Hwy speeds are up from 55 to 70, so that may be the what's causing the discrepancy.
You've hit on part of it, Dusty.
![Wink ;)](http://forums.sohc4.net/Smileys/default/wink.gif)
My Fairmont Station wagon (circa 1979, daily driver, hopped-up some, about 100,000 miles on it since then) gets 22-24 MPG at 55 MPH, 19 MPG at 75 MPH. In city driving, it gets 20-21 MPG. Notice what speed does to it?
My 750, with saddlebags, tourpack, full Vetter fairing and lowers, gets 40-42 at 70-75 MPH. At 60 MPH, it pushes 47. These figures are with 18/48 gearing, which is too tall for 55 MPH riding, because the MPG drops off then. I switched to 17/48 gearing last year because of increased city driving, and the 55 MPH mileage finally went up to 45 MPG.
I have a 1967 Ford LTD 2-door fastback (3800 lbs. empty weight) with the 390 cu. in. 2-bbl "H" engine. In town, if not too much idling, 14-15 MPG. On the hiway at 65-75, it gets 18-19 MPG. But, because of tall gearing and a special 1966-67 MX tranny torque convertor, at 55 MPH it gets 14 MPG! So, a lot of it is in the powertrain engineering.
Many of you probably don't remember the "MPG" series of Fords; the Pinto MPG, Mustang MPG and some others they made in the last "gas crisis" of the mid-1970s. Those cars normally got around 17-18 MPG, but the special MPG package boosted it to 24-25 MPG, easily. It lost about 4-5 HP in the process, but most of us never missed it, because we're so city-bound anyway. At least the A/C still worked!
![Grin ;D](http://forums.sohc4.net/Smileys/default/grin.gif)
I wish I had one of those today.
There are 3 things you can do to boost your mileage when driving:
1. Accelerate gently.
2. Look 'way down the road, driving "ahead" of where you are, even ahea of the guy in front of you, and anticipate what's coming up, back off early. The intent: coast as much as possible and don't wiggle that right foot.
3. Stop using drive-thrus: 20 minutes of idling will drop an entire gas tank's mileage by 1-2 MPG, more if your engine is >200 CID.
Check those tire ratings: most tires can take 35-40 (or more) PSI. Every 2 PSI you add above 30 reduces rolling friction by 5%, so the MPG (and performance) increases quick. Most cars from 1985 to present have tires that are too wide: when you buy your next set, step narrower, and if you have a stick, go the next step taller. If you have an auto trans, stay with the same OD. Either one will net you up to 10% better MPG, with a corresponding performance increase from the lesser unspring weight. Every 10 lbs of tire weight you lose adds 1 more HP to the ground: some of those nice mag/aluminum wheels are worth the $$ !