Author Topic: Tach disassembly...pics (Read 10860 times)

babyfood1217 · « **on:** January 31, 2008, 06:43:37 PM »

So as my bike re-rebuild continues, it seems little things keep popping up, and I thought I would try to document my resolutions as best I could. Who knows, maybe someone else could benefit.

The most recent issue I have tackled is my tachometer. It functins well, but I wanted to address three aspects about it which didn't fit my my ideas. First, I wanted to eliminate the moisture and residue which seemed to build up inside the unit during either long periods of use or just a hot day. Second, I wanted to get rid of the green face color and match it with white (the color of my replacement speedo.) Lastly, I wanted to touch up the redline on the tach face and the red tip of the tach needle, as they seemed to have faded long ago.

So here is my tach before I attacked it. If you look carefully, you can notice a slight discoloration on the tach face. That is the residue of whatever sort that I hope to remove.

babyfood1217 · « **Reply #1 on:** January 31, 2008, 06:45:28 PM »

Here is the ring I need to remove in order to get at the tach face. Some people cut it, and some people other people pry it open. I will pry it, as I want to reuse it, and I want it to look decent afterwards.

babyfood1217 · « **Reply #2 on:** January 31, 2008, 06:47:41 PM »

Here is the flatnose pliers I used as the primary tool in removing the ring. I actually filed 1/16th of an inch down on one side to assist in the process, and I'm glad I did. I was much easier after I filed it down than it was before. These pliers are available at most hobby or craft shops (I got mine from riogrande.com - my jeweler supply website.)

babyfood1217 · « **Reply #3 on:** January 31, 2008, 06:48:58 PM »

And this is the tiny flathead screwdriver I needed a couple times. For the ring removal I only used it once, but they come in handy. Craftsman brand not necessary, but thin and small is.

babyfood1217 · « **Reply #4 on:** January 31, 2008, 06:50:29 PM »

I carefully inserted the blade of the screwdriver underneath the backide of the stainless retaining ring. Approaching from the back will make it easier to clean in during reassembly.

babyfood1217 · « **Reply #5 on:** January 31, 2008, 06:51:44 PM »

I then simply twisted the screwdriver. In twisting, you must be sure to lift up enough to allow the end of the pliers to slide underneath/inside the opening.

babyfood1217 · « **Reply #6 on:** January 31, 2008, 06:54:00 PM »

Here I am about to slide the plier end into the opening I just created with the screwdriver. Looking carefully you can see how the lower portion of the pliers has been trimmed slightly. Trimming this jaw will make the job easier (less slipping) and leave less noticeable marks on the ring itself.

babyfood1217 · « **Reply #7 on:** January 31, 2008, 06:55:54 PM »

Lower jaw inserted...

about to apply pressure...

pressure applied...

babyfood1217 · « **Reply #8 on:** January 31, 2008, 06:58:52 PM »

sorry for the blurry pic, but here you can see the area that was attended to. With just a simple squeeze of the pliers, the back side of the ring is opened up enough to clear the lip of the rear chromed housing. Obviously with the size of pliers you'll be dealing with, the last few steps will need to be repeated over and over, but it doesn't tear the stainless retaining ring, and that means you can reuse it later without JB Weld or a hoe clamp.

babyfood1217 · « **Reply #9 on:** January 31, 2008, 06:59:39 PM »

Here is the ring, removed without any permanent harm.

babyfood1217 · « **Reply #10 on:** January 31, 2008, 07:02:15 PM »

Here is my spread after completely disassembling the tachometer unit. A small flathead and phillips screwdriver, a flatnose pliers, and a small wrench (crescent is all I had at the time) will take you from dismounting the tach from your bike to the complete disassembly.

FunJimmy · « **Reply #11 on:** January 31, 2008, 07:36:18 PM »

Great thread!
I am just about to tackle the same thing.

Can you be more specific about the pliers mod?
Did you grind the serrations from the jaws so they wouldn’t damage the ring or thin the jaws to aid in getting under the ring?

FJ

babyfood1217 · « **Reply #12 on:** January 31, 2008, 08:05:56 PM »

Since I purchased from the jewelry supplier, there were no serrations on the jaw. If there were serrations on it, I would have ground them off. I used a flexshaft (high quality dremel) to shave down the 1/16", and would do the same to the serrations if I needed to. And the small pliers I have, since designed for jewelry work, were thin enough already. A person could trim the serration and shavethe thickness on a standard needlenose if they had them, but this is what I had so it didn't need to much modification.

-chris

CBJoe · « **Reply #13 on:** January 31, 2008, 08:12:09 PM »

You're posting these so fast that i can pretend that i'm watching TV

techy5025 · « **Reply #14 on:** January 31, 2008, 09:05:58 PM »

So, is the face transparent and illuminated from the back or is it solid and edge illuminated from the front? The reason I ask is the replacement faces you can order from the pricey Japanese place go over the existing face and would seem to block any rear illumination.

