Topic: CB550 Rebuild Project for Beginner

[Koonendez]

Thanks for the tip...I kinda would like to restore and leave the factory paint on the frame as is removing the rust and grime only. Some areas of the bike especially under the seat have been untouched and the paint still seems to be phenomenal even though the bike was stored outside and has dealt with Chicago weathering.

Would steel wool scratch off some of the factory paint? Should I stick to scotch-brite pads? Would sandpaper be less abrasive and if so, what grade?

[kevio]

If you want to get rid of and prevent rust but still want to preserve the paint you can get rust converter just about anywhere.  It converts the rust into a sort of primer that you can then paint over.  You will still want to sand it a bit with some scotch-brite or fine steel wool before painting though.  Either way you are going to lose a little paint to ensure you remove the rust.  You don't want to be painting over active rust.  If you have the frame stripped down why not just send it off to be blasted and painted or powder coated?  If you are on a budget you can simply clean the bad areas and then rough everything up and do a spray can job on it.  Many here have done it with amazing results.  Plus, if you get a scratch or rust spot later it's much easier to touch up than if it were powder coated.

[thrownchain]

As to your ? about the chain, replace it, it's inexpensive and if you replace the sprockets, you'll want a new chain anyway.

[jevfro]

If you just want to clean up the oxidized paint on your frame (if the rust isn't too far along) you can use a rag w/ some Penetrol.  Gives it a sheen again like new paint.

Your chain looks like mine did.  I was on a major budget and it was within tolerances (see below) so I just cleaned it up w/ a steel brush, soaked it in oil (I like gear oil, if you can heat it a lil' thats even better), checked sprockets for wear and examined every link to make sure it didn't bind or stick. 

My Chiltons says the chain shouldn't stretch more than 1/4" over a one foot section if you compress it, measure, then tension it, measure.  If it's boarder-line or you have the extra $150 for parts just buy a new one! (should do sprockets too).

[Koonendez]

Thanks for all the help! As much as I'd love to keep this a very low budget process, figuring I'll be moving slow through the project I might as well restore the bike to run at its very best. I'll probably lose many of the parts and replace as much as I need to. I won't sacrifice performance for anything. As far as the looks of the bike, there is the department I'll be doing as much DIY work and keep it from getting costly.

I did a lot of work this morning and I'll repost tonight or tomorrow with pictures. I began today with a really quick clean of the frame using car wash soap and some dish-washing soap for grease.

Then dried and used some WD-40 with a steel wool and although I did get some progress I might go buy some sand paper. Seems like some of the corners are impossible to remove with steel wool. I'll try some heavy grade sand paper and do a spray can paint job.

Any grade suggestions for sand paper?
And spray can brands? Primer? Finish coat?

[Koonendez]

Update: Some pictures of my teardown process. It's amazing how much rust and other imperfections you find when you actually take down everything on the frame and take a closer look. I'm taking my frame to my buddies house in a few weeks along with my tank for some restoration. Tank will be stripped with Aircraft stripper and frame will be sanded and painted.






Any good recommendations with frame paint and coatings? Brand names? Same with tank? I plan to use POR-15 for the inside

Also, I was just curious...I'm going to set some time aside while I wait to do the frame and tank to clean my engine. Any ideas of what to lay the engine on while cleaning? Something other than the moving blanket that it's currently resting on

[Koonendez]

Probably a stupid question...but, is it a terrible idea to strip and re-paint my gas tank(spray can job) before I use POR-15 process on the inside of the tank.

Off topic-Keep in mind the inside of the tank isn't horrible. I'm only going to clean and seal the tank for the longevity of the bike project assuming I'll be keeping this bike for as long as she runs...forever

[loan $hark]

Probably a stupid question...but, is it a terrible idea to strip and re-paint my gas tank(spray can job) before I use POR-15 process on the inside of the tank.

I would say yes, leave the exterior paint until the very end.  This way if any POR15 gets on the outside by accident it will be on the "old" paint and not a big deal to strip off.  Getting it on the new paint would be terrible and cause for a repaint of the whole tank again. 

[dustyc]

I would however take care of pulling any dents before you line the tank.  If you line it, then pull dents, you'll disturb the lining.

[Koonendez]

Thanks for the tips. I don't think there are any dents on the tank as far as I can see. I'll have to take a closer look tonight.

As for the wheels, I did a little search and found EastCoast Wheels who I might send my wheels over too after I get them cleaned up for new spokes and trueing.

