Author Topic: 1980 CB650c Rest-o by a crabby "old-timer" (Read 129717 times)

Frankenkit · « **Reply #225 on:** February 05, 2009, 08:48:48 PM »

'k, so I tried to splurge for myself and get a tool box cover, the little rubber band on it, and the owner's manual baggie. All that is about $24, and none of that is available anymore.

I was bumming around feeBay and couldn't find any of what I wanted, but then found... an owner's manual for a 1980 CB650c. My exact model and year.

Mine, for the cost of just one of the little vinyl manual baggies that Honda no longer provides.

Item # 330303814821

Hush · « **Reply #226 on:** February 06, 2009, 12:27:55 AM »

Stop peeing around on Fleabay, go start your bike, I wanna know if the solenoid cleaning

improved your starting!

Frankenkit · « **Reply #227 on:** February 06, 2009, 09:10:16 AM »

Yeah, yeah, yeah, Hush.

Just one more thing.
*cringes from impending DOOM*
I hate my crash bar. It's massive, it's heavy, it's a PITA to install/remove, and I HAVE to do so before I can do anything with my headers/exhaust. Oh, and I have to take it off to change my oil. Every Time. Because it's a fire-breathing PITA, it also gets real close to my headers, and there's a bit of vibration around there, too, which I try to ignore, but.... it's a fire-breathing PITA.
I decided $60 was worth the price, since I've once paid that much for a bar that was so road-rashed and beat up that I was serious p!ssed on delivery.
These are NOS and still in the package, dammit.

Plus they have a nice minimalist look and bolt right onto the frame, which I'm happy about.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250367403975

That's the last of my MC toys for a while, and I could justify that only because I don't really think I need coils anymore after changing plugs, plug wires and caps. ...and they make maintenance SO much easier, they HAVE to be lighter than the behemoth bar I have on now... etc etc.
I wanted to go without, but just don't feel okay without having some kind of case protection on a bike I've worked SO hard on.
...so that's all my story, and I'm stickin' to it.

Really? · « **Reply #228 on:** February 06, 2009, 09:24:07 AM »

So, would you say it's a fire-breathing PITA?

Frankenkit · « **Reply #229 on:** February 06, 2009, 09:36:57 AM »

I would, good sir, I would indeed.

mystic_1 · « **Reply #230 on:** February 06, 2009, 10:47:57 AM »

Good move on the case guards, Kit. I think that style is much more stylish than the Huge Hoop of Chrome style of bar, except for on full sized dressers.

Next time you go down (heaven forbid, knock on wood) or drop the bike you'll be glad all you have to replace is a pair of $60 case guards

mystic_1

Frankenkit · « **Reply #231 on:** February 06, 2009, 10:50:12 AM »

the Huge Hoop of Chrome was kinda nice when I set it down when the sidestand didn't lock into place, just because the bike didn't go all the way down onto its side, then, but yeah, it's much more a dresser style, and with the high rpms these bikes like, I have a hard time thinking of my 650 as a dresser type bike anymore.

Hush · « **Reply #232 on:** February 07, 2009, 07:22:14 PM »

You should see my crash bars girl, like a full stock car roll cage, front bars and rear ones too!

Frankenkit · « **Reply #233 on:** February 07, 2009, 10:23:40 PM »

...and if any of your police bike pics were bigger than a postage stamp, I would, my man!

Hush · « **Reply #234 on:** February 08, 2009, 03:34:05 AM »

Oh sorry, just bought new computer, has VISTA on it, I hate VISTA and VISTA hates me!

Bring back my Windows XP damitt!
Wont let me copy or save photos for some reason, probably user error or fault somewhere between the seat and the keyboard!

MickeyX · « **Reply #235 on:** February 09, 2009, 03:19:14 PM »

Hey, I just found this today, Kit. It's a good general diagram to follow to check the charging system. It seems pretty easy to understand as long as you know what settings to put the multimeter on. Then just use the amounts that are specific to your bike, although, these seem pretty close.

http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/library/diagnosis/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf

Looking at the diagram, what we've already checked/fixed, I'm thinking the brushes may be the culprit. Maybe?

Frankenkit · « **Reply #236 on:** February 18, 2009, 07:13:51 PM »

Dear Diary,
Those engine guards were a #$%* and a half to put on. How can something so simple devolve into something so difficult?
The right side went on with great ease, half an inch to spare over the exhaust.
The left, however, needed about a quarter inch of room yet before it would clear the exhaust, despite the mounting points all lining up. It turns out the headers were bent. Great. Because I'm a broke-ass college student, I did the next best thing to getting new headers etc.
I took a hammer to those sons 'o birches.
I gently massaged (lol) a depression enough to clear the bottom of the engine guard, though new headers are on my list as an eventuality. It'll be hard to find headers as clean and rustless as these are. Ugh.

