Topic: Let's help create the "HONDAMAN SPECIAL"

[andy750]

Jonesy how is this different from the 17` sprocket sold by Z1 Enterprises? (JT Sprockets)

cheers
Andy

[754]

The one shown may have a thicker center, like stock.

I have ripped the middle out on a lflat one, which welded to the mainshaft.. which meant re & re the motor & split cases to replace!!... did it in one night though..

Major PITA to pay entry fee & travel, then make 2 runs then break.....

[DarkRider]

I would be def down for one of the books...im assuming a lot of the info could be applied to the 550s as well?

[fuzzybutt]

i'm down for a book too

[Jonesy]

Jonesy how is this different from the 17` sprocket sold by Z1 Enterprises? (JT Sprockets)

cheers
Andy

Figures... a few years back when I was looking for one Z1 didn't offer it. I'm not sure what kind of steel the JT sproket is made from...

[MRieck]

Jonesy how is this different from the 17` sprocket sold by Z1 Enterprises? (JT Sprockets)

cheers
Andy

Figures... a few years back when I was looking for one Z1 didn't offer it. I'm not sure what kind of steel the JT sproket is made from...

The JT's are very good....better than the SunStar IMO.

[Jonesy]

I've run both and so far, I don't really see any difference between the two, but the first one (18T JT) I retired after 4 seasons in favor of the 17T SunStar. The JT still had plenty of life left in it.

[HondaMan]

I have a 72K motor that has around 5g on it, but it is stuck.

He can have that if we can figure out how to get it to him.

G. Mountain

Can you get an estimate from someone on shipping that K2 engine? I'm in Colorado, at ZIP 80232.

[Gregorymoto]

Hay all just back from Playa Del Carmen MEX,
What fun me and the Wife had, i Love Mexico.
I saw a few odd motorcycles there 40's 50's vintage most of them Italian and a few German (i think) I'll post some pics latter after i unpack.

I received a response from My friend at World Pack. He cant help with cross US shipping only out of the US. He farms out his interstate work to different trucking companies.

He did how ever give me the name and number of a guy hear in San Francisco that might be-able to help.
I'm going to send him an email latter on today, after i catch up on post and email.

[Ichiban 4]

I'd like to back up what Jonesy said a little while back about the NTN bearings as subs for Timken.   As Hondaman probably knows..Timken has always been known for their tapered roller bearings..in fact think they had them patented years ago.  Ball bearings by them weren't their main forte'..though Timken's quality control has always been top notch.

Same situation with SKF and German bearings..excellent quality..but no longer necessarily the best.

Through similar thought process as Hondaman..I too assumed a few years back..that Timken would simply be the best in terms of tolerances, quality control.  But found upon further research that NTN is actually better than old ball bearing Timkens..as Jonesey was suggesting.   

I think there's still residual sentiment that Japanese manufacturers (which NTN is)..while making "good" products..don't necessarily make the best.  Seems that the Japanese manufacturing methods for making balls for the bearings are now the most accurate, consistent in the world.  And..according to mechanics and engineer reports I've seen..NTN is what many manufacturers (electric motors, cars, motorcycles, aircraft) specify.

Just wanted to pass this on....

Ichi

[BobbyR]

I'd like to back up what Jonesy said a little while back about the NTN bearings as subs for Timken.   As Hondaman probably knows..Timken has always been known for their tapered roller bearings..in fact think they had them patented years ago.  Ball bearings by them weren't their main forte'..though Timken's quality control has always been top notch.

Same situation with SKF and German bearings..excellent quality..but no longer necessarily the best.

Through similar thought process as Hondaman..I too assumed a few years back..that Timken would simply be the best in terms of tolerances, quality control.  But found upon further research that NTN is actually better than old ball bearing Timkens..as Jonesey was suggesting.   

I think there's still residual sentiment that Japanese manufacturers (which NTN is)..while making "good" products..don't necessarily make the best.  Seems that the Japanese manufacturing methods for making balls for the bearings are now the most accurate, consistent in the world.  And..according to mechanics and engineer reports I've seen..NTN is what many manufacturers (electric motors, cars, motorcycles, aircraft) specify.

Just wanted to pass this on....

