Topic: Pictures with likely dangerous lower kit

[Sweep]

Someone here requested these so here they are.  I'm either going to replace these with the better ones I just bought on ebay or I will try some lower progressive shocks I bought for my Sportster and never used.  These at least show the stance.

What I really like is what it allowed me to do with my clipons, mounting them above the trees.  The last two pics are the detail of the blocks and how they look when I put the bike on the center stand (or a bad bump in the road!).

[754]

The ones I had way back were similar to those except they bolted down at the back.

Looks like you could drill another hole at the front and be able to add a tab to the back and be safe.

I think due to the chopper craze they are moving these to far back and not bolting them down which is not good.

The others you bought would work if you added a part to  bolt it down, and boxed it in by using flat bar to tie the 2 sides together..

 Looks like there is a good need for a decent lowering kit...

[MRieck]

I'd get rid of those things for sure.

[333]

What about tightening the swingarm side tight enough so it doesn't move?

[Patrick]

I'm not sure I totally understand the point of having rear shocks if they aren't securely fastened to the frame.

[dusterdude]

those appear to be installed backwards.i have a set lowering blocks on my sportster havent any issues at all.i dont know how they mount compared to our bikes tho.

[754]

That wont do it, it is bolted into a rubber mount, but I can see how folks THINK that may solve it.. has to be bolted at the rear or welded.

Seriously, mine were a bit shorter bolted to the axle opening bolt at the back and never moved.. never gave any indication they were there while riding. These ones are moved too far back.

The other thing you can do is machine a new tube for the front and lengthen the swingarm

[Patrick]

These are the lowering blocks I have on my very dirty and dusty 750. They bolt at the back and don't move.

http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p247/wordguy11111/HPIM2236.jpg

Sorry, I haven't worked out the intricacies of posting pictures directly. Just links.

[ekim98]

That wont do it, it is bolted into a rubber mount, but I can see how folks THINK that may solve it.. has to be bolted at the rear or welded.

Seriously, mine were a bit shorter bolted to the axle opening bolt at the back and never moved.. never gave any indication they were there while riding. These ones are moved too far back.

The other thing you can do is machine a new tube for the front and lengthen the swingarm

That would work,but seems like a lot of work just to lower the bike a little. Shorter shocks would surely be cheaper and just as effective tho, and not cause possible handleing problems I would think. I took the lower blocks like those off mine when I got it, but for the average guy just motoring around they may not be that bad. But then most people here don't just putt around so !!!

[754]

Patrick, That is what I meant and they work well. Yours appears to be stamped. The differende is the Patrick type is not to radical a change in angle and bolted down.

The others shown are not.

Swingarm extesion.. some folks have a buddy with a lathe, thier own welder... and would rather spend an afternoon and 30 bux than spend 200 on shocks.. some like making parts for their bikes..

Sweep, see if you can get a bushing or nut weded to the back of the mount..may need grinding..then run the bolt up from underneath, then weld it to the block..

[Patrick]

I never should have taken that closeup of my back axle. Wow, is it filthy. Anybody got a clean, rust free back axle?.....

[754]

Never mind the axle.. when are you going to bolt the sprocket to the carrier??

[Patrick]

I like my sprockets free spinning......

[merc2dogs]

 That's pretty much what I thought would happen when I saw them in the other thread.
 I'd prefer going with short shocks. Or spend the time doing the job in the garage.

 Possible fix for that pair would be a 'U' strap that fits around/through the 'new' shock mount, wraps under and is fastened to the swingarm with the clamp bolt.
 
  I've looked into getting a pair of the lowering blocks because I have short legs, but always talk myself out of it.  made a new seat so I can stand flat footed now and don't worry about it anymore.

 As for 'rust' in pics, for some reason every time I take a picture of my bike, it looks rusty, crawl  around and look where the rust is in the pic, and I can't see it.
 I've got a picture of my bikes rear tire, and in the pic the swingarm, axle and brake lever all look rusty, but except for the bolt on the brake lever, there is none visible to the eye.

Ken.

[Patrick]

And you can't tell from the picture, but the frame is freshly painted and looks perfect (if dusty) to the naked eye, and those lowering block are freshly powder coated and have no blemishes.

[Sweep]

What about tightening the swingarm side tight enough so it doesn't move?

It won't happen without messing up the mount.  Not worth it.

These are the lowering blocks I have on my very dirty and dusty 750. They bolt at the back and don't move.

http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p247/wordguy11111/HPIM2236.jpg

Sorry, I haven't worked out the intricacies of posting pictures directly. Just links.

There ya go Patrick.  That's where I'm headed.

[chrislib]

Aside from an originality/"proper" standpoint, why not just shorten the origianl ones? I did mine (wich are/were fairly rusty/crusty so don`t feel too bad about O.E. stuff gettin hacked) and it was pretty easy. Took them down to just about 11 inches. I disassembled the, re-threaded and cut the shock shaft and took about 1 3/4 coils out of the spring. I should add that altho it looks killer I havent ridden it yet as there are many other things to be done before it`s rideable so I can`t give ya a real world ride/handling critique of the mod.

[fuzzybutt]

Aside from an originality/"proper" standpoint, why not just shorten the origianl ones? I did mine (wich are/were fairly rusty/crusty so don`t feel too bad about O.E. stuff gettin hacked) and it was pretty easy. Took them down to just about 11 inches. I disassembled the, re-threaded and cut the shock shaft and took about 1 3/4 coils out of the spring. I should add that altho it looks killer I havent ridden it yet as there are many other things to be done before it`s rideable so I can`t give ya a real world ride/handling critique of the mod.

i'm going to be doing just that to a set of cb1100f piggyback shocks, just making em the same length of sohc 750 shocks