Topic: Replacement headlight switch

[.RJ]

I'm wiring up my K1 CB750, and I'm not using the stock handlebar switches (they also didnt come with the bike) and I need to wire in a headlight switch - anyone have a source for a relatively small replacement switch that I use?  Looking to hide it somewhere, maybe in my battery box under the seat or on the headlight bucket.  From what I can tell in the wiring diagrams its got power in, and power out to high beam, low beam and the speedo/tach lights.

[fuzzybutt]

the cycle exchange has them

[.RJ]

the cycle exchange has them

Not bad, but I was hoping to find something I dont need to mount on the handlbars - any other ideas?

[754]

If you dont mount on the bars, how will you switch from hi to low while riding, and operate the horn ?

[.RJ]

If you dont mount on the bars, how will you switch from hi to low while riding, and operate the horn ?

No plans to do either

[Sweep]

I used a waterproof marine toggle switch for mine when I realized that my year wiring harness didn't match the new bar switches I had, I needed on/off.  I think I bought it at an autoparts store and had it laying around.  I used the same kind of switch as for ignition on another bike.  I believe I wired the white wire to one side of the switch and I forget what had juice and was spare that I wired to the other.  I simply let the switch dangle freely between the speedo and triple tree.

[.RJ]

How many wires lead into the stock headlight switch?  One diagram shows 3... another one shows 6 

[hymodyne]

IMHO, there's a reason these bikes have light, horn, turn and kill switches on the bars. I posted over a year ago asking about relocating switches from the handlebars to other places. I was then reminded of the need for quick access and reaction time when flashing, blinking or honking is all that stands between our bikes (and bodies) and some less than fully focused car driver (and car) at road speeds.

hym

[.RJ]

I was then reminded of the need for quick access and reaction time when flashing, blinking or honking is all that stands between our bikes (and bodies) and some less than fully focused car driver (and car) at road speeds.

I'm well aware - my 'everday' bikes retain horn/blinkers/etc on their stock switches, but my 750 wont be a daily rider and when I am riding it, it will likely be away from city traffic as best as I can help it - right now I am leaving horn and turn signals off the bike, but the wiring is in place should I want to add them later its not an issue.  After many near misses and avoided accidents on the road in the DC area the use of turn signals on the bike goes totally unnoticed by 99% of the drivers so I am not worried about not having those but I will probably put a horn in at some point.

I picked up a switch from radio shack that looks like it will do the trick for the headlight, although it may be a temporary solution as its a little bulky.  Hopefully I can use a 'mini' switch (they only come with a fairly low amp rating) once I wire relays for the headlights.

[Peterbylt]

I found myself in need of a headlight cutoff switch a number of years ago in Daytona. The 75 550f charging system is not the greatest. After a day of idling around Daytona in traffic I would find myself with an almost dead battery so I installed a toggle switch on the headlight bucket. I have also used this when working on the electrical system in the garage.

[Sweep]

That is the entire reason I have a toggle as well.

[goon 1492]

I had to put a toggle for my headlight and i put it on the side of the headlight bucket right in front of the blinker beeper. JC whitney has some handlebar mount toggle switches, holds two switches. Be careful of using under rated switches for what you are doing, your autoparts store should have many different kinds of toggle switches and they all ahow the volts and amps for them. I know you might get by with an under rated switch, but you also don't want a fire from melted wires that could happen while your riding because of an under rated switch, its not good times. That's if the switch is not fused too.

[.RJ]

The switch I picked up from radio shack is rated at 20A - will this be ok?  The main fuse is 15A.

I assume that if I use relays for the headlight I can get away with a much lower rated switch - correct?

[troppo]

You should be right RJ.
But i`m sure i`ll be corrected if i`m wrong

[eurban]

If you relay the headlight, the on/off switching signal to the relay draws minimal juice.  20a would be overkill even if it was handling full headlight current.  Mounting the switch on the headlight bucket is OK if you want it to be part of your look.  Functionally, having the switch up and under the tank where less visible but still accessible (not unlike the petcock location) should work about as well.  With a bit of ingenuity I bet you could install a mini button for horn, or hi / lo or kill in a set of billet grips, throttle housing, master cylinder, clutch lever assembly etc.  Would be a cool challenge!  Where are you near DC?  I'm in Silver Spring just outside of Takoma Park.

[.RJ]

With a bit of ingenuity I bet you could install a mini button for horn, or hi / lo or kill in a set of billet grips, throttle housing, master cylinder, clutch lever assembly etc.

Thats the plan   I thought about hiding the starter button and using a dirt bike kill switch, but I picked up an RC51/1000RR kill/starter switch for $5 on ebay.  I'd love to hide the brake master cylinder reservoir somewhere... may just toss it and run a long hose up behind the gauges.



I'm in falls church Va - not too far from DC.

[tinyrobot]

I picked up a RC51 start/kill as well, just haven't gotten around to wiring it up.

[754]

I had an idea, but I did not mention it as it is a bit risky.

I was going to run an on off for the light, then run a toggle inside the end of the right bar, which would stick out thru the hole in the grip. But its easy to break, hard to mount, but will hold up better with clipons.

Another cheap switch is the Harley rocker that fit about 73-84, you could fab a small pocket for it and sink flush into the bar.

A guy I know has been using small chrome pushbuttons in the bars about the size of a pencil eraser tip, but they came from Europe & were pricey..like 50 a pop or more.

Beemers around 81 used a remote  cable operated m/c that you could probably put behind the headlight if you got a flatter  backed one.

[.RJ]

Beemers around 81 used a remote  cable operated m/c that you could probably put behind the headlight if you got a flatter  backed one.

I'd just use some hose with a cap on the end - http://www.yoyodyneti.com/category.aspx?categoryID=3013

And run the hose behind the gauges to have enough volume in it.

[754]

And put it where, it has to be above the m/c right?

Nuthin worse than a black or brown coiler parked behind your guages to detract from its look









OK, what about this.. a nice milled resivoir that nestles up against and between the 2 guages.. how would that be?

[.RJ]

And put it where, it has to be above the m/c right?

I guess looped between the headlight/gauges and then I'd have to make a clip/holder for it on the other side.  I'd have to play with the fitment to see if I could make it look cleaner that way.

OK, what about this.. a nice milled resivoir that nestles up against and between the 2 guages.. how would that be?

That'd be real nice - I've seen some harley/choppers with the reservoir welded into the handlebar.