Ichi

I work for a Japanese manufacturer and all of our Railcars use Timken bearings. When they are substituted it is with SKF. They are changed every 7 years which equates to over 1 Million miles between changes.
I guess our head bearings aren't under nearly the stress. I probably should change mine for no other reason than age.     

[MRieck]

 I thought Timken does more metal alloy research/production now?

[HondaMan]

I'd like to back up what Jonesy said a little while back about the NTN bearings as subs for Timken.   As Hondaman probably knows..Timken has always been known for their tapered roller bearings..in fact think they had them patented years ago.  Ball bearings by them weren't their main forte'..though Timken's quality control has always been top notch.

Same situation with SKF and German bearings..excellent quality..but no longer necessarily the best.

Through similar thought process as Hondaman..I too assumed a few years back..that Timken would simply be the best in terms of tolerances, quality control.  But found upon further research that NTN is actually better than old ball bearing Timkens..as Jonesey was suggesting.   

I think there's still residual sentiment that Japanese manufacturers (which NTN is)..while making "good" products..don't necessarily make the best.  Seems that the Japanese manufacturing methods for making balls for the bearings are now the most accurate, consistent in the world.  And..according to mechanics and engineer reports I've seen..NTN is what many manufacturers (electric motors, cars, motorcycles, aircraft) specify.

Just wanted to pass this on....

Ichi

I think you're right about Japanese accuracy with their parts, as they work day & night to get consistency. The only place I've seen them fall down: hard metals. They tend to engineer to a given stress point, then make the most of it, using the least expensive material they can. This always makes it seem that they are offering "more for the money", as their systems wear well together, for the most part. But, it's also been my experience that their roller and ball bearings, in particular, cannot take shock loads for very long before dimpling (auto wheels bearings included). On the 2 occasions when I had a Rockwell tester available, and tested the bearing races I had on hand, the hardness order was: Timken, SKF, then the Japanese/Korean units. I haven't had an opportunity to test Chinese ones yet. 

For steering head bearings in particular: the Japanese "kits" out there (mine came in a green box, NTN inside) have proven short-lived, requiring tightening about 3 times per year as the metals move around. I've installed these on numerous Hondas, and on a friend's Kaw 1000, with similar results. Disappointing, after my long-lived Timkens.

That's why I'm trying to make an ID grinder jig for my lathe, so I can finish my next set of Timkens. 

[754]

That should only take an afternoon..

let me know if you need help or ideas.

The trick will be to take most of it out with a carbide, then finish grind.

Quick and dirty, mount a die grinder on the toolpost..

[HondaMan]

That should only take an afternoon..
Quick and dirty, mount a die grinder on the toolpost..

That's what I'm gonna try. On a warm afternoon. 

[Terry in Australia]

I machined up an alloy bracket to mount a "Dremel knockoff" on my lathe for modifying the OD on some bearing cups a few years ago, and it works very well indeed! Cheers, Terry.

[HondaMan]

Here we go....I found 2/3 of a 750K2, vintage 12/72, in a local boneyard. Then I picked up the  rear wheel, complete, and the other missing swingarm parts I needed as well. Investment to this point for bike #1: $350.

Total "HS Edition" bikes on order already: 3. 

The book's pix will start with this poor hulk.

Estimated selling price ranges: $2500-$3500. Let's see how it goes!

Things I could use at this point for bike #1:
1. Gas tank, K1-K4 OK. Little rust inside, will blast off the outside. Having the petcock would help.
2. Working handlebar switches.
3. Master cylinder in decent outside finish condition (I can rebuild it).
4. Inside half (!) of the front brake disc caliper (or a whole one...).

I'll update this list on occasion...

[Jonesy]

Mark-

Let me know when you need Honda Pipes....

[HondaMan]

Mark-

Let me know when you need Honda Pipes....

Oooooo...I'm glad you said that: Pipes!
I haven't the cash at the moment, but I need a set of 4. HM341 pipes would be fine. As far as I know, the future owner of this first one wants stock pipes. Others may want a header. 

What do you have in your corral?

[Jonesy]

Mark-

Let me know when you need Honda Pipes....

Oooooo...I'm glad you said that: Pipes!
I haven't the cash at the moment, but I need a set of 4. HM341 pipes would be fine. As far as I know, the future owner of this first one wants stock pipes. Others may want a header. 

