Author Topic: body work question  (Read 799 times)

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Offline hymodyne

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body work question
« on: April 04, 2008, 03:14:39 PM »
can I apply spot putty (glaze) over an enamel primer? I bondoed my tank to cover the badge mounting holes and discovered after three coats of primer that I had a wave or two in my tank. I don't want to apply it there if it won't adhere...

hym
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Offline hymodyne

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Re: body work question
« Reply #1 on: April 04, 2008, 03:53:33 PM »
...never mind, I got my answer

hym
"All things are ready if our minds be so."

Offline paulages

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Re: body work question
« Reply #2 on: April 04, 2008, 03:55:00 PM »
as i understand it, glazing putty is usually meant to be used after priming for the exact type situation you described. i've used it many times that way, but that's with shooting catalyzed primer.
paul
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1976 CB550 (590cc) road racer
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Offline hymodyne

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Re: body work question
« Reply #3 on: April 04, 2008, 04:42:30 PM »
Many thanks, Paul.

I just went and picked up a tube.

BTW, what IS the final horsepower of your 550 650 hybrid?

What sprocket set up are you using on this project?

hym

"All things are ready if our minds be so."

Offline paulages

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Re: body work question
« Reply #4 on: April 05, 2008, 01:29:34 AM »
Many thanks, Paul.

I just went and picked up a tube.

BTW, what IS the final horsepower of your 550 650 hybrid?

What sprocket set up are you using on this project?

hym



won't know until it's done...  ;)  i started another thread recently about final drive ratios. i'm going to start really high, something like 16/45, and then gear down from there if it's too tall.

i'd recommend against the "no mix" varieties of glazing putties in the tube--i don't know the specifics, but i've been advised against them by people in the know. evercoat makes a good lightweight glazing putty that needs hardener like the filler does.
paul
SOHC4 member #1050

1974 CB550 (735cc)
1976 CB550 (590cc) road racer
1973 CB750K3
1972 NORTON Commando Combat
1996 KLX650 R

Offline mystic_1

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Re: body work question
« Reply #5 on: April 05, 2008, 06:48:06 AM »
I've used the no-mix type of glazing putty many times with no problem.  In fact, I didn't even know there was such a thing as glazing putty that took a catalyst.  Glazing putty is intended to be so thin that I can't see it's hardness as being a huge factor.  Use glazing putty for VERY small defects like scratches or pinholes.  For anything larger I step back to the bondo then re-prime.

mystic_1
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twisted bastard

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Re: body work question
« Reply #6 on: April 05, 2008, 06:26:43 PM »
mystic is right, glaze putty will eventually crack if put on to thick. It is for pin holes and scratches. I would think If the tank wasn't damaged ( dent) then once you put bondo over the badge area to fill it in, all you should have to do is sand then block, block, block and more blocking at an angle. Most waves come from not blocking enough. However, we don't have your tank here so its only a guess.  But I would suggest spraying a light skim coat of black primer and this will show you where your work  needs to be done while blocking.