Topic: How have you removed your front fork oil seals?

[76 cb550]

This is how I did it

Go to biglots or the hardware store and buy a 2" c-clamp...I'll provide a pic if you don't know what they are.  Next get a thin but wide piece of wood 1/4"or biggerX2-3" should work.

Put the metal bit of the c-clamp behind the steel ring of the seal and put the wood between the seal and the bolt of the c-clamp.  Now turn the bolt on the c-clamp and even the most persistent seals should come out.

Cost clamps 2 3" and 2 2" for $5  wood had a piece laying around.

anyone got a trick that is even easier than this? 

Just for fun and to educate people on how NOT to remove a front fork oil seal this is what I used for the four hours before I thought of the c-clamp trick.

1.pb-blaster
2.wd-40
3.5 different screwdrivers (innefective)
4.2 needlenose pliars (bad idea)
5.1 set of channel locks (bad idea)
6.1 set of vice grips (bad idea)
7.1 set of regular pliars (bad idea)
8.1 pocket knife (innefective)
9.1 heat gun
10.1 bowl of really really hot water
11.1 rubber mallet (bad idea)
12.1 set of ANGLE PLIARS (worst idea although it got the best grip)
13. oh and 1 table vice =)

[jjwaller]

Believe it or not, the best thing I have tried and used...successfully,
is a motorcycle tire iron!  You know the Motion Pro type.  The slightly
hooked end works great to grab the seal while prying with the bar.
obviously, protect the top of the fork tube!
Works for me

[Johnie]

I used the slider method like Canuck and it worked like a charm.  Came right out and these were the original 1970 for my KO.  But I have to admit, that C-clamp thing sounds like a nice way too.

[Jinxracing]

I used the slidehammer method too, but it was even easier...I left the tubes in the triple clamps while I did it (front end securely supported off the ground of course).

[mattcb350f]

Removed the snap ring. Put the forks in a vise (wrapped with a rag) removed snap ring and used the fork tube as a slide hammer. The lower bushing hits the upper bushing which drives out the seal.

That's worked for me too when forks are designed that way. The 350F fork tubes just slide out past the seal and a slide hammer tool is what I had to use.

I just held the fork in one had and worked the slide hammer with the other and got it out. Didn't want to scratch it in the vise 

 Matt.

[mystic_1]

Yes, the 'slidehammer' method works on early CB750 forks, but I don't think this can be done on later models, and on the smaller bikes.  I may be wrong though as I've rarely disassembled forks on anything but my K0.

mystic_1

[mattcb350f]

Yes, the 'slidehammer' method works on early CB750 forks, but I don't think this can be done on later models, and on the smaller bikes.  I may be wrong though as I've rarely disassembled forks on anything but my K0.

mystic_1

You're right 

I've done it on my Husqvarna and the little XL80. Tried to do it first on the 350F and nearly fell on my a$$ when it flew right out 

[BobbyR]

I had to dig mine out of my 78K with a screwdriver and a piece of wood. Use the old seals to help tap the new ones in place.

[Terry in Australia]

Yeah, the "slidehammer" method is only good for K0 - K2 forks with nice bronze bushes sitting "proud" of the fork tubes.

I like the "C" clamp method, I'll try that next time, but normally I just use a big mother fuucking flat tipped screwdriver with a "pad" of aluminum plate under it, which protects the tops of the tubes and also works as a pivot.

No fork seal can withstand the power of me and my mother fuucking screwdriver!  

[batdan]

I soaked the hell out of mine in wd40 overnight and then heated them in the oven at maybe 400 or so degrees. Then I put it them a vice and the seals came out easily with a screwdriver. I did this to avoid messing up the top of the fork tubes with a screwdriver.

[BobbyR]

No fork seal can withstand the power of me and my mother fuucking screwdriver!  

I went to Sears, Snapon, and checked several catalogs. I could not find one of those screwdrivers. A couple of people got down right indignant. Go figure. Must be a local Aussie product.   

[mattcb350f]

Found one for ya Bobby...



 Matt.

[78 k550]

I like the "C" clamp method, I'll try that next time, but normally I just use a big mother fuucking flat tipped screwdriver with a "pad" of aluminum plate under it, which protects the tops of the tubes and also works as a pivot.

