Topic: Spark plug disaster

[750K2]

TT - yup..it was indeed a membrane that we based our calculations on.  very astute!  i've admired your posts ever since i got on here for their clarity and depth of explanations. you know your sh*t.  nonetheless, i still disagree in the direction of expansion of the hole even in this case.  i base this not only on a measly calculation from years ago but some practical experience as well.  for example, heating manifolds to withdraw bolts, pump casings of rather large sizes and casting complexity (nowhere near our precious honda heads though) In large diesel engines heat is often used to enlarge the cylinder wall to slip liners out of cylinder borings and one doesn't go around heating the entire body of a diesel engine.  in fact, it's probably one of the few ways to get one out.  sticking to practical applications i have yet to see anyone apply 'cold' to a casting to slip a stuck thread but then again, i certainly am open to another technique.  it's certainly common to toss cylinder liners in a freezer prior to slipping them into place.
 
so let's consider your cooling idea.  it has merit.  there was another thread on here for removing dents using a slight amount of heat and some liquid CO2.  perhaps spraying the plug with the liquid CO2 would shrink the plug and break those jammed threads?? certainly less obtrusive than blasting an aluminum head with heat.  I noticed that the key to the CO2 was to hold the can upside down so that the liquid came out instead of gas.  the liquid has MUCH more cooling properties than a gas (change of phase and all that).  certainly worth a try if the liquid could be applied to just the plug body. 

like you, i've never had much faith in 'easy'outs.  heat has been my friend.  and you can believe that i will now and forever more apply anti-seize to my spark plug threads.
frank

[chrislib]

Anti-sieze is great stuff, just be sure to keep it off of the porcelain and/or the electrode as it will conduct electricity and cause a missfire.

[kghost]

Anti-sieze is great stuff, just be sure to keep it off of the porcelain and/or the electrode as it will conduct electricity and cause a missfire.

Thats a fact.

I have never successfully removed a broken plug with an easy out btw.

Least not just an easy out.

I have chipped them loose with a chisel then used the easy out.

Conversely I have drilled them down to nothing then pulled out the remaining steel of the plug.

Like unwinding a big spring.

But it will fill the chamber with chips.

Which as a plus are magnetic 

Best have a steady hand.

[750K2]

you guys are scaring me so badly with the ugliness of broken plugs that i'm going to pull my plugs and goop 'em with anti-seize.  seriously.

[fuzzybutt]

i just removed a broken off spark plug from the motor on our daughters geo tracker. it wasnt easy but it did finally come out. ended up having to heli-coil too.

[cb750k7]

I have a box of unlabeled black graphite grease,  can i use it on my spark plugs and SS bolts or should I buy the "special" antiseize with extra ingredients?

TNX

[bryanj]

Black graphite is not ideal, one of the high temperature copper ones (Copperslip is one trade name) are far better, best to apply with a 1/2 inch paint brush rather than finger

[Steve F]

I've been using the LOCTITE brand nickel based antiseize compound with good results especially on anything that comes in contact with aluminum or zinc, or any steel-to-steel bolts which prevents rusting together.  I wouldn't use it on brake parts though just because I don't know how it would react to brake fluid and may possibly contaminate things.

[TwoTired]

I have a box of unlabeled black graphite grease, can i use it on my spark plugs and SS bolts or should I buy the "special" antiseize with extra ingredients?

TNX

If the grease is petroleum based, no.  Generally speaking, a petroleum product on spark plug threads, turns to glue at the temperatures seen by the spark plugs.

I've been using a spark plug anti-seize from Champion for the last 20 years, or so.  It is especially important where the head material is softer than the spark plug base material.  If it sticks and doesn't break off, then it takes the aluminum with it during extraction.

Cheers,

[cb750k7]

Thanks.

[TwoTired]

My question is why does the brush top that comes with anti sieze not reach the bottom of the container?

You are supposed to shake the contents vigorously prior to use to put what has settle out back into suspension, and that puts plenty on the brush for each spark plug.

Do you know the difference between a solution and a suspension?

[TwoTired]

Sorry, I thought you were talking about the Champion product I mentioned.

Anti seize is like oil, in that there are different types and different applications for same.

I guess your question was actually rhetorical, since you don't mention a product name or what it's intended purpose was.

In that case, the brush doesn't reach the bottom specifically to make you uncomfortable and allows them to sell product more frequently.

That better? 

[tsflstb]

I used the square, fluted extractors that you hammer in and dig into the broken threads.  They worked like they should have, but I think the amount of stuckness is beyond what they're made to do.  I was able to get some torque on the broken threads.  I broke two 1/4" drive ratchets (Craftsman and MAC) before I went and got a 3/8" socket to fit the extractor. 

It still held with the torque from a 2' long breaker bar with another 18" or so cheater bar on that.  I put most of my 200 lbs. on it for a few seconds repeatedly and it wouldn't budge.  I'm pretty surprised I didn't break the extractor off in there.



After that the extractor started working like a cutting tool and just cut off little shards of steel.  Even the impact wrench didn't do anything.  I tried, but I think it's best to just pull the head now.  I hope you see better results.