Got an idea from a site I was looking at for a leather wrap for my case guards. Seems a lot of harley etc folks have them with fringes and crap but the idea is to protect your guards from little minor crap (bike take a nap when you forgot the sidestand? etc) and I liked the concept because I'm such a klutz and these case guards are a) hard to find b) new. I had an old pair of buffalo hide moccasins I didn't wear anymore that I'd made, so I measured them up, cut them to size, then laced them around the bottom loop of my engine guard so they're pretty innocuous, not terribly attention grabbing, but the thickest damn leather I can think of. They look good, if I say so myself. Pics later so y'all can decide for yourselves. I don't like gaudy stuff, but this seemed simple, utilitarian, and best of all, FREE so I went with it. I realize it won't do anything at all in a wreck at speed, but I suspect I'm more likely to just drop the bike standing there.

For the sake of symmetry and to nip up an exhaust leak on the OTHER side (y'know, the side that the guard fit on right) I replaced those exhaust gaskets, too.

Started D (why does it have to be such a darn fight getting her started for the first time after awhile?!) and got her warmed up. She sounds great warmed up. Can't say she warmed up more quickly, or more easily, but she sounded very solid, smooth and deep. Tolerated being idled down to 1100 and sounded smooth even there. (which is what Honda says she should be at)

Read through my owner's manual and adjusted various odds and ends per the manual. (oh, and stuck my new-old owner's manual under my side cover with new velcro. Point of interest, my manual says 55/60w halogens are what my bike runs, so it's not my light running my battery down or damaging my charging system's efficiency. Must be something else.

Test in biology tomorrow, in addition to a lab. Gotta study and be a good student, so Friday is my next clear Bikey day, and I'm gonna take Delilah down to the carwashing spot in our apartment complex and give her her first real washing.

Woohoo!

Oh, btw, I was under the bike (on purpose) looking at stuff, found the grease zerk for the swingarm, but it looked like it had some kinda little metal cap on it? Is that the case? What kinda grease should I use on it, as I'm relatively sure by the 1/2" of crap on top of it, that it hasn't been opened or greased in quite some time.

oh, and Hush, I haven't noticed a ton of difference after cleaning the solenoid... but the good news? I haven't noticed a ton of difference, so I don't think I broke anything, either!

Hush · « **Reply #237 on:** February 19, 2009, 02:10:17 AM »

Yo Kit, does your bike love you more if you fully charge the battery then try to start it?
I know mine loves a full charge, lack of riding I put mine down to.
I don't know why you are studying medicine when a lucrative panelbeaters job awaits one with your hammer skills.

You could have slackened the headers and that might have made way for your new monkey-bars, but I'm much more enjoying the mental picture of you swinging an angry hammer at your bike lol.
That metal pimple you correctly identified is the swingarm grease nipple (see biology at work) and why Honda hid it from owners there I do not know?
Possibly after market sales of swingarms were envisaged by the Honda board when the 650's started seizing theirs up.
My 650 has a wee addition that I think the cops must have added to make servicing easier, it's an extention tube that runs from the nipple up to just below the battery and is mounted on a small bracket (I'll get a picture tomorrow) which must make filling the swingarm a breeze.

Frankenkit · « **Reply #238 on:** February 19, 2009, 08:12:40 AM »

ok. another question. Another stupid, stupid question...
is my bike supposed to run a battery breather tube, cuz I don't have one installed. I can see where it's supposed to run and all, but I just... don't have one. Could that be affecting my charging?

Soos · « **Reply #239 on:** February 19, 2009, 08:24:08 AM »

They are recommended.... but not the deal breaker for a daily rider.

I have one for my 650... but it's not hooked up(another touch up before full on riding season).

You risk Possibly releasing some of the liquid from the battery.
It can eat paint, hurt your skin, and kill a o-ring chain.

...'eh, go get some tubing of the correct diameter if worried.

l8r

Soos · « **Reply #240 on:** February 19, 2009, 08:24:32 AM »

Whats the weather like in oregon this time of year?

l8r

mystic_1 · « **Reply #241 on:** February 19, 2009, 08:43:25 AM »

Lack of a battery vent tube won't affect charging.

mystic_1

Frankenkit · « **Reply #242 on:** February 19, 2009, 09:01:52 AM »

Soos, the weather's lovely. =( I wish I could be going out and playing instead of going to school.

I need to see if I can find said spigot on my actual battery. The sad, yellowed tube that was for the batt. drain looked like it'd been melted off in the end, so I got rid of it. At least now I can see where it goes. Need to get longer carb drain tubing too. Glad there's an actual place for those to go, instead of sitting in a messy pigtail and leaking all over my engine in the event of a... well.... leak.

Hush · « **Reply #243 on:** February 19, 2009, 02:13:04 PM »

As Soos said Kit, the drain tube is optional....I don't have any on my Honda, just something else to weave through the frame and wiring and my battery is alaways out for charging cos I don't ride enough.