No fork seal can withstand the power of me and my mother fuucking screwdriver!  

That's how all mine happen to pop out.

Paul

[76 cb550]

I nearly broke a standard run of the mill screwdriver on mine...atleast it bent a really long way.  That was when I decided to try something different.

[Terry in Australia]

No fork seal can withstand the power of me and my mother fuucking screwdriver!  

I went to Sears, Snapon, and checked several catalogs. I could not find one of those screwdrivers. A couple of people got down right indignant. Go figure. Must be a local Aussie product.   

Let me know when you're doing your seals again Bobby, and I'll loan you my big motherfuucking screwdriver, but shipping might be expensive, it's a really big motherfuucker!

[BobbyR]

Thank ya Mate. A friend in need is a friend indeed!

[ralt12]

A mother screwdriver, really liberal WD-40, and a bit of heat, and they'll come right out, easier than you think. I couldn't budge them with anything until I applied the heat. For installing new seals, I used a bit of PVC pipe--I think it was 1 1/4", coulda been 1 1/2" . Goes in easier than it comes out.
This was on a '75 CB550F.

[rbtconsultants]

BUMP   

+1 for C-Clamp method. Popped seals out good. No heat, no muss, no fuss.

Bob

[gregimotis]

1.pb-blaster
2.wd-40
3.5 different screwdrivers (innefective)
4.2 needlenose pliars (bad idea)
5.1 set of channel locks (bad idea)
6.1 set of vice grips (bad idea)
7.1 set of regular pliars (bad idea)
8.1 pocket knife (innefective)
9.1 heat gun
10.1 bowl of really really hot water
11.1 rubber mallet (bad idea)
12.1 set of ANGLE PLIARS (worst idea although it got the best grip)
13. oh and 1 table vice =)

Add (for me)

14. Propane torch (good for scorching alum)
15. Carb dip (ineffective)
16. cursing
17. drinking
18. dremel cutting wheel (wrong angle)
19. dremel diamond bit pointed grinder (wrong size)
20.  ASK for help on SOHC4.net - grovel a little. (sorted in fifteen minutes)

[rangelov]

I went out to my shop immediately after reading this thread.  I clamped my fork slider vertically into a vise by the studs using soft jaws.  I got my 1" C-clamps and a piece of 3/16" X 1-1/2"  X 12" steel flat stock.

I inserted the clamp tip under the seal.   I put the flatstock between the screw and the top of the slider.  Even though the clamp is 1",  it is wider than the seal opening.   The clamp was cocked in use.   I tightened the C-clamp screw and the seal started to move up.  I repeated this several times at different points to raise the seal evenly.  Wow, this was easy and didn't damage the slider or seal surface.

On to the next slider.  Now, this isn't working too well.  This seal is really stuck.  The C-Clamp is slipping off the outer edge of the seal canand then the seal can is bending.  I got PB Blaster and sprayed it liberally in the retaining ring groove area.  This seemed to help just a little.  I remember heat helping.  I got my oxy-actylene welding (not cutting tip) torch (less heat) and heated the outside, until the seal area was too hot to touch.

The seal was still stubborn.  It came out slowly.  This is key, it came out because I turned the C-clamp slowly with moderate pressure and the heat heat opened the seal bore slightly.

I  had my K8 forks apart for several years because I didn't know how to remove the seal without damaging the sliders.  My bike is a K4.  I had to buy replacement forks because I damaged one of my original sliders beyond repair.

I found this thread and it was very useful.  Thanks to 76 cb750 for coming up with an elegant solution.

Regards, Dimitar

[Untold]

I just did this on my 550.  I was worried that it was going to be a hassle, because I checked out the forum extensively before I tackled it.  I was surprised how easily they actually came out.   Tire iron and a rag to put under it so it doesn't mess up the fork leg.  Easy peasey

[BeSeeingYou]

   Seal puller in the lower part of the first photo. $7 at HF and a couple of whacks with a hammer.  The copper pipe thing is something I made up to fit the head of the damper bolt.  Used a pipe clamp for putting the new seals in with something round to match the diameter of the seal.
    The one seal was really stuck as you can see how distorted it got during the process.  A few more whacks on that one.   That same puller works great for removing steering bearing races too.