Topic: Engine paint recommendations....

[Gregorymoto]

Hi i have tried all that is listed, what i have found that works the best is POR products.
I use it for every thing motor, frame, and headers
I even painted my helmet.

This stuff is a 2 part paint that you will need to spray on with a air gun, i use a air brush and it works very well.

http://www.por15.com/prodinfo.asp?grp=EE&dept=7

This stuff is super scratch resistant.

good luck

[TEET76]

I used VHT when I first assembled my motor but I made a couple of mistakes and am repainting since I have my motor apart again anyway.  The first mistake is that I didn't turn the jugs upside down to paint them and when mounted on the bike you could see the imperfections from the bottom.  Second, I had to install my motor myself and made a bit of a mess with fingerprints etc so this time I'm going to wrap the pieces in saran wrap that I can tear off after I'm done.  I'm hoping the wrap doesn't stick to the paint but I don't think it will and I can do a test piece to make sure.

A note on saran wrap.  I used it like rope and wrapped my frame before taking the motor out and it works great and can be more easily removed than tape.

Great Idea with the saran.....I was thinking of covering the frame rails with the foam pipe insulation when I drop in the engine, but the saran wrap might work a bit better...Thanks!

[Sweep]

I used VHT when I first assembled my motor but I made a couple of mistakes and am repainting since I have my motor apart again anyway.  The first mistake is that I didn't turn the jugs upside down to paint them and when mounted on the bike you could see the imperfections from the bottom.  Second, I had to install my motor myself and made a bit of a mess with fingerprints etc so this time I'm going to wrap the pieces in saran wrap that I can tear off after I'm done.  I'm hoping the wrap doesn't stick to the paint but I don't think it will and I can do a test piece to make sure.

A note on saran wrap.  I used it like rope and wrapped my frame before taking the motor out and it works great and can be more easily removed than tape.

Just pull out a few feet at a time and twist/wad it up lengthwise like rope.


Great Idea with the saran.....I was thinking of covering the frame rails with the foam pipe insulation when I drop in the engine, but the saran wrap might work a bit better...Thanks!

[purf_man]

I am getting ready to paint and laying down a coat of self etching primer first.  friend used it on his LT250 (but then topped it with dollar store bbq paint)  the cheapy bbq paint flaked off but the primer has held up fine.

[Gregorymoto]

Take out the header studs as well.

[MRieck]

Take out the header studs as well.

Word.

[MRieck]

 I've used Duplicolor aluminum engine enamel on my cases twice. I used it on sparty's engine too. It has been very durable and I just use a good heat gun to harden it.

[UnCrash]

Heat Gun!

That's briilliant!

Additionally could you explain about removing the exhaust studs?

Thanks,

[MRieck]

 It is much easier getting the engine in and out of the frame with the exhaust studs removed

[UnCrash]

It is much easier getting the engine in and out of the frame with the exhaust studs removed

Well, I'll be a monkey's uncle...  That sure makes sense to me.

Seems I've done pulled the engine the hard way.  Fortunately your advise will help me put it in the easy way.

[TEET76]

It is much easier getting the engine in and out of the frame with the exhaust studs removed

Now ya tell me.....lol....I nearly put a stud through my forearm pulling this engine out....It seemed to come out alot easier though when I tipped the frame on it's side.....

[TEET76]

Canuck, Sounds...interesting....got any pics of that engine, I'd like to see the results

[aptech77]

Nice work on that bike aptech.

How did you clean out between the fins? 


Did you have to do anything to the fin edge to keep it polished?

Thanks

1. THX, 
2. Used a blast cabinet and then etched and alodined with an aviation product from work before I painted. No primer.
3. No, stays shiny.

[Gregorymoto]

Last note on the stud pulling, you can buy a stud driver, i paid $50 for mine through my PROTO guy i'm sure you can find it cheaper. I do suggest buying one.
But if you are on tight budget.
You can take 2 of the header nuts and back them up to eachother flat side to flat side at the lowest point of threads on the stud and then use two wrenches to back the stud out.

NOTE when you reinstall the stud in the header use anti seize on the threads. It will make it so much nicer when you pull them next time.

Good luck man

[MRieck]

Last note on the stud pulling, you can buy a stud driver, i paid $50 for mine through my PROTO guy i'm sure you can find it cheaper. I do suggest buying one.
But if you are on tight budget.
You can take 2 of the header nuts and back them up to eachother flat side to flat side at the lowest point of threads on the stud and then use two wrenches to back the stud out.

NOTE when you reinstall the stud in the header use anti seize on the threads. It will make it so much nicer when you pull them next time.

Good luck man

I've always doubled nutted the stud and used heat.I've had some header studs....especially late heads...that are really locked in and take out a lot of thread. A Helicoil later they are OK. I use stainless allen head bolts for the header now with the mentioned anti seize. The anti seize is key no  matter what you do. Nice call.

[nippon]

Harbor Freight offers small stud removers for +- 6.00 bucks,......they work.

[TEET76]

Thanks for the info guys.....I just finished buffing, and polishing all the aluminum covers...so I'm hoping to get the engine cleaned up, and masked off today so I can start painting. Great advice on the stud puller, I picked up 2 different sizes at my local harbor freight for less than $15...granted they arn't the best quality, but for as infrequent as they get used, they will do the trick.
One last question, before I get started....how does everyone "support" their engine while they clean it up and paint it? I did see a thread here with lots of different engine stand ideas, but I'm not rebuilding it, just painting it. I was thinking of sliding some round stock through the upper rear engine mount, and something similar for the front, then lifting the engine with my chainfall, and some lifting straps. Right now the engine is on my garage floor resting on 4 layers of flattened cardboard boxes...Thanks all!!

[paulages]

here is VHT aluminum "nu cast" and glossy black:

[paulages]

Paul, did you clear on top of that too? looks great! Where were those pics before I painted mine. That nu-cast is very vibrant. I'm off now to get me a can and redo my paint.

no, i learned my lesson about hi-temp clear the hard way...apparently it's not so hi-temp. turns brown. anyway, yeah- the VHT universal aluminum is a greyer color, more like the duplicolor that everyone likes for being so close to OEM paint. i like the nu-cast, because it really looks like bare aluminum--almost looks like you didn't paint at all.