Author Topic: Can this be salvaged???? Updated 4/10/08 (Read 6708 times)

Hope · « **on:** March 30, 2008, 05:28:44 PM »

Orange... Gold... Orange...

Cassandra originally had the sunrise orange tank, then I put the gold tank on, and today I put the sunrise orange back on... WHY?? Here's why:

So can this tank be salvaged??? Gas is oozing through the rust you see. I would like to save the tank if I can.

The "before" pics can be found here: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=28313.0

Ran across what I think is my problem.... Here's a pic of when I stripped the tank:

fuzzybutt · « **Reply #1 on:** March 30, 2008, 05:31:19 PM »

grind all the rus out and use jb weld maybe?

mark · « **Reply #2 on:** March 30, 2008, 05:35:12 PM »

Yikes! 30 days in "The Hole" on bread & water for that guy..

kghost · « **Reply #3 on:** March 30, 2008, 05:51:48 PM »

Before you try magic epoxies...and Magic liners.....

Get it welded.

Or brazed

Or soldered.

I don't care which....anything else is a temporary fix

mattcb350f · « **Reply #4 on:** March 30, 2008, 06:04:25 PM »

+1, mechanical repair would be the best. The paint job actually looks really good, the tank just rusted through

Has anyone else heard of PRC fuel tank sealant. We used to use this stuff to repair leaks on the float planes. It's awefull smelling thick black stuff but is exellent for sealing leaks. We used it on floats but it's designed to repair fuel tanks in jets etc.

Matt.

Tower · « **Reply #5 on:** March 30, 2008, 06:23:01 PM »

If its perforated in that one spot, the tank is likely to have other "almost" perforations. Hot lead (solder) is a very capable sealer and can be ground/sanded for finishing, just don't breath the fumes too deeply.

You may want to sand to bare metal, all around the tank edges to make sure the whole thing is sound. Near perforations will show up as dark spots and stains on the bare metal. After all, you wouldn't want to repeat this repair anytime soon.

my78k · « **Reply #6 on:** March 30, 2008, 06:41:55 PM »

Hard to blame the inmate for rust that has been happening for far longer than the sentence he is currently serving!!!

Actually the paint job was really nice and a great find on your part to have them do it for you. To me, I doubt I would try to save it (in it's current form anyways) as matching the paint would be impossible. I would source a decent tank as a replacement and get it painted to match. Then I would search around for a jail that is currently doing metal work for free too

Dennis

Bob Wessner · « **Reply #7 on:** March 30, 2008, 06:47:26 PM »

Quote

If its perforated in that one spot, the tank is likely to have other "almost" perforations.

I agree. You might want to consider an interior phosphoric acid cleaning to flush out any spots that are paper thin. I've seen it happen. Better to find out how many, where and how severe before you commit to a particular restoration method.

Hope · « **Reply #8 on:** March 30, 2008, 07:16:54 PM »

Quote from: Bob Wessner on March 30, 2008, 06:47:26 PM

Quote
If its perforated in that one spot, the tank is likely to have other "almost" perforations.

I agree. You might want to consider an interior phosphoric acid cleaning to flush out any spots that are paper thin. I've seen it happen. Better to find out how many, where and how severe before you commit to a particular restoration method.

How is an interior phosphoric acid cleaning different from the electrolysis? Won't the results be the same? (Pics of stripping & electrolysis http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=21623.msg244775#msg244775)..... we stripped the K and the F tanks at the same time, but I only submerged the F tank in the electrolysis tank. The F tank is still perfect, and the K, well you see the results....

Anyone suggest electrolysis? Kreem? Electrolysis + weld + Kreem + repaint?

I already talked to the body shop and they said they would take the tank back to repaint as long as I buy the paint... which I am willing to as long as I can prevent this from happening again!!!

FYI.... when I stripped this tank, I didn't see any evidence of rust coming through at the location that it has....

kghost · « **Reply #9 on:** March 30, 2008, 08:46:17 PM »

It usually happens where there is a seam.

An inspection Mirror will aid in seeing into the tank.

Where theres one spot theres likely more.

PRC is a great sealer for Aircraft fuel tanks...I even have some..what do you think I do with all the expired stuff?

Once again....weld, solder, or braze it.

No use painting it again unless you fix it right.

754 · « **Reply #10 on:** March 30, 2008, 09:59:00 PM »

This will tell all if you can locate one..,

RIGID makes a viewer called, I think a SEE SNAKE.. it has an end about 16mm in dia, with a yard of cable. It will allow you to get inside and view it on the screen on the handheld part.

These are sold by industrial supply houses, if you can find one.. ask them who buys them and get one of them to let you have a look, bribe em with beer or donuts.

This thing will get within an inch or so from any part inside your tank,and display it in colour on the screen!!

I think there are lots out there, local place sold about 200 of them.. not real cheap but very neat. I think around 250 on sale..

May have to search under pipe inspection equipment

BlindJoe · « **Reply #11 on:** March 30, 2008, 10:16:26 PM »

Couldn't she pressurize the tank to about 2 psi and just spray soapy water around the seams to check for leaks?

kghost · « **Reply #12 on:** March 30, 2008, 10:19:18 PM »

Quote from: KottkeHead on March 30, 2008, 10:16:26 PM

Couldn't she pressurize the tank to about 2 psi and just spray soapy water around the seams to check for leaks?

