Topic: CB750K4 - new updates 11 Oct 2024 bike not charging - need help!

[pddpimp]

I still think that you have yourself an awesome cafe there Andy.
But one question...

Where are the wheelie picts? 

[andy750]

Steering head bearings were replaced with All Balls kit in Feb 2010. New front fork cushion rubbers as well.









to this...



Andy

[andy750]

Swingarm bushings replaced (thanks Hondaman)



and frame kit installed (thanks Gordon for the kit and Alistair great job on the welds!)









Now reassembly...

Andy

[sangyo soichiro]

Andy, you asked about putting a link to your build thread in your signature.  Here's how:
Below is what's in your signature now. To put a link to this very thread, I highlight the "CB750K4," click the url icon (), copy the link to the thread, and paste it before the "]" of url].  The only other thing you need to do is put in an equal sign like so, url=http://...].

The complete 'template' for doing this is this (leaving off the outside '[' and ']' - otherwise you wouldn't be able to see it):

url=http://www...]the words you want to appear in your signature[/url
(and make sure you put a [ in front, and a ] in back.
 

Here's your modified signature:
CB750K4: 2001 - Boston - Mexico; 2003 - European Trip ; 2004 - Easy Rider Trip LAX to New Orelans (to Boston) (www.easyridertrip.de).
CB750K2  - road racer
VStrom DL1000 2003 - snow plough
CB750K6: 1992 - Trans-USA (sold)
CB750F2: 1996  - London to Paris to Normandy to Alsace (sold)


P.S. Don't forget to check the spelling.   

[andy750]

Ooooh excellent! Thank you so much for doing that!

much appreciated!
Andy

[andy750]

Last night I hooked up my new harness, re-installed the gauges, horn and headlight bucket and ran out of time to position the coils around the harness. Making progress getting it back together.

Any good tips for getting rid of rust on exhaust collars (early type)? I tried the Coke method, vinegar (over night soaking) and now have them sitting in nitric acid...no dramatic changes so far. I have hydrochloric acid, acetic acid (yeah I know more vinegar) and a host of other nasty chemicals in the lab.....Anyone got a better rust-removal method? Will be painting them this weekend....

thanks
Andy

[Alan F.]

Any good tips for getting rid of rust on exhaust collars (early type)? I tried the Coke method, vinegar (over night soaking) and now have them sitting in nitric acid...no dramatic changes so far. I have hydrochloric acid, acetic acid (yeah I know more vinegar) and a host of other nasty chemicals in the lab.....Anyone got a better rust-removal method? Will be painting them this weekend....

I cleaned mine on a wire wheel, then heated them up with a propane torch before painting them while hot. The paint cures on contact and leaves a very hard finish (smokes a little too...)
-Alan

[andy750]

Thanks Alan I used the wire wheel method last night and then painted with silver paint once I got home tonight....will see how they look in the morning.

cheers
Andy

[traveler]

I still think that you have yourself an awesome cafe there Andy.
But one question...

Where are the wheelie picts? 

Hell ya!  I want to see CB750 wheelie pics!

~Joe

[andy750]

How'd your collars come out Andy?
[/quote

Very nicely and I painted the handlebars black at the same time. Exhaust has been mounted :-). Ill take a pic tomorrow...hoping to get the front fender/front brake/controls all wired up.

cheers
Andy]

[andy750]

Re-installed the exhaust (HM341s) last week and so was just needing working carbs...while my recently purchased Ebay set are being cleaned I got some spare K3 carbs (thanks to Ben/Azuredesign) with 105 mains/40 pilot and installed on the K4..then installed some new Yamiya OEM fuel line (cheaper than Western Hills Honda!) and then went for a test ride - first since October and first since new swingarm bushings and new steering head bearings.

Bike ran ok but when I got back after 5 min it was smoking from...front end? Brake had been dragging.. rotor was very hot. So removed the caliper and found a lot of crap in the caliper and the piston has some pitting. I am sure I bought this piston in 2004 or 2005 so a little disappointed its already needing replaced...hoping Kevin makes phenolic pistons for the 750 otherwise an order to DSS.....I cleaned all the crud out and installed a new piston seal....now just waiting for a piston and hopefully that will be it.

