Author Topic: Welders Thread (Read 15675 times)

JSGAuto · « **Reply #25 on:** September 08, 2006, 01:27:58 PM »

Wow thats expensive, the local schools here charge 195.

But there is no substitute for hands on learning. Take those classes.

tramp · « **Reply #26 on:** September 08, 2006, 03:51:21 PM »

been welding for 20 years
always comes in handy at home
always easy to get jobs

Tim. · « **Reply #27 on:** September 08, 2006, 04:16:36 PM »

Well, I don't need the work, at least not yet. Maybe will need it in the future though - never know!

How many classes/hours do you get for $195? Are there materials fees on top? Another college had one for $700, but was a few weeks longer (48 hours of class time I think) and included all materials - about $270 worth apparantly.

The $400 course I'm looking at is 36 hours over 3 months (3 hours once a week at night) and has no extra charges for materials. There are lots of introductory 6 hour courses for less money but I can't imagine learning anything in 6 hours.

One of the women we ride with (CB750K) is a welder - I still need to chat with her as well.

SuperVel · « **Reply #28 on:** September 10, 2006, 04:08:44 PM »

I have a Century welder that bears the name Craftsman. It is both gas and flux core. It works off of 120 V. When I use it with gas, I would swear that I could weld beer cans together. When I use it with flux core it has spatter and I have to do a little clean up. It works great but if I hadn't gotten such a great deal on it I would have bought a Miller. They are super easy to work with and make professional looking welds.

maksuttt · « **Reply #29 on:** September 10, 2006, 04:20:32 PM »

How far your wanna go in welding? If just for fun - get advice from professional, get your welder (MIG is perfect for novice) and start your own experience. Save money on course - get a welder

Have fun and good luck!

maksuttt · « **Reply #30 on:** September 10, 2006, 04:24:20 PM »

I have Lincoln MIG PAC 10 at home which is perfect for small projects (and 110 volts is good too!). Actually, didn't use it yet, because have an access for welding machines at work. Maybe in nearest future;)

johnny-from-bel · « **Reply #31 on:** September 11, 2006, 09:47:53 AM »

Do as I did, go to night school. Welding aluminium is easy provided you have a TIG welder with ionisator. Will cost you $$$$$$
It can also be done with a MIG under Argon gas. Les $$$$$

Rocking-M · « **Reply #32 on:** May 05, 2007, 07:14:57 AM »

Don't waste your money boys on a Clark Welder.

Mine pissed me off for the last time the other day.
There are a whole lot of Jeremy Clarkson destroys videos,
I should have made a video of the demise of my clark welder,
6 44 mag ball through the front side does it in quite nicely.

nickjtc · « **Reply #33 on:** May 05, 2007, 07:35:58 AM »

That useless, huh?

coyotecowboy · « **Reply #34 on:** May 05, 2007, 10:27:44 AM »

Yep, shoulda got a Lincoln

......or Miller....or Hobart. Always buy the biggest one you can afford, and always use 75/25 or tri mix for your argon, don't even consider that flux-core #$%*, it'll just make ya mad

Hockers Choppers · « **Reply #35 on:** May 05, 2007, 01:00:24 PM »

I have a lincoln at home, had millers at school. both are very nice. Have a solar at work, piece of sh!t! Dad has a hobart, piece of sh!t!! Like Rocking-M said, bigger is better!!!!

Rocking-M · « **Reply #36 on:** May 05, 2007, 02:36:39 PM »

Hey Hockers, do you like the Lincoln? or should I stick with Miller?

ohiocaferacer · « **Reply #37 on:** May 05, 2007, 04:37:27 PM »

I've been using my Clarke for the last 2 years hot and heavy.........never any problems.

Even did some aluminum welding with it........not the best for the aluminum......but it worked.
Use my Hobart TIG for all the alloy stuff and have the Clarke set up for all my steel welding.

Rocking-M · « **Reply #38 on:** May 05, 2007, 06:30:32 PM »

You got lucky Ohio

I'm sure Clark probably has some good ones.

Actually, I bought mine cheap since it actually fell off a truck and was
sold at auction. I think it probably bounced a little hard and after 4 or 5 years
of putting up with it's ability to stick the wire in the feeder and jam up
good time I finally put it out of my misery.

Hockers Choppers · « **Reply #39 on:** May 05, 2007, 07:27:33 PM »

Quote from: Rocking-M on May 05, 2007, 02:36:39 PM

Hey Hockers, do you like the Lincoln? or should I stick with Miller?

