Topic: The Daily Grind > '75 CB550K1 Daily Cafe (Half-Caf?)

[shameless 550]

Welcome.

Just purchased my first bike, a 1975 CB550K1.
Now to tear into it.

The goal of this project is to transform this bike from where it is now to a fully customized daily driver with cafe styling and performance.

As good riding weather is here, I will be focusing on noninvasive maintenance and tuning until the weather changes.

Here is the bike as it stands now.

[shameless 550]

Currently degreasing and cleaning up everything I can scrub. WD-40 and Simple Green make me happy.

ISSUES SO FAR:

*Noticed the bottom left exhaust (#2?) weld is blown out where the exhaust meets the header. (Anyone in NOVA handy with a torch?)

*Chain is absolutely filthy, and while cleaning it noticed a decent amount of rusted links. I'm not sure how big a deal this is, but I'd much rather have a new chain and sprocket set than try and scrape 33 years of grit and grime off a rusted chain sitting with a sprocket set with worn down teeth. What size should I be looking at?

*The side covers look decent. RS has loose badging, and a little lighter paint than the rest of the bike. LS looks great, but is missing the top right tab.

*I'm heading to pick up new air and oil filters today, and change the oil after everything gets all cleaned up.

Anyone have any issues, concerns or advice with regards to power washing a bike? No washing the engine or carbs, but can I spray down the oil cooler and transmission, brakes, chain, and frame?

[CBGhia]

If you are getting new sprockets look for a set for a 520 chain.  that way you can get an "O" ring or "X" ring chain.  The stock 530 sprockets cannot run an "O" ring chain because it rubs the case. It will save you a TON of maintenance.

[shameless 550]

I decided to stay with the stock 530 100 link Non O-ring chain and stock sprockets at least for now.
Since the weather is supposed to be bad for the next week or so, I pulled the pipes off to get ready for the new chain.

I drained all the oil out, and am cleaning up the oil filter case before putting it all back together.

With the pipes off, and the oil drained, it would be pretty easy to drop the oil pan and ensure the screen is clear and get all the grit out.
It seems that every step forward leaves one more thing to do, and to learn how to do. This is awesome.



Anyone have an effective way to clean all the built up carbon in there?

With the pipes off, its a lot easier to notice the rust spots and holes.
Can I just use JB Weld or should I start looking at new pipes?



I kind of dig the whole 4 into 2 pea shooter exhaust, but are there kits for a CB550?

EDIT*   (Stupid Question Time) Do I have to drain the gas tank before I remove it? Everything I've read says just turn the petcock off, disconnect the lines, and then take the tank off. Am I an idiot? I don't want to spill gas everywhere. Thanks

[Spikeybike]

you need a head gasket , just a little FYI

add ther are several different aftermarket pipes for the 550 , Kerker, Mac, Yoshimura(good luck finding a yoshi though)

[TwoTired]

Once the stock mufflers start rusting through, the metal is too thin for a lasting repair.

You're going to need new compression gaskets before putting headers back on the bike.

The gas tank can be removed with gas in the tank.

If you don't now what can be safely sprayed, don't power wash.  Don't use phosphate soap with a pressure washer either, as that get into the electricals and it starts corroding connections/connectors.


Cheers,

[kghost]

Yup looks like a leaky head gasket......

Don't get discouraged bikes run for years with leaky head gaskets....

As far as the carbon build up in the exhaust ports ....I wouldn't bother cleaning it out.

Doesn't hurt anything and its right back after you run the bike any length of time.

That one muffler is shot.

Try Ebay and join the rest of us in our addiction

[.RJ]

*Noticed the bottom left exhaust (#2?) weld is blown out where the exhaust meets the header. (Anyone in NOVA handy with a torch?)

A guy in Falls Church did some welding work for me - if you want, I can pass his contact info along.  But if the pipes are rusty there's probably no hope for them.

[shameless 550]

Head gasket is going to have to wait until the winter.

New spark plugs, exhaust gaskets, and sprockets should be in soon.

Today I'm going to try and clean up the pipes a bit, throw a little JB weld on them and see if they feel like holding together until I can afford a new set.

Also planning on dropping the oil pan while the pipes are off, and see if there is any sludgy crap in there which is just getting in the way.
Anything else I can do while the pipes are off and oil pan is dropped?

Also going to check out some parts bikes this saturday, if anyone in NOVA is interested in tagging along. Bikes are in Southern Maryland. 1973 CB500, 1976 CB550, no titles, but are rolling chassis with motors that turn over. 100$ a piece, but I'm sure that's negotiable.

Anyone have an empty trailer lying around?

[Javier]

It seems that every step forward leaves one more thing to do, and to learn how to do. This is awesome.

 I think that's what turns this from hobby to obsession. Enjoy. - Javi

[shameless 550]

I spent today cleaning out the oil pan and screen filter. The filter seemed pretty clear, but the oil pan had about 33 years of crap at the bottom....not anymore.

The oil pan and filter cover are almost done soaking in their degreasing bath, along with the header clamps.

I also cleaned up the exhaust pipes, and they look in fair condition. one pipe is clear, the other three have varying levels of rust, but I think its fixable, at least for a daily driver. Hard to believe that the second one from the right was the scummiest of the four.
I think JB Weld may do the job for a bit.