What do you have in your corral?

I have a set of HM341's, with what looks to be the earlier 5-baffle setup (counting the rows of spot welds on the backsides). Oddly enough, I got them off of eBay 4 years ago for some guy in Colorado!

The pipes aren't perfect, as you might expect for being used originals. A couple of them have some small pinholes along the bottom, which I patched up with JB Weld. The upper right muffler has a hole up near the tip. It's not from rust, as it is perfectly round and the metal around it is caved in a little, like someone deliberately punched a hole in it. I plugged it with metal epoxy and covered it with metal foil. (at 10 yards and 40MPH, I figured no one would notice  ) There are also a few oil stains baked on to the header pipes where they pass under the engine.

Also, all the stand bumpers, foot guards, and other misc. related hardware would need to be obtained. The black diffuser caps are in the ends of the pipes.

I can get pics if you want. PM me for more detailed info.

[HondaMan]

Mark-

Let me know when you need Honda Pipes....

Oooooo...I'm glad you said that: Pipes!
I haven't the cash at the moment, but I need a set of 4. HM341 pipes would be fine. As far as I know, the future owner of this first one wants stock pipes. Others may want a header. 

What do you have in your corral?

I have a set of HM341's, with what looks to be the earlier 5-baffle setup (counting the rows of spot welds on the backsides). Oddly enough, I got them off of eBay 4 years ago for some guy in Colorado!

The pipes aren't perfect, as you might expect for being used originals. A couple of them have some small pinholes along the bottom, which I patched up with JB Weld. The upper right muffler has a hole up near the tip. It's not from rust, as it is perfectly round and the metal around it is caved in a little, like someone deliberately punched a hole in it. I plugged it with metal epoxy and covered it with metal foil. (at 10 yards and 40MPH, I figured no one would notice  ) There are also a few oil stains baked on to the header pipes where they pass under the engine.

Also, all the stand bumpers, foot guards, and other misc. related hardware would need to be obtained. The black diffuser caps are in the ends of the pipes.

I can get pics if you want. PM me for more detailed info.

The "Colorado" part is funny: I traded with Terry for some brand new ORCA shocks a few months ago, and he had bought them from Colorado, shipped to AUS, then back to me... 

If the holes are the rust-from-inside kind, I don't think I can use them on this bike, but there might always be the time(s) I'm going to need "a pipe" for testing or whatever, before the bike(s) is finished. What do you want for the set?

My original offer of "splitting up the profits" still applies, if that's acceptable. As an estimate, I consider there will be about $1000 of parts going into this bike, one way or another. I will have $367.80 in it by Tuesday, will need to get the new owner's tire recommendation and some tires, next, then a gasket kit for the teardown-cleanup. Then, if I sell it at $2500, take $500 for my "labor charges", that will leave $1000 for dividing up amongst the "parts providers", in some proportion or another (yet to be figured out?) I think it will amount to a percentage of the profit, proportioned evenly against the value of the parts put into the beast. So, for pipes, I would ask a boneyard or two (not eBay) how much they would get for a nice, used HM341 pipe and try to judge it from there... 

[750K2]

pretty sure i've got the master cylinder you're looking for.  k2 stock.  also have a k2 front fender with a bent front lip you can have if you need it, with braces, plus a headlamp shell and bulb.  glad to repay the kindness from this site.  pics of products if you wish.  also have some front and rear foot pegs.

[HondaMan]

pretty sure i've got the master cylinder you're looking for.  k2 stock.  also have a k2 front fender with a bent front lip you can have if you need it, with braces, plus a headlamp shell and bulb.  glad to repay the kindness from this site.  pics of products if you wish.  also have some front and rear foot pegs.

Many thanks, K2!
I'll "inventory" my copies of these parts and reply tomorrow. I might already have a front fender, but with no braces, and I don't have a headlamp at all. And, dumb, but I forgot to check the footpeg condition on the "skeleton" I'm getting from the boneyard. Glad you brought it up!

Back with you tomorrow, for sure!

[JLeather]

Ted, we oughta get a thread like this going over at HC.com.  Some of those guys throw-away stock parts.  I'm sure they'd let HM have some for the cost of shipping.

[Ricky_Racer]

You're right, John.  Not a bad idea.  Who's gonna do it, you or me?  RR