Jim

andy750 · « **Reply #15 on:** February 01, 2008, 05:22:53 AM »

Great thread and photos - really clear instructions which give me confidence to try it myself.
Thanks for posting!
cheers
Andy

babyfood1217 · « **Reply #16 on:** February 01, 2008, 05:44:17 AM »

I can only speak for my tach face ('76 750k) and am unsure of earlier years or other models (but you will find dozens of posts regarding this topic), but my face is opaque and lit from the back. I'm hoping to find/make a vinyl face decal to cover completely the original.

cafe750 · « **Reply #17 on:** February 01, 2008, 06:32:11 AM »

I have one question. How do you get the needle off?

Johnie · « **Reply #18 on:** February 01, 2008, 07:06:31 AM »

Needle comes off pretty easy with 2 spoons on each side under the stem and just bring it right off.

MRieck · « **Reply #19 on:** February 01, 2008, 07:15:40 AM »

Nice thread with good pics.

newcbguy · « **Reply #20 on:** February 01, 2008, 08:47:55 AM »

I understand the method but how are you going to reshape the ring after you demolished it?

babyfood1217 · « **Reply #21 on:** February 01, 2008, 10:53:59 AM »

As soon as I get my new face taken care, I will document and post reassembly pics, but that small flatnose pliers will come in handy once again, but will need to be modded once again. I'll explain. In the meantime, if anyone can send me a vector file of a clean white face, I'll print it out and finish this project up.

chris

p.s.-the ring is not demolished, simply opened up. That was the point of a thin jaw flat pliers...

babyfood1217 · « **Reply #22 on:** February 01, 2008, 01:15:21 PM »

Funny thing is about those vector files...I'm sitting in my computer graphics/multimedia lab right now. The G5 in front of me has the most recent update of Adobe illustrator on it, and I could make a vector file myself, but as simple as it would be, I just don't have the time (I know I know..."stop ranting and create then!") Maybe I'll get one made this weekend if I can sneak in here again. Its' tough too as everyone wants a different type. Damnit. I'll just do it. I will make a .ai file for a face that is white, clean, and maintains factory marking locations.

FunJimmy · « **Reply #23 on:** February 01, 2008, 01:27:29 PM »

Chris

You'll be the man if you can alter it enough for the 550 crowd too.

Thanks in advance.
Jimmy

babyfood1217 · « **Reply #24 on:** February 01, 2008, 01:32:58 PM »

if you can measure a gauge face from you bike and send the picture and dimensions, I might be able to play around...

babyfood1217 · « **Reply #25 on:** February 01, 2008, 01:45:42 PM »

remember though, I only have a '76 cb750k face to go from. I don't know how the F's differ, much less the other bikes models. Pics and measurements of faces can be posted here or emailed to babyfood1217@hotmail.com. And to anyone who sends/posts something: don't be pushy about getting files posted. School comes first. I mean it.

-chris

FunJimmy · « **Reply #26 on:** February 10, 2008, 10:39:25 AM »

Chris

How are the gauges coming along?

Did you verctor graphics pan out?

Jimmy

babyfood1217 · « **Reply #27 on:** February 10, 2008, 04:16:48 PM »

They (the ones I started) is coming along quite nicely. I imported an image of someone elses gauge face with a scanner, and locked it down in Adobe illustrator so I could trace everything. Just trying to get angles of the tick marks right, then to find a good font for the numerals and letters. Should be posted up here in a couple of days, but I haven't had a chance to share this idea with the local sign/decal shop yet. Soon soon..

-Chris

gregimotis · « **Reply #28 on:** February 10, 2008, 09:40:43 PM »

'Face vectors'... blah blah...Adobe...blah... How do I put it back together already?!? I'm dying to take mine apart just to prove I can.

BTW - Didn't somebody around here have some custom faces for sale with 50's era pin-up girls on them? That's something I could get behind.

JerryRice · « **Reply #29 on:** August 19, 2008, 09:41:21 PM »

Is there a reassembly thread?

JerryRice · « **Reply #30 on:** August 21, 2008, 09:20:43 AM »

I have this gauge. Where can I get white faces?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=009&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=190244319063&rd=1

dustyc · « **Reply #31 on:** August 21, 2008, 09:24:40 AM »

I might be able to help you with those Jerry. I'm sending you a PM.

JerryRice · « **Reply #32 on:** August 21, 2008, 09:37:57 AM »

dustyc · « **Reply #33 on:** August 21, 2008, 09:43:33 AM »

I guess you got the PM with the pics then.

dustyc · « **Reply #34 on:** August 21, 2008, 09:45:47 AM »

One more I didn't add that I'm currently doing for Nick.

SKTP · « **Reply #35 on:** August 21, 2008, 11:05:06 AM »

Thanks for this...

NickC · « **Reply #36 on:** August 21, 2008, 11:51:29 AM »

Thanks again dusty!

dustyc · « **Reply #37 on:** August 22, 2008, 05:37:21 PM »

Yeah, they're meant to go over the old faces. The cutouts are just for illustration purposes. Here are what the actual printed gauges look like. I throw in a new exacto blade with a set.

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Author Topic: Tach disassembly...pics (Read 10860 times)

newcbguy