Topic: clutch springs......

[greenjeans]

72 CB750K

Still have a bit of a drag on my clutch.  When the bike is on the engine stand the rear wheel will rotate in 1st with the clutch lever pulled.   The discs are flat as checked on a machined steel table top.  The springs measure the correct height.  The correct number of discs are in the clutch.  I have adjusted the clutch many times following the manual.
I've tried it loose & tighter  play at the clutch lever / no play etc... you get the point.

New springs next ??    There is no slippage whatsoever in the clutch.   Still hard to find neutral with bike running.  Pretty much have to get into it at the end of a roll - if I come to a complete stop - VERY hard to find.

Would new springs help the situation ??  Again, I don't have any slippage... Am I thinking backwards on this ?

I guess I'm talking myself into some new springs by typing.

[Tower]

I doubt that springs have much to do with this problem.  Stronger springs would simply make pulling the lever harder but would not increase the distance the basket travels.  Since you have eliminated the typical causes such as plates and/or disks that are too wide, too many, or not flat enough, and the pressure plate is tightened correctly (not misaligned, cracked/flexing, or binding), and I'm assuming the oil is proper viscosity, then
these symptoms can indicate worn parts:
- worn throwout bearings/races (reduces throwout movement)
- slippage/loose fit in lower clutch lever (reduces throwout movement)
- upper clutch lever adjusted too loosely (not sufficient remaining travel to properly rotate lower lever)
- worn clutch shaft bearings (extra friction causes inner shaft to rotate along with outer shaft
- worn clutch cable providing excessive stretch during compression (unlikely)
- foreign matter embedded in clutch assembly (causing parts to stick together)

Some sympathetic inner basket movement is not unusual, but if the clutch grabs when you try to stop the wheel from rotating, then its more than just oil viscosity or sympathetic vibration.

Also, keep in mind that difficulty finding neutral may not be a clutch problem, but rather worn transmission parts (shifter fork?)

[Raul CB750K1]

I think that's normal. I think all my bikes turn the rear wheel while in first, even when the clutch pulled. Just check how much force do you need it to stop it by hand and you will now whether is clutch drag or just sympathetic movement.

[greenjeans]

I'll check this evening and report back.  thanks fellas

[TwoTired]

As the clutch is bathed in oil, you will get some viscous coupling due to plate/friction proximity and the fluid in between.

The clutch isn't dragging if you can easily change from first or second to neutral while stopped and the clutch pulled in.