I've been taking a look at Doug_id's rebuild and it's inspiring and uninspiring at the same time. I feel like I'm never going to finish this project.

I was going to wait a couple weeks and take my frame and swingarm to sand and strip rust off so I can paint the frame. Now I'm having second thoughts and am considering to just simply drop it off and have them sandblasted and powdercoated.

Any ideas of how difficult it would be to do it myself? Sand off rust and spray paint from a can on the frame? Do I need to completely remove the paint that is on there right now? How many coats of paint will it take for a strong finish?

[loan $hark]

Sounds like you have little experience painting metal.  I'd say the highly irregular surface of a motorcycle frame is not going to lend itself well to sanding, except if you're doing some spot touch-ups.  Sanding by hand will take forever and you'll probably go thru way too much paper as it gets caught up and torn on seams, brackets, and other sharp edges.  I would personally never consider sanding a stock frame down (maybe a custom tube frame like on a mountain bike) and would opt for sand or bead blasting.  Aircraft or other chemical paint strippers would be a messy, toxic, but viable option as well.

Also, you'll want to consider your end finish.  Have you decided on either paint or powdercoat? I'd look into the pluses and minuses of either and go from there. 

Given your level of knowledge on some of this stuff I would not recommend taking this bike down to its bare elements and back again on your own - keep things bite-sized and within your abilities for now. I'd farm out work as appropriate and act as more of an "assembler" and get a handle on working on the maintenance and mechanics overall as a complete motorcycle.   Hand the bodywork to someone and tell them to paint it a certain color.  Same with the frame.  Send the wheels out to be built by someone else. Of course all this is going to be limited by budget but by having to become an expert on painting, an expert on spoke wheel assembly and truing, an expert on polishing metal, an expert on engines, etc. you run an extremely high risk of losing motivation and abandoning your project. 

[Koonendez]

That's the best advice I've heard so far. Thank you.
My mind is telling me that I can accomplish all these tasks and I've very pumped to do some of them.
But you're absolutely correct. I guess I'll have to put the project on hold for a little bit to save up some money and get the frame and swingarm sandblasted and powdercoated.

I think I can manage stripping the paint off the tank and repainting the tank and side panels. I'm having enough trouble cleaning the engine as of right now so that should keep me busy while i save up some money.

[Klark Kent]

and if you need a good example of how to be just an assembler there are american chopper reruns on all the time. 

[magnus72]

Honestly, powdercoating to me is pretty inexpensive overall. The end results are good, and it saves so much time. Finding a good powdercoater is another matter entirely as some will do the prep and others not. Some will charge extra for any other work involved. Most just want to blast, dip, and coat and thats it.

[Koonendez]

Ok...need some help here.

Cleaning this engine wasn't as breezy as I had hoped. I tried using Simple Green at first without much success and moved on to Engine-Brite which seems to be working really well. I'm having trouble at cleaning the engine mainly due to the angles that I'm working with. I wish there was some type of engine mount that elevates the engine and makes all sides accessible, but I'm cleaning the engine on the ground.

I got to the left side and opened up the crankcase to find this:




Any suggestions? Having trouble removing the sprocket also as I can't seem to get any leverage holding onto the sprocket from turning as I'm removing the bolts.

Also, are these forks re-usable? Just a nice clean, re-lube, and are new seals necessary/recommended even if there is no leak?


Thanks...any help is appreciated

[TwoTired]

Mineral spirits  (paint thinner) cleans the chain lube spooge well.

Put the trans in gear to remove he front sprocket.

Forks are reuseable, assuming the internals are ok.

[Koonendez]

Thanks TT. I actually took some time cleaning off the forks and they do look like they're in great shape. Bottom end of the forks(i believe the aluminum parts) are kind of scratched up, but I can live with that.

I'll try to mineral spirits for the goop.

Can some of you list things/items you stuffed your exhaust ports and intake ports with while cleaning the engine. I'm worried about water or the Engine-Brite getting inside while cleaning and especially water as I rinse off the solvents.

Nothing I can buy(a rack/mount) for the engine to be elevated while cleaning and rebuilding? Having trouble cleaning up the engine case while its sitting on the ground

[mattcb350f]

Nothing I can buy(a rack/mount) for the engine to be elevated while cleaning and rebuilding? Having trouble cleaning up the engine case while its sitting on the ground

I mounted my engine to an engine stand by making some brackets out of steel.



..of course, you need an engine stand to do this, worth the money IMO for doing a rebuild

 Matt.

