba wax will keep it from oxidizing at all.

To keep the high lustre, use any non-corrosive polish at the start of each riding season and wax to finish. Be sure to get non-corrosive wax (e.g. carnuba) and not the new formula presto-bango type polishers, that ususally contain chemicals to help remove oxides. Then wax again at end of season. The covers will not yellow, and will stay shiny in perpetuity.

JAG · « **Reply #63 on:** February 24, 2008, 11:38:02 AM »

okay thanks I'll give you it a shot..

And the surface is as smooth as a baby's behind, as they say, so hopefully all I would need is some non corrosive wax..

Thanks guys.

seaweb11 · « **Reply #64 on:** February 24, 2008, 07:19:11 PM »

Truth is, it will only look restored/polished/new one day//////the day you pull it out of the shop

It's all catch up after that.

JAG · « **Reply #65 on:** February 24, 2008, 08:47:59 PM »

Isn't that the truth... I am trying to time my projects and everything there needs to be done with the bike around the same time the good warm weather hits so I won't waste anytime putting the rubber to the road!!

Johnie · « **Reply #66 on:** February 26, 2008, 11:09:22 AM »

JAG...I have not put a clear on mine but use the MAAS metal protector. I do not have the cloud issue with it.

Head · « **Reply #67 on:** February 27, 2008, 11:58:14 AM »

I like semichrome for polish and touch up. Nice luster and shine. head

JAG · « **Reply #68 on:** February 27, 2008, 05:52:55 PM »

I'd like to try and use the MAAS metal protector, if it was some where that I could find locally and if I didn't have to order it. It regards to trying to use some polish after the buffing routine, I bought some Mothers billet. Do you think that will work? Or is it strictly used for just the shine??

Also has anyone heard of this Zymol stuff?? It's supposed to be a cleaner wax.. It was around the same price as the Mother's Billet stuff ($14), I was just wondering if anyone has any experience using it..

JAG · « **Reply #69 on:** February 27, 2008, 05:57:23 PM »

what about this stuff?? Anyone have any luck with this??

It's some sort of wadding polish.. Never used it before, it's like a cloth material, and not a liquid/wax..

jalfonso · « **Reply #70 on:** February 28, 2008, 06:08:13 AM »

JAG,

My neighbor used Never Dull after he had polished the bits on his Kawasaki Voyager. He said it worked well for him. I can't say how long it will last because it was just done just recently. Based on good things I've heard about Zoop Seal, I purchased one of their kits and plan on using that when I finish polishing up my 550. It's supposed to seal the metal and last for a couple of years. I guess I'll find out soon enough!

Keep up the good work.

John

Johnie · « **Reply #71 on:** February 28, 2008, 07:51:33 AM »

I tried some Never Dull on my rims and it looks OK, but leaves a wet film on like Armour All does on your seat. So I just went with the Mass.

Tower · « **Reply #72 on:** February 28, 2008, 10:27:41 AM »

In order of reactivity with aluminum from least to most...

Never Dull uses petroleum hydrocarbons (hydrocarbon mixture, and triethanolamine),
MAAS uses hydrocarbons and aluminum as an abrasive (calcinated alumina) (hydrocarbon mixture, and triethanolamine) to dissolve and remove oxides.
Zymol uses the above plus wax and perfumes to mask the toxic smell.
Mothers Billet uses Sodium hydroxide, kerosene, waxes and perfumes.
Turtle wax uses aluminum oxides, kerosene, waxes and other solvents

Zoop Seal is a plastic/polymer that has several hardening and flowing chemicals added (like a thin ceramic paint). Its not reactive with aluminum once hardened. This product is similar to urethanes, polyurethanes, lacquers, ceramic and enamels in how it works. Reactivity to aluminum is negligible unless a caustic propellant is used in application.

mattcb350f · « **Reply #73 on:** February 28, 2008, 12:33:10 PM »

While were on topic, what to do with these now that there all blinged up?
Is a good coat of wax enough. I don't want to clear coat.

Other one's done now too.

Matt.

Tower · « **Reply #74 on:** February 28, 2008, 01:08:37 PM »

@mattcb350f, You might want to reconsider not coating. Remember this piece is going to be bombed by bugs, stones, etc. A nice hard coating might be a good idea.

I did mine "brushed" using 400 grit paper plus clear coat poly.

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Author Topic: First attempts at Polishing Aluminium (Read 20440 times)

RedMavrik

InaneCathode

InaneCathode