Still waiting on the sprocket set to arrive...tomorrow the rear wheel comes off.

[shameless 550]

I'm starting to get carried away.

The tank came off, and I've been cleaning up the oil pan and filter cover. This weekend is going to be nuts.


After cleaning the oil pan, I noticed these little white spots, any idea what they are and how to get rid of them?

[shameless 550]

Work has had me all over the country, so it's been a while since I have been able to work on the bike, let alone ride it.

The aluminum oxide (white spots/powder on aluminum) comes right off with a little white vinegar.

I've added some aftermarket 4 into 2 pipes, which are wide open. I know I need to sync the carbs, and probably re-jet them.

I also replaced the plugs.

Tank is clean and rust free.
I have the new chain and sprockets to install this afternoon, as well as new rear brake shoes.

The two screws on the left crankcase are stripped and will not come out. I'm taking a torch to them tonight...

After the new pipes were added, with new gaskets, the bike idled a little lower than normal, but sounded great. I'm replacing the air filter this afternoon with a UNI filter, which may help that even out.

I took her for a little ride around the neighborhood, but had to kick it to start, and she died about ten minutes into the ride. I realized that the headlight was out, but after a few minutes of sitting, she turned over and I was able to bring her back to the garage.

I MM'ed the battery and it was showing 12V with the bike off, but I couldn't get the bike to start at all. With the ignition on, the battery was showing 3-4V.

I know the electrical systems are tricky, and was thinking that I may strip it down to incorporate an HID headlight conversion kit, and relay out the wiring harness.

Can anyone recommending an HID light set, or relays for the harness itself?

Pics will go up tonight

[shameless 550]

I forgot to mention the worst part.....

Before the battery died I noticed this horrible chain rattle coming from the engine. This was while the bike was idling, parked, so it shouldn't be the primary chain, Right?

Hopefully someone here can tell me how to adjust the cam chain, in a way that makes more sense than the service manual?

Cheers

[EdB]

my bike makes a funky little rattle when it is idling low. usually when its so low its about to stall. also, these bike dont like to run very much before they get warmed up

[TwoTired]

Be aware that the 550 Charging system makes 150 watts of power @ 5000 rpm and about 40-50 Watts at idle.

A stock bike draws about 120 watts whenever the ignition switch is activated and the stock headlights are on.
The battery drains a idle RPM.  If you put power hungry headlights and other electrical modifications on the bike, the battery will drain faster at idle, and may not even charge at peak RPM.

The primary chain is aways attached to the crankshaft.  If the crankshaft is turning, the primary chain is moving and it has no tensioner.   For the primary to run smoothly, all the cylinders must fire with the same impulse strength.  This means Carbs vacuum balanced and all tune up items adjusted to peak/ or identical values.

Why does the service manual confuse you about the cam chain adjust?  Anyway, there have been a couple threads about cam chain tension adjust in the forum that were quite detailed.  Rather than retype them in for you, might you just search for these?

Cheers,

PS. The stock cb550s ran fine when cold.  Just need to hold the throttle open a bit during warm up.   But, after they are modified...

[shameless 550]

Guys,

I'm ready to replace the front and rear sprockets, and drive chain, and I'm just two screws away...
Two nasty, dirty, stripped, greasy screws...

How do I replace this screw?  The one beneath it is just as bad. This is at the top of the left side crankcase cover.

I know I only made them worse, but the two screws on the right side of the left crankcase were bad, and still came out in one piec

[shameless 550]

I also cleaned my tank. Here are the Tools, Before, and After pics.   Safety First. The tank looks much mo betta.

[shameless 550]

Here is the bike as she stands now... This is the 'good' side, as the other side is full of tools and curses thanks to the two stuck stripped screws on the crankcase cover.

[kpier883]

An impact driver might get those screws out.  I have gotten some out that were almost that bad.  The banging and the torque and the same time can sometimes surprise you.

[TwoTired]

I'm ready to replace the front and rear sprockets, and drive chain, and I'm just two screws away...
Two nasty, dirty, stripped, greasy screws...

How do I replace this screw?  The one beneath it is just as bad. This is at the top of the left side crankcase cover.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=37530

[bzr]

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=37530

Very recommended. I have that same set and it's brilliant.

[shameless 550]

Thanks TT and BZR, after the purchase of the impact drive, the two screws put up a fight that lasted less than 30 seconds. Properly applied torque can do amazing things.

With the stubborn bolts out of the way, I was able to remove the Crankcase cover.

It wasn't pretty.

Look at your own risk. Just a nasty combination of oil, grease, mulch, wood chips and 33 years of scum.

[shameless 550]

After cleaning out the crankcase, removing the rear tire, mounting the two sprockets and preparing to mount the new chain, I ran into an issue.

One of the four bolts on the rear wheel hub won't accept the nut. The tongued washer goes on fine, and the other three nuts are on securely, but the fourth bolt is stripped.

Is there anyway to fix this without changing wheels/tires? I have a parts bike to raid for a new rear wheel hub, but then I have to remount the new brakes and remount the tire.

What is the easy, safe fix which allows all four rear wheel bolts to be securely fastened?

[Spikeybike]

get a tap and die set ... but the die your after is a fine thread , might have to do a little googleing to find it

cant recall the the size