for testing the field coil resistance and got about 4.9 ohms. Then I tested the stator resistance and got about .51 ohms at the leads a & b. I tested the stator leads 1&2-1.1 ohms, 1&3=1.1 ohms & 3&2=1.1 ohms. They were greater than 1 ohm which showed a possible poor connection. I checked the 5 leads on the rectifier. The forward bias test resistance was 0 ohms on all three yellow leads. Then I performed a reverse bias test on all three yellow leads and got 0 ohms on them also.
Your field coil checks good, as does your stator.
Haven't checked the Rectifier properly. To check your rectifier's six diodes, you have to perform 12 measurements.
Green to each yellow, both test lead polarities. Red to each yellow, both test lead polarities.
Quick and dirty test is to measure from red to green leads. One meter lead polarity s/b low ohms, the other lead polarity should read very high ohms.
I tested the regulator resistance with the battery disconnected and all wires removed and got 10.4 ohms between the I&F poles,
Was your regulator checked with it disconnected? Hopefully, you left the Key switch off.
The I terminal is the Black wire. This is power from the Key Switch.
The F terminal S/B the white wire, which is the field coil connection. At rest, the internal contacts s/b closed, reading very nearly 0 ohm. Seems your regulator is not fully activating the field coil. It is stuck in the state where the battery would be at peak charge voltage. And, this makes your alternator not work very well.
the negative black battery wire and the black regulator lead showed aresistance of 0.7 ohms.
This test seems to make no sense. The black regulator lead is supposed to be +12v from the key switch when engaged. Further, I can't tell if all wires were connected or disconnected from the circuit in your test description.
I'm not blowing fuses of any kind. The regulator did not check out well, but I did reset the core gap and point gap and tested it running at 4,000 rpm again with no change what so ever. Would the regulator cause the field coil and stator to not produce any charge at all?
The charging circuit is not fused. Yes the regulator can prevent the alternator from working. The filed coil must be provided with voltage in order to create and electromagnetic field. The presence and strength of that field, as well as RPM, determine the alternator output strength.
You can make a temporary bypass of the regulator, by jumpering the white and black wires at the regulator. Then when you rev the engine, you should see the battery begin to charge and increase voltage. A depleted battery will gain voltage slowly, though.
Cheers,