[andy750]

First thing - front brake is back on track and HUGE thanks to Kevin in Houston, Texas for sending me the phenolic brake piston and truly excellent service. If you are needing a brake piston go to Kevin! Super nice guy.

Id had been test riding the bike and felt the steering was heavy and would hear a clunk sometimes at stop lights. After chatting with Johnie I checked on the tightness of the top notched nut as when I re-asembled after the putting in the alls ball kit I made a point of NOT over-tightening it.

I loosened the upper triple tree and then checked the top notched nut on the steering head - yep it was loose...so tightened it up and then tightened the upper clamp, put the bars back on and then made sure the bars still fell to one side - yes they did. Ok so far so good.

I also checked the front tire pressure -first time since winter...oops too low! 20psi! So I upped it to 32psi (BT-45s) and tonight test rode it - wow what a difference! Bike accelerates very nicely, smooth rear end due to Hondamans swingarm fix and no more clunk in the front end. At least not in the 4 miles I rode tonight. And I was breaking hard at ever stop light on purpose to see if I could feel the clunk -nope! So far so good!

Front end has a slight shake at 50 mph but this may be due to the heavier fork oil I used - 15W. Its not too bad and only slightly noticeable that even if I take the hands of the bars they do not shake...so see how this works out. Very happy so far! Next thing - install the engine guard and change to a 17t front sprocket.

cheers
Andy

[andy750]

Front bearing was gone on the front wheel...replacement bearings should arrive today and hopefully by the end of the week wheel will have new bearings...

..in the meantime discovered an oil leak originating from alternator gasket or shifter gasket.,..sigh..replacements on the way...

[Johnie]

Front bearing was gone on the front wheel...replacement bearings should arrive today and hopefully by the end of the week wheel will have new bearings...

..in the meantime discovered an oil leak originating from alternator gasket or shifter gasket.,..sigh..replacements on the way...

Or maybe the grommet is leaking where the stator wires pass through the cover. That grommet is located between the stator and tranny gasket. Been there done that...

[andy750]

Thanks Johnie for the reminder to check that grommet -on my list. Just did that on the K2 engine.

cheers
Andy

[andy750]

This week:

Saturday
MikeR replaces the front wheel bearings  - new retainer, dust seal, o-ring as well.

Sunday
Install front wheel

Monday:
Replaced the new front brake caliper seal as I had nicked it ever so slightly when installing Kevins phenolic piston - always remember to use brake fluid to coat the piston before installing! Anyway got a new seal lubed everything up and it all went in smoothly. Bled the brakes and left overnight with brake lever pulled in to get any residual air out the system...in the morning brake was nice and firm and piston was retracting nicely. New brake pads also help a lot

Tuesday
Went for a test ride and after about 10 miles parked the bike and went for a coffee. Came back and battery was almost flat when tried to start it with e-start. No problem...kickstart and ride home. I had changed the voltage regulator the week before so it wasnt that. Lucky I had also ordered a new rectifier so put that in and stopped for the day while I charged the AGM battery. Regulator and rectifier were from Oregonmotorcycles - very easy to deal with and recommend them.

Thursday
Fired the bike up  -no smoking from left sidecover so that was good . Went for a 20 mile test ride that included a blast on the highway - all felt stable at 80 mph, 6000 rpm  . I was pushing hard to see how the bike felt at speed and how the new swingarm bushings, steering head bearings, firmer fork fluid and new front wheel bearings were working out....pretty good so far . Ii also wanted to feel how much wind I was getting with the new K0/K1 bars as the riding position has changed and I am sitting a little bit more forward on the seat - have to say its pretty good as well.  Lights were all blazing away including indicator lights (these had been very dim the other night with the old rectifier.

Overall result- came back grinning! Finally the bike is ready to ride....

Whats left to do? Well there is still a slight clunk when coming to a stop and I noticed some vibration then as well coming from the bars so I think I still need to re-check the steering head bearings for tightness....will update when I get to that...not this weekend though as off hiking.

cheers
Andy

[traveler]

I'm getting that same weird sensation in my front end.  Seems the only remedy is tapered roller bearings.  Probably need to put a set of All Balls bearings on the list, huh?

otherwise, sounds great!

