Topic: Spiral Core 8mm silicone wires W/dyna coils........

[Dunstall_74]

I just installed dyna 5 ohm coils on my cb750 today.  Setting them up was a piece of cake.  The only problem I ran into, is getting my 8mm taylor wires to fit onto my plugs.  I went to the honda shop and they sold me a set of ngk caps w/ 5ohms resistance -the recommended stock plug caps for my K4 bike.  Only problem is that these type of plug caps are supposed to be used w/ copper core wires.  My wires are more like auto plug wires.  I went to the auto parts store to see if they could set me up with some boots and connectors, and they did except they did not have the long straights and the vari-angle boots that our bikes take.

Any clue as to what type of boots and connectors I should use, and where I could get them? 

Also, Shouldn't I be using resistorless connectors due to the fact that I installed the 5ohm coils, not the 3ohm?  FYI - I'm currently running a dyna-s

[Gordon]

You should be using plug caps with the stock resistance.  If I were you I'd also use solid copper core plug wires. 

[Dunstall_74]

what is better about the solid copper core wires, and where can I find a set?

[Terry in Australia]

Well what's better to me is that I can use OEM or NGK plug caps mate, but there's probably a more technical reason.

I picked up a roll of 7mm copper cored wire at an auto parts store a few years ago, but I imagine you can still buy it from an auto electrical store. Cheers, Terry.

[City Boy]

I am using the 8mm Taylor solid core silicone wires ,green coils, and stock NGK caps.I removed the resistors from the caps and put in alum spacers instead.The wires are a very snug fit but did work w/o modification.Rock On

[City Boy]

PS.I also used Taylor straight boots on the coils.

[City Boy]

PS #2.Taylor #'s are 35081 for wires[8mm wire core 30ft. black]and 46059 for boots[180degree socket dist boot/tml kit]Rock On

[bikehenge]

Dunstall,
what you describe is why I'm using the 7mm plug wire instead of 8mm.  I might look into Citys solution though because I would like the additional insulation.
Rob

[scondon]

what is better about the solid copper core wires, and where can I find a set?

Z1 enterprises has a good price on 7mm copper core wires(Dyna).

I don't claim to know much about electronics, but the way I understand it is that resistance creates heat and heat will cause parts to degrade or fail over time. The suppression wires have resistance in them and don't need resistor caps, if the wire breaks down you replace the wire. Copper core wires have little/no? resistance so a resistor cap is used, if the cap breaks down you replace the cap.

   I like the 8mm suppression wire because my #2 spark plug kept burning up resistor caps, maybe due to how close that cap sits to the hot engine?

[Gordon]

All these fancy, expensive spark plug wires are made for engines that need to have their electronics shielded from the elecromagnetic pulses.  Unless you're running a Dyna 2000 or similar electronic ignition module, your engine does not need this shielding. 

[scondon]

The cost is the same for suppression or copper core ($16). I am curious as to what other reasons/benefits one might have to choose between the two. I am running a Dyna 2000 on one bike and a Dyna S on the other, both have suppression wires.

[Gordon]

The cost is the same for suppression or copper core ($16).

I'm not talking about Dyna brand wires.  I'm talking about basic, black copper core wire that you can get for $1 per foot, or about 6 bucks for a 4cyl engine. 

[scondon]

The cost is the same for suppression or copper core ($16).

I'm not talking about Dyna brand wires.  I'm talking about basic, black copper core wire that you can get for $1 per foot, or about 6 bucks for a 4cyl engine. 

Gotcha   But you still have to buy four resistor caps

 Sorry Gordon, couldn't help myself. Not trying to make an argument either way

[TwoTired]

All these fancy, expensive spark plug wires are made for engines that need to have their electronics shielded from the elecromagnetic pulses.  Unless you're running a Dyna 2000 or similar electronic ignition module, your engine does not need this shielding. 

Um, well, technically these wires don't shield anything.  What resistance in the High tension circuit does, is reduce the peak of the spark pulse to reduce radiation at the source.  The energy is still delivered to the spark gap(s), but at a longer duration.  On the scope, it looks like the mountain peak turns into a lower but wider hill with the same mass.  This is good at the spark gap as it increases time for the spark to ignite the fuel mixture.  The radiated Energy (Electro-Magnetic Interference (EMI) or Radio Frequency Interference (RFI)) from the unshielded wire is reduced in strength, and lower in impulse frequency, making other units that may have a problem with impulse spike coupling, require less in the way of filtering out spurious input, to either survive the spurios coupled power, or interfere with it's intended function.

Simple, eh?

Cheers,

[Dunstall_74]

Thanks for the advice on the boots and connectors city, I think we are talking about slightly different wires though.  Here is some info I got on the taylor website, Mine are the 8mm Spiro-Wound core.

Silicone Ignition Wire - 7mm, 8mm, 10.4mm
Our experience in racing has proven that 100% pure silicone makes for the most heat-resistant spark plug wires. For the highest temperature conditions, use one of our 357 series, double silicone insulated wires. 4 core types available for your specific application. See Taylor Performance Catalog for 30-ft. coil and 100-ft. spool part numbers. Call Taylor OEM Sales for larger bulk quantities. Custom-printed wire is available -- 5,000-ft. minimum.

CORE TYPES:
Copper - 19 x 30 bare copper
TCW - 41 strands of 33-gauge tinned copper-clad steel
Resistor - High-strength Kelvar® suppressive filament core covered with high-conductive latex coating
Spiro-Wound - High-conductive resistor core spiral wound with a stainless steel wire. Covered with a conductive fluorocarbon latex coating

There are boots on the wires already to plug into the coils, and looking down inside them you can see the core strand folded over the silicone outer insulation just like an automotive plug wire.  If I were to screw on the NGK caps I've got , I wouldn't know how.   Just screw em' in and hope they work, no mods necessary?

[Gordon]

Gotcha   But you still have to buy four resistor caps

 Sorry Gordon, couldn't help myself. Not trying to make an argument either way

That's cool.  I enjoy a good discussion.

A question, though.  Doesn't the total resistance of those wires depend on the individual length of each wire?  What happens when you cut them to fit your particular bike, or do they come in specific lengths for a particular application with the resistance already tailored to fit your bike?   

[Dunstall_74]

I asked the same question.  I e-mailed the guys at Taylor yesterday to asked the same kind of question.  I gave them my wire type, application, and wire length.  If you go to their website they have a chart that gives you some resistance #'s but they would need to be converted to the specific size for our bikes, like you mentioned.  If I ever get a reply from Taylor, I will post it.  I would think someone here would have the answers though, since I'm not the only one with these wires.

http://www.taylorcableproducts.com/oem7.html

[City Boy]

I cant add anything to this resistance discussion.I went with the solid core wires because that is what was fitted OEM and I believe the silicone jacket is an improvement over OEM.I removed the resistors from the caps also because they were not fitted OEM. Rock On

[scondon]

Gotcha   But you still have to buy four resistor caps

 Sorry Gordon, couldn't help myself. Not trying to make an argument either way

That's cool.  I enjoy a good discussion.

A question, though.  Doesn't the total resistance of those wires depend on the individual length of each wire?  What happens when you cut them to fit your particular bike, or do they come in specific lengths for a particular application with the resistance already tailored to fit your bike?   

  TT blew the cap off my skull when he came by last weekend. We discussed this very thing and the answer is, yes the length of the suppression wire will determine the total resistance. The bikes run well, but now I have something new to consider when cutting the different lengths for 1/4 and 2/3 cylinders.

  I forget the actual resistance per foot, but as soon as I get my digital meter I will be able to measure again and add some info.