Both are a quality piece. I have a lincoln 150? its one of the smaller 220v migs. I've welded continuos beads for over 10" and for hours at a time and it has never shut down on me! The solar at the shop will shut down on a 6" weld on high heat. I know that GM only recommends 2 welders for welding aluminum on Corvettes, miller and lincoln. ( Had to take a 2 day class to find that out!! $:-\$ $:-\$ )

merc2dogs · « **Reply #40 on:** May 05, 2007, 09:21:33 PM »

I've got a century mig that I've had for over 10 years, no complaints at all, was pretty inexspensive at the time.

220v, 170(?) amp
handles everything I've pointed it at.

ken.

Jim F · « **Reply #41 on:** May 06, 2007, 09:44:00 AM »

everything that I use in my business is Miller
from Micro tig welding to a syncro 250amp tig welder
225 miller mig system to a micro laser system

Rocking-M · « **Reply #42 on:** May 06, 2007, 03:15:12 PM »

I got spoiled on Millers long ago when I worked a powerplant job.
Best machines I've ever used. I think I'll be hunting for the small miller.

holdfastgreg · « **Reply #43 on:** May 06, 2007, 06:16:50 PM »

Its all apples and oranges. Whatever works best for you!

My 2 cents, Ive had great luck with miller and Lincolns.

oldfordguy · « **Reply #44 on:** May 07, 2007, 10:00:18 AM »

Very happy with my Miller.
Matt

Rocking-M · « **Reply #45 on:** May 07, 2007, 05:11:35 PM »

What size you have Matt?

MRieck · « **Reply #46 on:** May 07, 2007, 06:52:48 PM »

Quote from: big-jim on May 06, 2007, 09:44:00 AM

everything that I use in my business is Miller
from Micro tig welding to a syncro 250amp tig welder
225 miller mig system to a micro laser system

I had a feeling you would say Miller.

Jim F · « **Reply #47 on:** May 08, 2007, 04:27:01 AM »

I payed a little over $1000.00 for my Miller 225 MIG system (new)
its 220 volt and can weld stuff up to 1/2 in with no problems

good luck
Jim

tsflstb · « **Reply #48 on:** December 19, 2007, 06:24:02 AM »

Been messing around with positioning my rearsets lately and pretty much decided I won’t use the bolt-on frame clamp idea. I think the best solution will be to weld a strip of 1” wide, 5/8” thick steel to the frame. I’ll drill and tap two holes for a fine threaded bolt that will mount the rearsets. The pic shows something I’ve slapped together with plywood and zip ties to test out the riding position. The little piece of wood on the frame rail is the piece I’m talking about welding.

Since most of the places near me do oil field and heavy equipment repair, it would be good to know what to look for before I turn them loose on my frame.

Is there any type of steel that would weld better with the frame? Tool steel? Regular 1018? Some rusty piece of an old Ford tractor?

What type of rod would you use? Is stick welding acceptable or would you use another method?

How far do I need to tear the bike down? I think all the surfaces could be prepared and welded without removing the engine. I’ll take out the battery – are there any other electrics that I need to think about? What about the weld “spatter” – how do you protect surfaces from that?

Steve F · « **Reply #49 on:** December 19, 2007, 06:44:18 AM »

Don't use tools steel since it hardens as you weld it, and the weld will most likely crack. Plain C1018 or 4130 would work great. I would recommend TIG method first, MIG second and stick as a last resort. You'll have to remove all the paint where you want to weld first. Make up you pieces you want welded to the frame, bolt your rearsets to the pieces and clamp the assembly to the frame where you want them to go, and make sure they're straight. Then TACK them in place with very tiny welds and verify they're where you want them. If you lay a weld bead on just one side without tacking all of the sides first, the part WILL MOVE! Small weld beads at first on all sides and then finish up the rest.
If you have a milling machine or know of anyone with one, see if you can get the side of your steel piece milled out with a radius cutter to match the frame tubing's outside diameter so the part fits around the tubing instead of it just being scabbed onto the frame.
Oh, if you have any electronics on the bike like electronic ignition, remove it before you start welding.

News:

Author Topic: Welders Thread (Read 15675 times)

johnny-from-bel

Rocking-M

Rocking-M

Rocking-M

Rocking-M

holdfastgreg

Rocking-M