Topic: brake bleeder valve broke off on me

[76 cb550]

I'll take pics in a bit. Gotta charge my camera.  The hole looks great...it's the threads that are the problem.  The threads on one side of the hole are gone...the other side is fine.  Threads are exposed but undamaged.  I don't know if I got the rest of the bleeder out.  I'm sure there are small bits between threads but most of it is gone.  Once I saw the threads come out of the hole while I was drilling I knew it was pretty much over.

[mystic_1]

There are two important parts of this particular hole.  First and foremost is the seat, which is an angled surface at the bottom of the hole.  The bleeder screw bottoms out against this to seal the hole when you tighten it.  The second important part of the hole is the threads - they allow the bleeder screw to apply pressure against the seat.

Having said that, the seat is more important than the threads.  If the threads are not that bad off, in other words if you can't wiggle a new bleeder once installed, it should seal up reasonably well.  It all depends on how much thread is missing.


Regarding the bleeder repair thingy I linked above, I've never used one but it looks to me like you just drill your bleeder hole oversize, tap, and thread in the thingy in the picture.  The larger piece goes into your caliper and has it's own bleeder screw and seat.  Looks to me like it would do the job and may be cheaper than a new caliper.  Also if as RxmanGriff says the Speedbleeder company offers installation service, you could try contacting them and seeing if they can put in a new seat AND a speedbleeder at the same time.

Best of luck

mystic_1

[76 cb550]

I have sent them an e-mail.  thank you all again

[mystic_1]

Does your caliper look anything like this?

[76 cb550]

looks a lot like that =)

What is that off of.  The part # i need is 45101-323-013

[mystic_1]

It's off of a big green storage crate that that has a piece of tape on the side saying "Brake Stuff" lol. 

I'm not sure what it originally came off of, but the main bolts seem to be about 42mm (1.65in) center to center.  The piston looks great although it will need a new caliper seal.  As you can see in the pic, the paint is shot but a quick repaint should get it looking pretty again.

Also, the bleeder is not stuck

Sending you a PM

mystic_1

[James]

You could blank off the bleeder, and get a bleedable banjo bolt

[voxonda]

Hey guys,

On these old calipers the best thing to do is take a torch and carefully heat the caliper up, of course after removing the piston and seal!. Because the alloy will expand more then the steel, you'll have no problem to remove the valve. I 'always' put some copper grease on the thread or a nickelbased grease to make sure the valve won't get stuck anymore. In the more then 30 years I never broke a bleeder.

Good luck, Rob

[dpen]

One tool definately worth looking for is a set of "straight fluted ezi-outs"

These have no taper - a pilot hole is drilled & the ezi-out tapped in with a hammer

slip on the supplied long nut & add a ring spanner - these are magic

p.s. if anyone finds some let us know as some low life stole mine a year ago & they're like rocking horse poo

[James]

*cough* look here *cough*

http://www.amazon.com/Vermont-American-5-Piece-Straight-Extractor/dp/B000CEMSHM/ref=sr_1_19?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1205933535&sr=8-19

[florence]

I must agree about the bleedable banjo.  An engineer made one for me and it works brilliantly.  You have a special bolt which goes through your banjo and has a bleed nipple threaded into the top.  Bleeds fine with no problems.  as far as the broken original nipple is concerned you just leave it in place.

[mystic_1]

I use the straight fluted extractors exclusively.  I think they're much better than the spiral ones, which I will not use any more.  That said, a bleeder screw is a challenging extraction even in the best of circumstances.

I've only ever broken one of the straight fluted ones after many years of using them, and rarely have they failed me.  I was pleasantly surprised when the wife gave me a new set of them for my birthday a few years back, guess she was tired of my griping about the one missing one from the set lol!


mystic_1

[mark]

I've used a lot of different extractors on a lot of broken bolts and nothing beats these:
http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/10-Screw-Extractor-Set/EN/index.htm

Not cheap but worth it.

[CB500_k2]

Although I have not yet broken off a bleeder fitting I was interested in the speed bleeder.  My brother who is a motorcycle mechanic has lectured me about changing the brake fluid every year and the process is a PITA.  The speed bleeder seems to make this process a one man job.  Anyone know which speed bleeder should be used with our dear old machines?  I sent them an inquiry and did not get a response.