Thouse carb drain tubes however are a good idea, route them along the motor and straight out the back about where your back wheel is.
I've often thought a colour code for them would be great so you knew which stinking carb was leaking this time but I think they only come in black.

Hush · « **Reply #244 on:** February 19, 2009, 03:31:32 PM »

As TT said many options he he

Here is what my bike has for greasing the swing arm, the shot from underneath is a bit hard to work out but if you can see the wee blue tube running from the swingarm nipple that goes to the extension the MOT put on to ease servicing of their bikes.

Frankenkit · « **Reply #245 on:** February 19, 2009, 04:56:47 PM »

very nice, very nice. mine is just a little silver nipple nubbin that appears to have some kind of metal cap on it but I'm not sure. Didn't have much chance to dig around at it. I don't really know a zerk from a hole in my head so I thought I'd ask. I'd assume I'd use a grease gun to lube it, but what kind of grease should I use? My honda service manual is really vague (i.e. Grease here, here, and here, but no type mentioned) and I know there are a lot of types out there and not all are compatible.

Is it common for unsealed acid batteries to NOT have vents, because unless I hadn't seen mine because I wasn't looking for it, I don't know that mine has one. (and it's cold and I just took my shoes off so looking is going to wait for tomorrow.) However, when I charge, I do see the (Hydroxide?) gas bubbles form on the plates... so I'd think optimally there would be some sort of vent...

Tomorrow, I'm going to ride down to the carwash part of our apartment lot and give her a real bath. Bought some hondabrite from the local shop b/c it seemed most applicable (among all the claims there) and was the most 'cost efficient'. How much should I worry about cool water/hot engine? I'm guessing I should probably ride over, then let the bike sit awhile until I can put my hand on the head. Is that excessive or just right? First time I've done this...

Hush · « **Reply #246 on:** February 19, 2009, 08:24:51 PM »

Not sure what sort of grease to use Kit but don't worry too much about the engine heat and cold water, some guys ride in snow so a little cold water wont do any damage.
Even our rain here in the Colonies is a tad coolish.

mystic_1 · « **Reply #247 on:** February 19, 2009, 10:28:30 PM »

An unsealed battery is, by definition, vented. The question is how. Some I've seen have a small breather hole in the top of the battery itself, but with most motorcycle batteries there's a little tab that sticks out from one edge of the top, that has a nipple underneath for the vent hose.

Re: washing, the bigger worry with a hot engine is, when you apply your soapy water or whatever, the water will evaporate off very quickly, leaving you with a soapy residue that needs to be scrubbed off. Hosing it down with cool water first will help avoid this (and it's a good idea to rinse loose dust off first with the hose, anyway, since rubbing it with a cloth will cause scratches in paint and plastic), but use some judgment. If your headers are glowing red, you probably don't want to dump super-chilled saline on them for example.

Other bike washing tips,

Old paint brushes, or new cheap ones, are a great way to get down into crevices and between fins.

Don't get too close with the hose, don't want to force water through seals and gaskets.

Keep water out of the intake system.

Never armor-all seats, grips, or tires.

Oil your chain after washing the bike.

Cover the seat with plastic, or take it off entirely, to avoid wet-ass-syndrome afterwards.

mystic_1

Hush · « **Reply #248 on:** February 19, 2009, 10:32:51 PM »

Great advice Mystic, ....talk about Murphy's law.....went to start bike and battery flat!

Soos · « **Reply #249 on:** February 20, 2009, 07:13:48 AM »

Quote from: TwoTired on February 19, 2009, 02:28:47 PM

That tube is also a vent. Where Hydrogen and oxygen can escape during charge or discharge conditions. An abundance of oxygen promotes oxidation, on those denuded components that previously received an acid bath, for example.
The vent also releases sulfuric acid vapors. While not as aggressive as direct contact with an acid solution, this does hasten the oxidation of electrical contacts in the vicinity, like battery terminals, and electrical harness connections.

Ok, i'm off to hook mine back up... immediately!

Last thing I need is to SPEED UP the electrical degradation of 30 year old electrical parts...
Been doing everything I can think of to prevent any electrical drains or failures.
...short of a completely soldered together wiring harness eliminating the connectors...

Again too tired... THNX for enlightening a idiot to reality. !
You ever wonder how many really bad electrical mistakes have been avoided(let alone fixed) with too tired's help?

As for grease... something meant for high pressure applications.
Wheel bearing grease is what I use.
And yeah it is in a somewhat odd place.
I really like the design for the swingarm bolt off the 750, the grease zirc is on the end of the bolt itself. Or the one I had was.

l8r

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Author Topic: 1980 CB650c Rest-o by a crabby "old-timer" (Read 129717 times)