Author Topic: Belt Drive Conversion. Yes I did search. :) (Read 19165 times)

754 · « **Reply #25 on:** May 09, 2008, 08:53:23 PM »

What width belt??

The measuring I did looks like a 1inch may fit, moreso with the split sprocket.

paulages · « **Reply #26 on:** May 10, 2008, 12:20:36 AM »

Quote from: 754 on May 09, 2008, 07:54:50 PM

That is not the problem.. getting it on at all..is the problem..

It is obvious many of you have not taken a hard look at the actual cavity around the sprocket shaft..

i will tomorrow, as i have a couple apart at the shop. from memory, i thought the problem you were describing is in the small amount of space between the cases and the engine cover that sits in front of the sprocket cover (shifter assembly cover or whatever it's called). now that i think about it, that space is obviously defined by the cases or that cover wouldn't seal.

HondaMan · « **Reply #27 on:** May 10, 2008, 10:25:07 AM »

Quote from: 754 on May 09, 2008, 08:53:23 PM

What width belt??

The measuring I did looks like a 1inch may fit, moreso with the split sprocket.

754:
If you're asking about the Gates tests...they used a .75" (3/4") wide belt for the 750 Honda and the smaller Twins. The belt could handle 150 ft-lbs. of torque, far more than they bikes can generate. The 750 Honda had to run the tests with the front sprocket cover removed, as the sprocket hit the cover in several places, and they ground off the cases a little in the area directly in front of the sprocket as well. It was a real tight fit.

kpier883 · « **Reply #28 on:** May 10, 2008, 01:14:27 PM »

Will stomping the rear brake produce more than 150 foot pounds of torque? I would think that clutch popping and brake stomping would deliver the greatest "hits" to the belt...

cbass*gxc · « **Reply #29 on:** May 10, 2008, 01:53:40 PM »

Ya paul I thought the same thing. I thought he was talking about the clearance between the cover and the sprocket. I was #$%* I dont need that.

It seems if you have the tools and the knowledge it may be done, but for a novice with no tools, it may be a little tough and a lot of money. I would say about the only way you could get it to work fairly easy would be on a custom hard tail frame. Hopefully I will get to make one and if I do I will take this in to consideration. Because though it would be expensive, it would be cool to see a Honda with a belt drive.

kpier883 · « **Reply #30 on:** May 10, 2008, 02:00:28 PM »

There is a KZ440 belt front sprocket for sale where you can see a picture of the front sprocket at eb@y. Item = 350058117328

I don't know how to copy the picture and paste it here.

cbass*gxc · « **Reply #31 on:** May 10, 2008, 02:05:40 PM »

I am going to go look at mine right now.

kpier - If you run Firefox-->right click, then copy image location, and then paste it in between the

If you run IE--> right click, properties, copy and paste the address, then paste it in between.

754 · « **Reply #32 on:** May 10, 2008, 07:24:35 PM »

Spline looks pretty close, if you knew Major dia of spline you could scale it from the pic...

cbass, I dont see where frame makes any difference, other than length, you have to remove swingarm to install..

754 · « **Reply #33 on:** May 10, 2008, 07:53:42 PM »

You guys are simply not grasping that the pulley has to be installed with belt on.. or have enough room to the outside with pulley installed.... so simply put you need about 1 3/4 " of width to do that (or more)... now go look at the cavity..

You are limited in dia.. after about 2.7 ish it becomes iffy.. and larger dia, less chance of snaking on belt and pulley together..

Dont worry about the guard.. least of the problem..

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #34 on:** May 11, 2008, 12:50:45 AM »

I really don't know why anyone would bother doing a belt drive conversion, you can buy attractive plated chains and sprockets nowadays, and if you don't want chain grease on your tire, buy a new O ring chain and just use white chain wax, and you won't have a problem.

If Gates couldn't do it with reliability and durability, I doubt anyone here could. Just my 0.02, of course.

754 · « **Reply #35 on:** May 11, 2008, 07:33:45 AM »

As smooth as a new chain can be,
The belt would be like that or smoother for 50K miles or upwards. during that time, perhaps a few adjustments.

Belt is lighter, very little chance of taking out the cases if it breaks. Never needs oiling.

In short a smoother ride and quieter than you have know.

Plus some of us like doing something that has not been done before, just because... ...

kpier883 · « **Reply #36 on:** May 11, 2008, 08:47:29 AM »

Other ideas? Could there be a similar size sprocket and/or belt from an auto application. Here is a mazda timing belt picture...

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #37 on:** May 11, 2008, 05:39:37 PM »

Quote from: 754 on May 11, 2008, 07:33:45 AM

As smooth as a new chain can be,
The belt would be like that or smoother for 50K miles or upwards. during that time, perhaps a few adjustments.

Belt is lighter, very little chance of taking out the cases if it breaks. Never needs oiling.