After cleaning the inside and presuming it makes it thru the paint.

The hell of it is .....it gets thinner and thinner from the inside out. As the metal corrodes new leaks develope.

Unless the rust is removed, the galvanic action stopped and the metal sealed it will continue.

Bob Wessner · « **Reply #13 on:** March 31, 2008, 04:24:26 AM »

Quote

How is an interior phosphoric acid cleaning different from the electrolysis?

Hmm, don't know. I never tried electrolysis, but I do know that a tank, that I thought seemed sound, revealed several pin holes after the acid treatment. I'm thinking

the acid removes a small amount of material, not sure whether electrolysis does, or it just converts.

Hope · « **Reply #14 on:** March 31, 2008, 05:58:23 AM »

Doesn't Oxalic acid= wood bleach? Ah!!! I happen to have some of that around the house from when I was cleaning up other rusted bits from "Project Jasper"..... no, that's Oxalic acid which is specifically for chrome....

hmm
I still have bottle #1 from the Kreem job I did on the orange tank back in 2001. Will this still be good? If so, I am going to treat the inside of the tank with the phosphoric acid Wednesday night (first night I have available).

How do I treat the inside of the tank so it won't rust when I finish the phosphoric acid treatment? Spray with WD40?

Lumbee · « **Reply #15 on:** March 31, 2008, 06:07:43 AM »

...hey Hope, yeah...I could weld it up...wouldn't take much. My suggestion would be welding up any obvious pin holes, then an application of POR15. Heres a link... http://www.por15.com/prodinfo.asp?grp=CTRK&dept=11 Its good stuff. It'll put a nice coat on the inside, will stop future rust, and should fill in any other pin holes...

Cvillechopper · « **Reply #16 on:** March 31, 2008, 06:14:15 AM »

+1 on the POR-15. Once it's cured you can't knock it off with a hammer (don't ask me how I know).

Hope · « **Reply #17 on:** March 31, 2008, 06:16:28 AM »

Quote from: The great "Lumbee" on March 31, 2008, 06:07:43 AM

...hey Hope, yeah...I could weld it up...wouldn't take much. My suggestion would be welding up any obvious pin holes, then an application of POR15. Heres a link... http://www.por15.com/prodinfo.asp?grp=CTRK&dept=11 Its good stuff. It'll put a nice coat on the inside, will stop future rust, and should fill in any other pin holes...

Sweet. Is por15 like a Kreem coat? Sounds like a plan. Any place to get it locally or should I purchase from the link you provided?

Lumbee · « **Reply #18 on:** March 31, 2008, 06:21:14 AM »

..I don't know of anywhere local...I'd use the link...

Hope · « **Reply #19 on:** March 31, 2008, 06:40:30 AM »

Quote from: The great "Lumbee" on March 31, 2008, 06:21:14 AM

..I don't know of anywhere local...I'd use the link...

Okay... I pulled the trigger and bought the stuff. We'll see how it differs from Kreem.... since Rad said that my Kreem coat in my orange tank was the source of all that white milky stuff we found in my carbs

for all those that don't know, there was no white milky stuff... as you can see here: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=27223.0

The slow jets needed to be cleaned.

Lumbee · « **Reply #20 on:** March 31, 2008, 06:58:00 AM »

..did u ride the 550 any this weekend. If so did it start easy for ya?

Gordon · « **Reply #21 on:** March 31, 2008, 06:58:18 AM »

Quote from: Hope on March 31, 2008, 06:40:30 AM

since Rad said that my Kreem coat in my orange tank was the source of all that white milky stuff we found in my carbs

I still don't buy that theory. The Kreem liner would come off in flakes or even large sheets, but it wouldn't just dissolve in the gas.

754 · « **Reply #22 on:** March 31, 2008, 07:29:44 AM »

See if you can can a hold of that inspection camera, then you can see how bad it is , and make a better decision on how far gone the tank is & whether you really want to put any (more) money in the tank.

kghost · « **Reply #23 on:** March 31, 2008, 07:55:08 AM »

Quote from: Gordon on March 31, 2008, 06:58:18 AM

Quote from: Hope on March 31, 2008, 06:40:30 AM

since Rad said that my Kreem coat in my orange tank was the source of all that white milky stuff we found in my carbs

I still don't buy that theory. The Kreem liner would come off in flakes or even large sheets, but it wouldn't just dissolve in the gas.

Actually Kreem does dissolve with some gas ...depends on the additives.

mustangcar · « **Reply #24 on:** March 31, 2008, 08:13:51 AM »

well i did the electrosis method ,what it does it reverses the rust ions, rust flows frrom the negative charged tank to the positive charged rod inserted in the tank all the rust sticks to the rod like a magnet,,you don't submerge the tank,you fill it up with the solution( arm n hammer washing soda)and stick the metal rod,,again the whole tricky part is to make sure the rod does not touch any part of tank only the solution(its not easy),, the phos acid method is probably just as good,never tried it,i know that sh** works wonders on rusted bolts ,personally i would just look for another tank,

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Author Topic: Can this be salvaged???? Updated 4/10/08 (Read 6708 times)

fuzzybutt