Topic: engine case paint

[casanova]

ok so i'm re building the 750 engine and i wanrt to repaint it as close to possible to the original color , i went to pep boys and pick up a can of dupli color brand p[aint in aluminum , but it turned out real shiny like a soda pop can , can any one point me to a source , oh and how about a source for crank bearings for a k6 ?

[kghost]

Duplicolor makes Engine enamel.

The label reads "Engine Enamel" then in small letters below that "with Ceramic"

Also says "500" and "Dyno heat tested" on the label

Aluminum DE1615



Its an exact match color and shine wise to my 75 CB400F

I haven't compared it to anything earlier

Hope it helps.

[Magpie]

The Duplicolor Engine Enamel 1615 is dead close to what's left of the paint on my sandcast 750 engine. I've repainted it and it looks great!
Before & after, sorry don't have a pic of the same part.

[casanova]

great , thanx guys i use 1200 degree which was 1605 shinny = ugly

[fuzzybutt]

heres my 750k motor with that 500 degree with ceramic silver.

[bunghole]

heres my 750k motor with that 500 degree with ceramic silver.

Do you have to heat cure it?

[mystic_1]

Yes, the paint needs to be heat cured in order to get any real durability out of it. 

For example, I've been doing paint testing by spraying down some spare tapped caps I have with various Duplicolor paints using various processes.  Uncured paint isn't resistant at all to carb cleaner and has poor resistance to lesser solvents like gasoline etc.  For curing I'm using a small toaster oven, 400°F for 90 min or so seems to do the trick.

So far the Duplicolor 1606 High Heat Silver shows the best resistance once cured.  Duplicolor 1613 Black Engine Paint seems to do pretty well also.  For some reason the silver paints seem less chemically resistant, probably due to the pigment used.  Both BCP103 Silver Caliper Paint and 1650 Cast Coat Aluminum seem about equal, both are less resistant to Carb Cleaner than the black, but seem to do OK versus gasoline.  I've tried all paints over both DAP1690 Self Etching Primer and 1612 Grey Engine Primer, both seem to give good results.

For larger parts, just be careful with them until the engine is assembled, then the heat of operation will cure the paint over the first few heat cycles.  I painted my head and jugs about 12 years ago with black duplicolor and except for a brake fluid accident I've been happy with it.  Really I'm just trying to decide on colors for this time around.

I didn't bother to test any of this paint versus DOT3 or anything, btw, because that seemed moot.

mystic_1

[bunghole]

Somebody on another thread mentioned maybe using a heat gun.  I wonder if that would be a good first step to curing just for some additional protection while the part is being handled.

I like the idea of the toaster oven.  That would work well for doing some small powder coating at home as well using something like this:

http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=17540&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=459&iSubCat=460&iProductID=17540

[kghost]

Yes, the paint needs to be heat cured in order to get any real durability out of it. 

For example, I've been doing paint testing by spraying down some spare tapped caps I have with various Duplicolor paints using various processes.  Uncured paint isn't resistant at all to carb cleaner and has poor resistance to lesser solvents like gasoline etc.  For curing I'm using a small toaster oven, 400°F for 90 min or so seems to do the trick.

So far the Duplicolor 1606 High Heat Silver shows the best resistance once cured.  Duplicolor 1613 Black Engine Paint seems to do pretty well also.  For some reason the silver paints seem less chemically resistant, probably due to the pigment used.  Both BCP103 Silver Caliper Paint and 1650 Cast Coat Aluminum seem about equal, both are less resistant to Carb Cleaner than the black, but seem to do OK versus gasoline.  I've tried all paints over both DAP1690 Self Etching Primer and 1612 Grey Engine Primer, both seem to give good results.

For larger parts, just be careful with them until the engine is assembled, then the heat of operation will cure the paint over the first few heat cycles.  I painted my head and jugs about 12 years ago with black duplicolor and except for a brake fluid accident I've been happy with it.  Really I'm just trying to decide on colors for this time around.

I didn't bother to test any of this paint versus DOT3 or anything, btw, because that seemed moot.

mystic_1

I really like your post. Good solid trial and error and great information.



I leave my cases in the sun....On a 100 degree day it seems to cure pretty well.

Longer the set up time the more resistant the paint seems.

[caferacer77]

is there any of these engine enamels, like duplicolor, PJ1 or VHT that are solvent resistant after heat curing?

[kghost]

The magic word is "resistant".....they are all resistant to a degree....

What ya probably want is "proof" ...and none are completely fuel proof.

Eventually with enough gas....they will all get screwed up.



Course a person shouldn't really have gas dripping on the engine....

[mystic_1]

It also depends on your definition of "solvent".  Gasoline is not nearly as aggressive on the paint as carb or brake cleaner, for example.