[freezingprocess]

Can some of you list things/items you stuffed your exhaust ports and intake ports with while cleaning the engine. I'm worried about water or the Engine-Brite getting inside while cleaning and especially water as I rinse off the solvents.

-I've seen guys here use those rubber chair leg things for the exhaust ports. I think Doug has pics of that on his project page.

My quick solution was to cut off the finger of a latex glove and shove a wadded-up paper towel into it; -tie it off, then cram that into the exhaust port. You could probably use a balloon too.

For the intake ports, I just doubled-up sandwich bags and zip tied them on.

Good luck......
        -Chris-

[dustyc]

If you don't have an engine stand, you could just make a quick and dirty table out of 2x4's and plywood  2' wide x 2' deep x whatever height is comfortable for you standing or sitting.  If you have to buy a sheet of plywood for the job, I'd make the bench big enough to spread out on.  I like 2'x6', not too big or too small.  The time and small amount of money will pay you back in the form of a happy back and knees. 

I wouldn't krylon or rustoleum the frame -or anything else on the bike unless that's the statement you're trying to make.  If you search for paint threads, you'll find why spray cans don't hold up as well(with some exceptions).  I ordered some POR Hardnose paint to try on my frame, but it requires spray equipment.

When it comes to a hobby like these bikes, do what makes you happy.  Of course, you won't know what makes you happy until you try some things.  If you have more money than time, farming out the work and assembling parts may do it for you, I like welding, grinding, fabricating, painting, troubleshooting, tuning, etc, so I like to do as much as possible.  -Which has been everything including mounting my own tires.

[Koonendez]

If you don't have an engine stand, you could just make a quick and dirty table out of 2x4's and plywood  2' wide x 2' deep x whatever height is comfortable for you standing or sitting.  If you have to buy a sheet of plywood for the job, I'd make the bench big enough to spread out on.  I like 2'x6', not too big or too small.  The time and small amount of money will pay you back in the form of a happy back and knees. 

I wouldn't krylon or rustoleum the frame -or anything else on the bike unless that's the statement you're trying to make.  If you search for paint threads, you'll find why spray cans don't hold up as well(with some exceptions).  I ordered some POR Hardnose paint to try on my frame, but it requires spray equipment.

When it comes to a hobby like these bikes, do what makes you happy.  Of course, you won't know what makes you happy until you try some things.  If you have more money than time, farming out the work and assembling parts may do it for you, I like welding, grinding, fabricating, painting, troubleshooting, tuning, etc, so I like to do as much as possible.  -Which has been everything including mounting my own tires.

Thanks..I've decided to go with sandblasting and powdercoating the frame, swing arm, top and lower triple trees, and possibly the center stand. As for everything else, I've got plenty of time on my hands and more interest in learning some of these processes so I'll try and tackle most of the necessary jobs myself.

I'd definitely invest in an engine stand, but I'd have no resources in welding some brackets together out of steel.

As of right now the project is a halt due to finances. I've got a quote for roughly 300.oo for the sand/powder job. In the meantime I'm going to go pick up some mineral spirits and clean off the goop under the crankcase. I'll definitely use the latex with paper towel idea for the exhaust ports. Thanks to freezingprocess.

[Koonendez]

Question:

I decided yesterday I was going to take apart my carb's, but the first instructions I came across on the Shop Manual(the most accurate manual for 77-78 550 Carbs) told me to remove a return spring. I don't see a return spring on the carbs. Does anyone have a picture of 77-78 550 carbs that they could take showing their setup? Where is this spring supposed to be located?

[BlindJoe]

The return spring is the one next to the idle adjuster screw

[Koonendez]

thanks kottkehead...

I guess the PO had fiddled around with the carbs and neglected to place the spring back on. Is this part still available at Honda Parts in dealers? Z1? Dennis Kirk?

[Koonendez]

Wow. It's been a long time since I've not only posted here, but since I've had any time for thought on my project. For the past few months I've hit a brick wall.

Update: Bike is still bare frame, parts all over my garage, it's freezing with 1 foot of snow outside in Chicago

Question: Considering the fact that I'm extremely broke on the bike budget and the ridiculous cold in my garage. What are some things I can bring inside and work on in the house without pissing everyone off?

Also, I read someone post who carefully took apart the gauge clusters to replace the faces with white replacements that were printed from a computer. Any knowledge???

Thank you

PS I really miss her in one piece. If i could do it all over, I'd have her in running condition as much as possible and done the project piece by piece. oh well..