Topic: Dead Man Switch on a cb750?

[Geeto67]

Anybody ever wire a dead man switch on a cb750? any suggestions? Local track is requiring me to have one on my street bike so I can compete in street class brackets. do I need a closed circuit to keep the electric starter?

[mystic_1]

Never done this myself but seems it would be fairly straightforward to wire in a deadman switch in series with the kill switch?  Pretty sure you'd need a NC (normally closed) type switch, in other words, the switch should open when you die.

mystic_1

[super pasty white guy]

This seems to be pretty easy:
http://www.mpsracing.com/products/MPS/hc01.asp

Instructions:  http://www.mpsracing.com/Instructions/MPS/Tether_Kill_Switch.pdf

spwg

[1080]

I use a tether from water jet skis. They sell at any place that sell personal water crafts.  There are two types (normally open and normally closed ), you want the one that measures closed when the tether is in. Then just follow your bikes kill switch wiring and splice in.

[754]

You mean like what you are using in your avatar..

[mystic_1]

you want the one that measures closed when the tether is in.

That's a much better way of putting it than I did, I debated whether a switch that measures closed with the tether in would be considered NO or NC, I guessed Normally Closed under the theory that the rider being on the bike is the "normal" state, and the rider leaving the bike would be abnormal lol. 

mystic_1

[bikehenge]

Geeto,
I used a Pingel model 620, it cost $80, fits 7/8" bars and passes current in the "rider attached" condition.  I also tried a $20 Emgo unit.  I was not confident in the switch mechanism (less positive than the Pingel), it seemed possible that biker movements other than actually falling off the bike could cause the bike to cut off.

Using an additional switch means there are now 3 switches in series with power to the ignition: key, dead man, and kill.  I chose to use a relay so that the 3 switches were in series on the control side of the relay, and the power to the ignition takes a more direct route from the battery:

battery:fuse:relay:ignition
instead of
battery:fuse:key:kill:dead man:ignition. 

Probably not necessary but it seemed like a good idea at the time plus I heard a fellow racer complaining that his biken was cutting out intermittently and he suspected his dead man switch.

Another thing I did was wire it so that I could bypass the dead man switch by changing wire connections around at "connection central".  My 750F has a special connector box mounted to the frame, if you have a K bike "connection central" may be in the headlight bucket.

Probably more than you needed to hear, but I hope some of this was helpful.
BTW: pics of the switch here (scroll down): http://www.thepeanutslab.com/3hm.html

[Geeto67]

The bike I am going to use for the track has a non functioning kill switch that the previous owner bipassed so I am just going to wire it in to the original kill switch setup so I only have the ignition and the deadmans switch on the bike.

Thanks for the help guys. The pingle seems a little more than I wanted to spend on this bike but all things considered I think I will try it out since it is so highly recommeded.

[troppo]

G`day geeto
I`ve missed this thread till now, but thinking on it why not wire a headphone jack into the kill/run switch.
You could wire the heaphone plug as a solid link and hook it into the run/kill switch so when it gets pulled out the circuit is broken and the bike dies.
Hope this mate
Cheers mate
Troppo