Okey Dokey, the engine is back together and just needs shoving back into the frame, so time for the tank. When I restored this bike in 04/05, I bought a tank from a guy in New York, but sadly it was full of rust, and within a year of painting it, I got the dreaded bubbles in my shiny candy maroon paint.
Luckily for me there are some great guys here on this site, and Tim Kasper from Texas (KGhost) sent me a rust free black F3 tank with tired OEM paint, but no damage.
Today I got stuck in, and using a nylon 3M "strip disc" on my 7 inch sander/polisher, I stripped all the paint and decals etc off the tank.
The beauty of the nylon disc is that it only takes paint off, not metal. Never, never, never, use an abrasive sanding disc on a tank, that metal is thin, and it's gotta hold fuel, and protect you from exploding in a "get off".
There was one tiny ding on the front right of the tank, so I layed a little bondo.
I removed most of the excess bondo when it was in it's "plastic" state with a "surform file", then used a speed file (coarse sanding paper on a board) to knock it down, then some 280 grit dry paper (never ever wet sand bondo, or it'll absorb it then bubble it back thru your paint later when it gets warm) to smooth it out. I also masked off the cap and the tank flap hinge screw threads in anticipation of some paint!
I cleaned the bare metal with some "prep wash" solvent, wiped it all off, "tack ragged" it to remove any dust or lint, and sprayed some "Etch primer" on the bare steel to protect the bare metal from flash rusting, and to provide a chemical "key" to bond the primer/surfacer (next step) to the metal.
Once the etch primer had a couple of hours to dry @ 20 deg C (about 60 deg F today, it was a tad cool) I sprayed on a couple of coats of primer/surfacer.
Now as everyone here probably knows, the "top coat" is always a direct result of the prep work you do before the shiny stuff goes on, so to get a really nice finish, at this stage I "fogged" a contrasting color (black) over the primer/surfacer, then let it dry overnight.
Tomorrow I will "wet rub" the primer/surfacer with 600 grit, and any high or low spots will be easy to find, as they'll either be bare metal (high spot) or black. (low spot) Not much you can do about a high spot apart from shrinking or tapping it down, but I don't anticipate having any, so more likely I'll have some tiny dings that I can fix with "spray putty". (next step)
Sadly I won't get a great deal more done this weekend as I'm going away to visit my folks in the country, but I'll do as much as I can as quickly as I can, without cutting corners. Cheers, Terry.