Topic: some concerns...

[beerman]

hello, i'm new to the site, and i would like to say hi to everyone.  i've got a 1977 cb550four.  i love the bike, but we have some concerns before more riding can be done.  first of all, my headlight is out, where's a good place to find a replacement?  secondly, i have a bit of an oil leak.  it's leaking from the bottom of the engine somewhere.  i had thought it was the shifter, but i don't think so anymore.  and thirdly, my front brake keeps locking up.  i've had it apart many times, and it still doesn't seem to work right.  i've had it running and it seems to run very well, i will be looking for some different exhaust in the future, because it's way to quite for me.  thanks for any help. 

beerman

[jbailey]

You can buy a headlight at any auto parts store for under $10.  Make sure you get a halogen.  I don't recall the number.  You neeed a 7" round.  The connector is the same just a simple swap.

You can also get a headlight housing that allows the use of H4 bulbs.  These are more expensive initially, but you can get brighter bulbs for it.  Be careful though because a 100W will overtax your old electrical system.

If you mainly dive during the day and occasionally at night when accidently staying out too late like I do, a regular halogen will do just fine.

As far as the oil leak, clean up everything on the bottom and it should be clearer where the oil is leaking from.

My front brake froze up solid on me last year.  I had to completely disassemble the caliper and cleaned up the piston with 0000 steel wool.  I replaced the seal for $5 at the local Honda dealer.  Be sure to use silicone brake grease when reassembling since this is what keeps moisture from getting to the piston.  Also, don't store your bike outdoors.

[bryanj]

Headlamp--Any 7 inch headlamp will fit

Oil leak--shifter seal; oil pressure switch; oil pump cover in order of usual cause

Brake lock up--pivot pin; bleed hole in master cylinder; blocked lines in order

[Uncle Ernie]

Old fart way of finding oil leak origins; Clean everything spotless and let dry thoroughly.  While you're waiting, go to the store and get some athletes foot spray in a can.  Spray everything in the area of concern liberally.  Put a GOOD flashlight (torch if you're from England) in your pocket and go for a ride. About every five miles get off the bike and look for the wet spot.
       
                                                                                                              ... of oil

[Bob Wessner]

Another old fart way is to clean/dry, ride and then dust with foot powder, it will stick to the oil, but this old fart likes your way better. 

[eldar]

My front brake would not work properly. I took the caliper apart and then uses a wire wheel on a dremel to clean it out. Remove the seal frst though. WHat happens is that moisture is attracted to DOT3 fluid. It dries and makes a white crust that prevents the brake from operating properly.  Cleaning out the master is also good. You may as well do it since brakes work better for stopping than a face does.

[Uncle Ernie]

Bob- the spraycan has the powder in it, so you start out with a white engine. Pretty much the same idea, but you can see the leak sooner (plus it's hard to throw powder up underneath).

[TwoTired]

Just a warning about rebuilding the caliper. Although any corrosion or deposits you find must be removed to clean the caliper, do not use any tool that is made of steel.  Steel wool, wire brushes, etc. will all leave tiny particles embedded in the softer alluminum.  When water bridges the aluminum and steel particles, galvanic corrosion results, and the aluminum is sacrificed during that action.  Brake fluid is indeed hydroscopic, and well pull moisture out of the atmosphere.
Although the steel tools will make everything look good when you put it together, the rebuild will not have the longevity as new.
Aluminum oxide papers, silicon papers, and nylon abrasive pads such as Scotchbrite all remove surface contamination from aluminum safely.

Another product good for finding leaks, hairline cracks, etc. is spray can K2R.  Sprays on with a powder and solvent.  the solvent draws out the oil and the powder holds it where it exits the vessel so you can find the origin.

Good luck,

[Bob Wessner]

(plus it's hard to throw powder up underneath).

Exactly, that's why I thought it was a better idea. As a matter of fact, I'm going to give it a try this week to try and track down some dribbles.

[beerman]

hey thanks for all the help, i'll be tackling that tonight...

[eldar]

A brass wire wheel works good For cleaning the caliper when using the dremel.