~Joe

[andy750]

I'm getting that same weird sensation in my front end.  Seems the only remedy is tapered roller bearings.  Probably need to put a set of All Balls bearings on the list, huh?

otherwise, sounds great!

~Joe

Thanks Joe. I did replace with All Balls bearings so perhaps they just need tightened once again...would make it third time....

[srook]

Sometimes that clunk actually comes from the caliper pivot pin.  It sounds and feels like the steering head bearings are loose but it is actually the caliper mount hitting the pin.  Try pushing the caliper towards the fork leg and see if you get any movement.  It doesn't move much but just enough to clunk and feel it through the bars.
Scott

[andy750]

Thanks Srust for the tip and I did check the caliper bolt and all seems fine. I did find the left side fork pinch bolts were on the loose side and tightened these up and clunk decreased a little but too soon to tell on the short 4 mile ride to work...there is still some vibrations there when braking hard to stop.

Anyway new problem...

I rode home on the K4 from work taking the longer way  - temps were 93F. On the way home the bike died three times due to the battery that wasnt charging....it had discharged itself on the way into work that morning. Dim lights and poor blinkers were symptons. Thank goodness for kickstart! Anyway it cant be the rectifier or the regulator as replaced these with new ones in the last 2 weeks (Oregon Motorcycles).......next on the list? The AGM battery is no longer holding charge  - wont reach full charge on the battery charger - same with my other AGM battery   -  or the alternator is not doing its job.....too hot to work on it last night...

Any thoughts on how to test? May just go and get a new battery in any case - Ive been buying the same brand of AGM battery from Advanced Auto for around 4 years now but I am beginning to suspect the quality or....the alternator is not working...have a spare alternator if it comes to that....

thanks
Andy

P.S. Perhaps worth noting...sometimes when turn on the ignition there is a "pfffffft" type sound like the bike is sighing....not quite sure why this happens....anyone know?

[ofreen]

You can do a quick test on the charging system just by shining the headlight on the wall and observing if it gets brighter as you rev the bike up.  This will work even with a crappy battery.  You can use a multimeter to see exactly what it  going on.  You should get around 12.8 volts with a charged (healthy) battery with the bike turned off.  At idle it probably will show around 12.5 or so.  Increase the revs and the voltage should increase with the revs.  By 3500 rpm you should be getting at least 14+ volts.  If this is happening, your charging system should be good to go.  If not, that's where I'd start looking.

If the charging system checks out, then the battery isn't holding up its end of the log.  You should be getting better life from them than you are.  I've been using the Westco AGMs in my bikes since 2001.  The first one in the 750 went 7 years.  

[andy750]

Thanks Greg for that. I plan to test tonight with multimeter. Where do you buy the Westco AGM batteries? I have been buying Powersports AGM and so far not impressed!

Much appreciated
Andy

[ofreen]

I buy them locally at the best motorcycle shop in the world, Big Twin Cycles, but I know there are mailorder sources.  Here's a link to their dealer finder.

http://www.westcobattery.com/dealer_search.php

[andy750]

You have to love the easy fixes....

So last night I get home with a multimeter from work and get to work on the K4....

1. Check battery in the bike at idle - 12V
2. Increase rpms to 4000 rpm - 12V  
3. Ok check the alternator...remove the white plastic connector...oh that was easy....too easy I think?
4. Resistance in connector checks out ok

Mmmm now I remember...when installing the new harness I found it difficult to get airbox back on as harness-alternator connector were just reaching each other and no more.....it couldnt be could it?....clipped them both together ensuring a tight fit...switched on the ignition  - wow I have a neutral light again!

5. Check battery in the bike at idle - 12V
6. Increase rpms to 4000 - 5000 rpm - 13.8V  

So lesson learned...always make sure your alternator is connected to the harness!! Id been running on battery power only (about 20 miles range).

But why is the neutral light connected to the alternator? I am guessing its because it shares the black wire?

Rode to work this morning on the K4- great day for it!

Now to sort out the squeaky front brake (new pads!)....silicon time...

cheers
Andy

[ofreen]

Good deal.