Also, the old paint on my engine (also duplicolor) was way more resistant than any of the fresh stuff, no matter how much baking I'd done.  You really cannot rush the curing process on these, and most seem to do OK once fully cured.

Finally, no rattle can paint will match the durability of a two part enamel or urethane paint. A notable exception is Spraymax, but that's just a two-part paint in a can.  Never used it personally but it looks promising.  Compatibility with other paints would be an issue if using Spraymax clear over other paints, so proceed with care.

mystic_1

[bunghole]

So far the Duplicolor 1606 High Heat Silver shows the best resistance once cured.  Duplicolor 1613 Black Engine Paint seems to do pretty well also.  For some reason the silver paints seem less chemically resistant, probably due to the pigment used.  Both BCP103 Silver Caliper Paint and 1650 Cast Coat Aluminum seem about equal, both are less resistant to Carb Cleaner than the black, but seem to do OK versus gasoline.  I've tried all paints over both DAP1690 Self Etching Primer and 1612 Grey Engine Primer, both seem to give good results.

For larger parts, just be careful with them until the engine is assembled, then the heat of operation will cure the paint over the first few heat cycles.  I painted my head and jugs about 12 years ago with black duplicolor and except for a brake fluid accident I've been happy with it.  Really I'm just trying to decide on colors for this time around.

I didn't bother to test any of this paint versus DOT3 or anything, btw, because that seemed moot.

mystic_1

Mystic,

I'm going to use the Aluminum DE1615 on my cases and I think I'm going to go black on the fins.  What black did you use?  What do all of you think regarding the gloss level for the black?  Should I go high gloss or low gloss or no gloss?  I've got a few repaired fins and I will be JB welding a few other little "errors" to make it look as clean as possible.  What color do you all think will hide any blemishes the best?  Also...should I used a primer on everything I paint and if so, which one do you recommend?

Sorry for the barrage of questions and thanks for any help!

One last question for those who have done this:  Is it easier to mask and paint when everything is in separate pieces, or is it easier with for instance the head and just connected?

[bunghole]

heres my 750k motor with that 500 degree with ceramic silver.

How has it held up?

[JAG]

[/quote]

Mystic,

I'm going to use the Aluminum DE1615 on my cases and I think I'm going to go black on the fins.  What black did you use?  What do all of you think regarding the gloss level for the black?  Should I go high gloss or low gloss or no gloss?  I've got a few repaired fins and I will be JB welding a few other little "errors" to make it look as clean as possible.  What color do you all think will hide any blemishes the best?  Also...should I used a primer on everything I paint and if so, which one do you recommend?

Sorry for the barrage of questions and thanks for any help!

One last question for those who have done this:  Is it easier to mask and paint when everything is in separate pieces, or is it easier with for instance the head and just connected?
[/quote]

I'm going to try DE1615 on my cases as well.. I just cleaned my cases up real good last time, this time I'm going to go one step further..

As far as the fins are concerned B.H. I used gloss black 1613 on mine and they looked incredible. Not to dull, not to shiny, just enough to stand out. Once dry, i used a sanding block to go around the edges so that the fins edge are nice and shiny but the rest stayed nice and black. Make sense?

I got the idea from one of the "buffing aluminum" threads.. I'll see if I can find pics..

[bunghole]

Mystic,

I'm going to use the Aluminum DE1615 on my cases and I think I'm going to go black on the fins.  What black did you use?  What do all of you think regarding the gloss level for the black?  Should I go high gloss or low gloss or no gloss?  I've got a few repaired fins and I will be JB welding a few other little "errors" to make it look as clean as possible.  What color do you all think will hide any blemishes the best?  Also...should I used a primer on everything I paint and if so, which one do you recommend?

Sorry for the barrage of questions and thanks for any help!

One last question for those who have done this:  Is it easier to mask and paint when everything is in separate pieces, or is it easier with for instance the head and just connected?
[/quote]

I'm going to try DE1615 on my cases as well.. I just cleaned my cases up real good last time, this time I'm going to go one step further..

As far as the fins are concerned B.H. I used gloss black 1613 on mine and they looked incredible. Not to dull, not to shiny, just enough to stand out. Once dry, i used a sanding block to go around the edges so that the fins edge are nice and shiny but the rest stayed nice and black. Make sense?

I got the idea from one of the "buffing aluminum" threads.. I'll see if I can find pics..
[/quote]

I hear you, but I have to hide lots of blemishes.  Some of the "blemishes" are JB Weld repairs.  I'm thinking the higher gloss would hide the errors, but not sure.

[JAG]

BungHole

http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=29518.45

seaweb did it.

looks great.

[bunghole]

Do I have to primer bare aluminum before using the Duplicolor 500 degree?