In short a smoother ride and quieter than you have know.

Plus some of us like doing something that has not been done before, just because... ...

Seems like there's a lot of "some of us like doing something that has not been done before, just because" talk, but as usual, not much action Frank, ha ha!

kpier883 · « **Reply #38 on:** May 11, 2008, 06:37:16 PM »

This looks interesting - A Kawasaki 800 that was converted to belt drive - http://www.ipass.net/wb4iuy/scootaa.html

Apparently this place does conversion kits, but they mostly for late model cruiser bikes:

http://www.scootworks.com/shop.cgi/page=partsh.htm/SID=PUT_SID_HERE

kpier883 · « **Reply #39 on:** May 11, 2008, 06:59:42 PM »

Here is one for the do it yourself types. Again on a different bike, but interesting never the less. Basically, he cut down the front chain sprocket and bolted the belt sprocket to the chain sprocket to take care of the problem of fitting the sprocket to the output shaft. This also has part numbers for the belt and the pulleys.

http://vulcan.wolfcrews.com/800_belt_mod/

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #40 on:** May 11, 2008, 08:36:42 PM »

Geez I'm surprised at how heavy those belt sprockets are, 11.5 pounds! I guess the belt would add another pound or two maybe, I wonder what a chain and sprockets weighs?

754 · « **Reply #41 on:** May 11, 2008, 10:16:32 PM »

Front ones are usually steel or iron, rears are alloy on the HD,s

Front drives on HD had very good wear & life with Hard Anodized Aluminum.

If I had to I would make a front sprocket, wouldnt take any longer that the f!cking 120 tooth one I built for a bicycle with my STIHL chainsaw motor on it..

Kpier, we were talking about making it 2pce, may be the only way to get it on there..

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #42 on:** May 11, 2008, 10:21:43 PM »

Quote from: HondaMan on May 09, 2008, 08:43:48 PM

Gates made 2 sets of toothed sprockets for every bike, at great cost. The only one that was NOT a 1-piece sprocket was the CB750K3 countersprocket, because the extra-wide sprocket could not be installed without pulling the engine (frame is in the way). That one was 2 pieces, and reportedly took over 3 hours to install. After just 8 hours of testing, the non-roundness of the 2-piece c-sprocket tore up the belt, and the CB750K3 was cast out of the project.

Re-inventing the wheel? $:-\$

ieism · « **Reply #43 on:** May 13, 2008, 03:16:22 PM »

I've seen belt drive kits for classic racebikes in a magazine. There must be some benifits if people are fitting these to their pricy old racebikes right?
Light weight, smoother power transfer, less strain on the gearbox. I would look up the company that makes them, but my girlfriend is sleeping already and if I turn on the light to look for a magazine she'll kill me.
Remind me later.

Gregorymoto · « **Reply #44 on:** May 13, 2008, 03:38:17 PM »

Mmmm The rear sprocket should be easy to workout. You can build a floating carer.
The front sprocket would be the hard part.

What comes to mind off the bat would be to machine another floating carer for the front that would bolt on to the belt sprocket.

If you have the right tools and the time and can do the math i think it could work.

PS. i did not read all the responses to the post sorry if I'm being redundant.

ieism · « **Reply #45 on:** May 14, 2008, 01:20:11 PM »

I've found it, they are called Q.P.D. Belt drives. Do a google search to find out more....

Terry in Australia · « **Reply #46 on:** May 14, 2008, 11:49:20 PM »

Fifty bucks says no one here will be successful in doing a CB750 belt drive conversion that works as well as a stock chain and sprockets.

754 · « **Reply #47 on:** May 15, 2008, 05:47:09 AM »

Thats hilarious..

If drives were ignitions, the belt would be the Dyna,and the chain the magneto..

Of course if there is major work involved, everyone runs, unless it is served up in kit form..

cbass*gxc · « **Reply #48 on:** May 15, 2008, 07:05:07 AM »

If I decide to build a hard tail frame for my bike then I will try it. With a custom frame it would be easy to change out the belt because there would be no more swingarm. If I had the tools to do it, I would have already started playing, but I dont.

Soos · « **Reply #49 on:** May 15, 2008, 07:08:51 AM »

Quote from: Gregorymoto on May 13, 2008, 03:38:17 PM

Mmmm The rear sprocket should be easy to workout. You can build a floating carer.
The front sprocket would be the hard part.

What comes to mind off the bat would be to machine another floating carer for the front that would bolt on to the belt sprocket.

If you have the right tools and the time and can do the math i think it could work.

PS. i did not read all the responses to the post sorry if I'm being redundant.

Be careful what you say....

I might just get a hair one day and take you up on that $50.

l8r

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Author Topic: Belt Drive Conversion. Yes I did search. :) (Read 19165 times)