[Jerry Rxman Griffin aka MuthaF'er]

We have a list in FAQ under brakes.

Not totally complete because none of the 650 guys have provided the necessary information.

[CB500_k2]

Thanks for the FAQ reference.

[76 cb550]

I talked to speedbleeder and they WILL rethread my hole!  I sent them an e-mail about cost...haven't gotten a response yet. 

[mystic_1]

That's great!  Do let us know what you find out, this is a very useful service to be aware of.

mystic_1

[bryanj]

The only place i found in UK to get the straight extractor with the loose nut is off the "Snap-On" van, but take out a bank loan and wear blinkers before you climb om

[76 cb550]

 This is the email I just recieved from speedbleeder. 

What size bleeder screw did you break off (thread size i.e.. 3/8 x 24)?   I  will remove the broken bleeder and repair the caliper if it needs to be repaired for nothing.  I  will charge you for the Speed Bleeder and an adapter if needed. The cost to you would be $15.00 for the Speed Bleeder and adapter plus actual shipping.

I have a caliper on the way here.  I paid $15 total including shipping for two front calipers and maybe a rotor if it'll fit in the box.  Used of course.  So unless the caliper doesn't work out for some reason I will not be contacting speedbleeder about my caliper repair.

[mark]

The only place i found in UK to get the straight extractor with the loose nut is off the "Snap-On" van, but take out a bank loan and wear blinkers before you climb om

Forget the bank loan - your friendly neighbourhood Snap-On dealer should happily offer credit without interest(to regular patrons, of course) on such a small purchase.

It only sounds like a lot of cash when you're weighing it by the Pound!

I still give the Ridgid extractors(and the left-hand bits that someone mentioned previously) at least a  rating, and when all goes well.... 

[mystic_1]

This is the email I just recieved from speedbleeder. 

What size bleeder screw did you break off (thread size i.e.. 3/8 x 24)?   I  will remove the broken bleeder and repair the caliper if it needs to be repaired for nothing.  I  will charge you for the Speed Bleeder and an adapter if needed. The cost to you would be $15.00 for the Speed Bleeder and adapter plus actual shipping.

I have a caliper on the way here.  I paid $15 total including shipping for two front calipers and maybe a rotor if it'll fit in the box.  Used of course.  So unless the caliper doesn't work out for some reason I will not be contacting speedbleeder about my caliper repair.

Glad it's working out for you.  Very impressive customer service, there.

Are you still going to install a speedbleeder?  The Brake FAQ seems to indicate that a SB7100 or SB7100SS will replace the stock bleeder on your bike.

mystic_1

[76 cb550]

I'm considering it.  I was stupid and ordered a new bleeder screw before I found out about the speed bleeders.  I should have help whenever I need to bleed the brakes and I have very limited funds right now.  So if I do get a speed bleeder it'll be a little bit.

[UnCrash]

I'm considering it.  I was stupid and ordered a new bleeder screw before I found out about the speed bleeders.  I should have help whenever I need to bleed the brakes and I have very limited funds right now.  So if I do get a speed bleeder it'll be a little bit.

No Worries,  you can bleed the brakes yourself without the speed bleeder.   You just have to stretch a little.    A great trick once you have worked all the bubbles out with the standard method is to tilt your handlebars so that the bleeder is as high off the ground as possible (with the bleeder closed) and zip tie (or rope tie) your brake in the on position.  Leave it overnight.

Brakes should feel nice and firm for you in the morning.

[TwoTired]

A great trick once you have worked all the bubbles out with the standard method is to tilt your handlebars so that the bleeder is as high off the ground as possible (with the bleeder closed) and zip tie (or rope tie) your brake in the on position.  Leave it overnight.

Applying the brake lever, closes the air exit hole in the master cylinder.  This will prevent air escape.  Leaving it over night, for the bubbles to rise to master, is good technique.  Tying the brake lever in the on position is superfluous.

Just because you wink when you make a left turn, does not mean winking causes the left turn.

Cheers,