Topic: wheel bearing retainer

[mdl91881]

so i was putting the rear wheel of my 78F back together and the new wheel bearing retainers wont screw in they go about 1/3 of the way and stop.  I really dont want to strip these out.  Any tricks out there?

[mustangcar]

i have to deal the the bearing retainers myself on a k8 750, i heard the threads strip very easily,have to be careful when drilling out those four punched stakes,i have never done it before but will soon,just came back from the Honda dealer today and like always they ordered me the wrong part they ordered me two of the carrier bearings instead of  two the wheel bearings,had to drag the wheel in to show them they kept insisting they were the right ones,what dumb f-ks,i knew i should of ordered them somewhere else, maybe chase the threads clean with a pick,not sure how to clean up those threads,good luck

[mark]

I offer the following for your consideration.....

Somewhere in my mess of oddball tools is a device that I got from a fellow who specialized in Mercury outboards. Apparently, some models had the nasty habit of blowing the rear bearing retainer out of the gearcase. Merc parts weren't cheap - gearcase housings being a great example of not cheap - and he would try to save them when possible. I couldn't get the tool to pose for a pic, so there is a drawing posted. It is turned from mild steel with simple grooves to match the thread pitch, and would not be too difficult to replicate. The tool is to be chucked in a drill and the grooved(NOT THREADED) head is used to 'massage' the buggered threads back to shape. I'm pretty sure he recommended a slow speed and plenty of oil.

I think something like that could work in this situation.


Happy trails.

[bistromath]

Steel retainer in aluminum hub, you can usually slowly screw it in and back it out repeatedly, advancing just a little each time. Use a light oil when you're doing this.

[Steve F]

I offer the following for your consideration.....

Somewhere in my mess of oddball tools is a device that I got from a fellow who specialized in Mercury outboards. Apparently, some models had the nasty habit of blowing the rear bearing retainer out of the gearcase. Merc parts weren't cheap - gearcase housings being a great example of not cheap - and he would try to save them when possible. I couldn't get the tool to pose for a pic, so there is a drawing posted. It is turned from mild steel with simple grooves to match the thread pitch, and would not be too difficult to replicate. The tool is to be chucked in a drill and the grooved(NOT THREADED) head is used to 'massage' the buggered threads back to shape. I'm pretty sure he recommended a slow speed and plenty of oil.

I think something like that could work in this situation.


Happy trails.

The tool you describe looks like a "thread mill".  Used in CNC machining centers to thread internal or external threads,
 http://www.sct-usa.com/millhelp.asp

[mark]

The tool you describe looks like a "thread mill".  Used in CNC machining centers to thread internal or external threads,
 http://www.sct-usa.com/millhelp.asp

Interesting link there, but, this is not a cutting tool. It has no teeth.

Like I said, the back end would pop out of the gearcase. When that happened, the threads in the housing would often get rolled over. If the threads blew out altogether, the case was junk. If the threads were still there but buggered, repair could be attempted. If this attempt involved removing metal, the new nut would not hold torque, pulling out the remaining threads. Sometimes the case could be saved by reforming the threads.


I'd probably just end up cutting away the little dimples with a dremel anyway.

[Steve F]

The tool you describe looks like a "thread mill".  Used in CNC machining centers to thread internal or external threads,
 http://www.sct-usa.com/millhelp.asp

Interesting link there, but, this is not a cutting tool. It has no teeth.

Like I said, the back end would pop out of the gearcase. When that happened, the threads in the housing would often get rolled over. If the threads blew out altogether, the case was junk. If the threads were still there but buggered, repair could be attempted. If this attempt involved removing metal, the new nut would not hold torque, pulling out the remaining threads. Sometimes the case could be saved by reforming the threads.


I'd probably just end up cutting away the little dimples with a dremel anyway.

OK, I gotcha.  Interesting concept and could work quite easily on aluminum hubs.  If you find a tool like that and give it a try, take some photos and post a little story?  Pretty please?
Steve F

[754]

Just use a tap of correct pitch to clean out the threads,

round and round..

[bryanj]

First question is is he bearing all the way in?